prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

some disappointing shots with my d3300 taken from about 8 meters.

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Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

What kind of metering are you using? If you are using averaging, spot metering on the bird may do better.

prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

I am shooting on Auto so not sure what is happening to the metering.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

You should check the manual to review the different metering modes. Auto does not control what kind of metering used. Averaging will basically analyze the entire image.
Best example is people taking pictures of the moon in averaging mode. It averages all the black with a little white and gives you a big white snowball with no detail.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

From the attached image file:

Lens - 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G VR
AF point - center
JPEG quality - fine
Shutter - 1/320
Aperture - f/5.6
ISO - 400
Focus Mode - AF-A
Exposure Mode - Auto
Focal Length - 300.0
Metering Mode - Multi-segment

All things considered, this bird overall, and when the cropped details are viewed, is not "bad". The lighting of this image is challenging for a camera full auto: darker subject in shade against brighter background.

To maintain the lowest ISO, the camera opened the aperture to f/5.6 at the lens maximum focal length at 300mm. Let me suggest two options:

a) If remaining in full auto, select a brighter / well-lit subject against a darker background. The camera will perform better.

b) Begin to utilize the control your DSLR provides. Your lens will perform better around f/8. If you made no other change, try Aperture priority at f/8 and check the image results.

If you wonder how other photographers create many of the images posted to UHH, they are actively managing some or all of the settings on the camera and lens. You can produce better results with this camera and lens by taking more control of your equipment via the P / S / A / M shooting modes and moving off of AUTO.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

When you say disappointed, what specifically is the problem in your eyes?

Did you want razor sharp in the details? See comment above about forcing the camera to use a smaller aperture on the lens.
Did you want a brighter overall exposure? That's a more advanced topic, but the first step is moving off of auto so you can tell the camera what to do.
Did you want more of a zoom? You'd need a longer (more expensive) lens as your P900 provided a 83x optical zoom covering the equivalent of a 24-2000mm lens in 35mm. This image is at the equivalent of 450mm, the maximum capability of the lens on this body.

Please clarify what prompted your purchase of a D3300 as well as your specific issues with this example image.

EDIT

Looking at your older posts, you were getting good results with your P900 in well-lit situations. But, you've given up a lot of "reach" in changing to a DSLR (2000mm "equivalent" vs 450mm). Although the D3300 will shoot in auto, as said earlier, the better results will begin to come from learning and understanding how to use the camera off of Auto.

prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

Thank you CHG for all your advice and comments.My Choice of the D3300 was largely determined by the state of my finances at the moment.I also went onto the internet hand had a look at a whole lot of review and value for money the D3300 seemed at the time to be what I should go for a had also seen a number of sample shots that were satisfying so decided to go for it. My disappointment in the picture of the Dunnock I posted for this excercise was disappointing when I compared it with a lot of the shots I have taken in this very environment, often in poorer light than was available on this occssion. With the P900 I have manged a number of really sharp shots with loads of detail. I had been convinced the bigger sensor in the D3300 was going to significantly improve on what I was doing with the P900 on Auto.

It seems that I need to advance to using A or P as the next phase in my development.The P900 has I may have mentioned before does not give me the sharpness I need after a certain distance despite its amazing reach.

prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Shutter speed is 1/320. Equivalent focal length is 450mm. Minimum shutter speed to stop motion is 1/(actual focal length x crop factor) or 1/(300x1.5) or 1/450 (1/500 is slightly faster... use that.)

Focus point saw the vertical brick surface in the foreground. Read your manual regarding the various auto and manual focusing strategies and settings. Just learning the technique of using a single focus point, placed on what you want sharp, then holding the button half way down as you recompose and expose, will help A LOT.

Skylight is blue; AWB (automatic white balance) read the bright background and set the camera for daylight (or so it appears), making the bird blue. Recording raw images and post-processing on a calibrated monitor can correct this sort of error. If you want to record JPEGs at the camera and get it right, you need a preset white balance in reference to a white balance target placed in the part of the scene that you wish to render with normal (accurate) color.

The bird is underexposed, because the meter read most of the scene for the bright background.

ISO is not listed in the metadata.

The lens was wide open at 300mm (f/5.6). That lens is not very sharp at the long end; most zooms with more than a 3:1 zoom ratio aren't. And most zooms in that price range are soft at the long end, especially when the aperture is wide open. You would be better off to raise ISO by two or three stops and set the camera for shutter priority (you set the speed, the camera sets the aperture). You need BOTH a faster shutter speed and an aperture of about f/8 to f/11.

Using a camera and lens like these, for a scene like this, on full automatic, compromises virtually everything. You would do well to take some courses in photography, or read a book on exposure.

Try not to compare results with this camera and the P900. They have differently-sized sensors. They are designed for different sorts of work. To use this camera and get equivalent crops, would require a 1000mm lens and a 2X teleconverter... prohibitively expensive for all but the most well-heeled pros or venture capitalists!

prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

Thanks burkphoto - I will try and get my head around all that

d3200prime

My advice is to learn to shoot in manual and your shots will improve. Here is a link to a free video lecture on shooting in manual: www.udemy.com/ditch-auto-start-shooting-in-manual/learn/v4/t/lecture/223809?start=0 It helped me a lot and maybe it will do the same for you.

CO

UHH members have given great information.

Here's something you can look at also. Nikon View NX-i and Capture NX-D can show where your focus point(s) landed. I loaded your photo into Nikon View NX-i. It looks like it put one focus point on the brick wall and one on the bird.

Also, check your camera and lens combination for back or front focusing issues. When using the viewfinder, the camera is using its phase detection autofocus. Phase detection autofocus is error prone. There are no focusing errors when using live view mode because the camera is using its contrast detection autofocus. It adjusts the focus until it achieves the highest contrast at the sensor. Take photos using both the viewfinder and in live view mode. Compare the photos side by side and look for differences.

This is your photo in Nikon View NX-i. Your camera placed one focus point on the wall and one on the bird.

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This is the metadata from your photo.

prcb1949 Loc: Ex Zimbabwe - Now UK

Thanks for the advise I am beginning to get a vague picture (excuse the pun) but a long way to go

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

It appears to me that you are receiving random bits of information on many aspects of photography, when in reality you would be far better served by a course of study in an organized way. You are also reading phrases and terms that you are unfamiliar with and if it were me, my head would be spinning by now

Time to stop posting UHH help request topics, and instead read a beginner's book, such as Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, or take an online class. This site is no substitute for the strong foundation you need in order to move forward. I promise you will be less disappointed!

hookedupin2005 Loc: Northwestern New Mexico

You chose a fine camera, which will serve you for many years. However, pulling it out of the box and snapping pictures will not produce the great pictures you expected. Many here have suggested 2 main themes: First, READ THE MANUEL, and second, get away from auto mode. As with any camera, there is a learning curve, and going from a P&S, to a DSLR is a whole different can of worms.