Today I tried to shoot with my Nikon610 24-80mm zoom on a tripod, with multiple focus (distance and close) so I can pan them together in PP.
However, when I rotated the focus ring manually making sure no touching the zoom mechanism, the frame shifted a little bit.
Is this normal?
How can I avoid this to happen?
Does any camera have focus bracketing feature?
Every once in a while the vibration system in my Canon will cause the image in the viewfinder to jump. Rare, but it happens.
Did you have VR on? It's not usually recommended when using a tripod.
(I don't think any manufacturer has a focus bracketing system.)
tenny52 wrote:
Today I tried to shoot with my Nikon610 24-80mm zoom on a tripod, with multiple focus (distance and close) so I can pan them together in PP.
However, when I rotated the focus ring manually making sure no touching the zoom mechanism, the frame shifted a little bit.
Is this normal?
How can I avoid this to happen?
Does any camera have focus bracketing feature?
I thought that when you use a tripod you have to disengage the VR option.
The new D850 has focus bracketing built in. It is great for macros when you need to set multiple micro focus poimts. Like 100 shots for macro or as little as 3 to 4 shots for landscape. It will do it all automatically with auto focus. You just set the focal distance between shots and it does the rest.
Well, well, well. I've read about the built in focus bracketing feature in the new D850 and thought that was a great feature I wished I had as I enjoy some close up work. Lo and behold I read the web page cited in this thread about Olympus having such a system. I recently bought a Olympus PEN F and have been gradually working my way through the extensive menu options but had yet to come across this feature. I had seen the bracketing tab but assumed it was for exposure only. So I got a big pleasant surprise this AM. I read through the article, followed the steps outlined and there it was buried in the PEN's menu tabs. Wahoo. I'm going to give it a whirl soon. This is what I appreciate about this site. I get to learn something useful with some regularity. Thanks for the info.
Thanks folks, it is good to know there are cameras that can do focus bracketing.
But D850 is out of my reach; if I save a dollar a day, it would be out-of-date by that time.
Today, I tried again using my manual 135mm prime lens and the frame didn't seems to shift.
So it is better off to use prime lens per multiple focus bracketing.
I wonder if the D850's focus bracketing feature can merge the sharp portions automatically?
Or is there any software that can do that?
pesfls wrote:
Well, well, well. I've read about the built in focus bracketing feature in the new D850 and thought that was a great feature I wished I had as I enjoy some close up work. Lo and behold I read the web page cited in this thread about Olympus having such a system. I recently bought a Olympus PEN F and have been gradually working my way through the extensive menu options but had yet to come across this feature. I had seen the bracketing tab but assumed it was for exposure only. So I got a big pleasant surprise this AM. I read through the article, followed the steps outlined and there it was buried in the PEN's menu tabs. Wahoo. I'm going to give it a whirl soon. This is what I appreciate about this site. I get to learn something useful with some regularity. Thanks for the info.
Well, well, well. I've read about the built in fo... (
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Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
tenny52 wrote:
Today I tried to shoot with my Nikon610 24-80mm zoom on a tripod, with multiple focus (distance and close) so I can pan them together in PP.
However, when I rotated the focus ring manually making sure no touching the zoom mechanism, the frame shifted a little bit.
Is this normal?
How can I avoid this to happen?
Does any camera have focus bracketing feature?
Olympus and Nikon (D850) have focus stacking.
I think you may be seeing a little focus breathing. To avoid having a problem with lenses that have this characteristic, shoot a wider composition than you want to end up with, stack/merge the images and crop to the center 80%-90% of the image.
Also, PhotoShop and some other Post Processing programs that do merging of Layers, also have an Align function that would be used just prior to merging to keep everything sharp.
Depending on the construction of the lens and elements, lenses will generally change slightly when the focus changes. This is caused by the elements physically moving towards or away from the film plane (infinity = closest, less than infinity = further). If you take the unmounted lens into your hand and change the focus (and as you did, not touch the zoom ring) you will almost certainly see the rear element moving out as you focus it to a closer distance, unless it is strictly "internal focusing". Incidentally, as a result of this, your exposure will also change. While it is not terribly significant, and the internal meter meters the actual light reaching the film plane, you may never notice it. Use a true macro (micro, for Nikonians) or an external light meter, you can actually see the changes in image size as well as exposure. Use a bellows-mounted lens, and you will have to compensate for the exposure, as well as the *size* of the image. Many have mentioned "focus breathing", and while it is not exactly the same thing, it is really close, and has basically the same effect.
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