SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

I really think it's a "flower" issue for some strange reason...I have no trouble with any other red structures/objects. This is my Mates '29 Ford rod and the headtube on my bike, both are spot on for true colours. Red flowers I always need to do some PP...also, flowers absorb the light while other objects like the car and bike reflect the light...from my experience, this makes a big difference. I do a lot of motor sport and other car photography and never have issues with reds or any other colours..

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hassighedgehog Loc: Corona, CA

Reds are the most difficult. A part of it is what you perceive as red. In my vision the car is red as expected to be seen in an interior, while the bicycle tube looks a little orange. The only way to get a generally accepted red is to use the number value. The greatest difficulty is when the red is surrounded by and about equal in volume with a green that is about the same intensity. Then you get an effect from simultaneous contrast. This is where it looks strange, but is not really. In that kind of situation changing the green to a darker or lighter value helps.

SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

The bike tube "is" an orange red, but the colour, as I said, is true..flowers, and other objects, are all different shades of red and present the same issues...I have dark red roses, light red ones and in our Village there are other different shades of red flowers, they all present the same issues...those items that reflect the light show truer than those that absorb the light...

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

Recommend the X-rite i1Studio to calibrate everything to everything. Its a bit pricey, but if the mismatches in color between your camera(s), monitor(s), printer, scanner, projector bother you, then this is a way to fix it.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

From the aforementioned... "NOTE: These images are best quality JPEGs straight out of the camera, at default settings including noise reduction and using the camera's actual base ISO"

What this means is that the images are not anything close to what could be achieved with a fully calibrated workflow...
First and foremost... only shoot in RAW... JPEG images are literally garbage... and lack the ability to achieve accurate color values...

And your eyes will lie to you... learn how to read actually color values (in either RGB or CMYK) especially if working with skin tones... do not rely on your eyes... that is a serious major mistake...

Happy holidays!

robertjsmith

Another newbie question, how do you calibrate a monitor?
Bob

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Bob I use a solution from DataColor
https://www.datacolor.com/photography-design/
Albeit there are a myriad of other excellent products available...

There are also an amazing number of YouTube videos available on many of the popular methods so I won't waste time trying to provide a lengthy dissertation on this.

Keep in mind you would be well advised to work with an image editing tool that is able to take your efforts entirely to the next level. If you are serious about still photography then please look toward Adobe PhotoShop... While Adobe's hobbyist product Lightroom is highly popular on UHH it isn't among commercial retouchers who universally use PhotoShop... There are serious compelling reason's to ultimately migrate to PhotoShop... Again there are a vast number of YouTube videos explaining why...

Hope this helps...
I wish you well on your journey Bob

robertjsmith

Hi Thomas,
Indeed it will young man, and I thank you very much.
Bob

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Choose a different picture control; e.g. vivid. Or customize one.

10MPlayer Loc: California

Did anyone mention using a color wheel? Shoot test shot of the color wheel before you start shooting then calibrate your "keeper" images to the color wheel in PP. I think someone above said the same thing but I had a hard time with the jargon.