srt101fan

This subject has been covered extensively in the Main Photography section but I would appreciate comments from the smaller "Pro" community. I'm thinking of the Main section as giving me a "wide angle" view of the issues with lots of opinions but no way of separating facts from fiction. Somebody will say "I use this...and haven't had any problems". That really doesn't help.

Can you provide a more focused, "telephoto" view of what are acceptable methods of cleaning a lens surface? In the old days I used to use lens cleaning fluid and lens cleaning tissues. Are microfiber cloths OK to use on camera lenses?

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Topic unlocked

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

I distrust microfiber cloths because, over time, they pick up dust and schmutz that could scratch optical surfaces. When was the last time any of us cleaned or washed microfiber lens cloths? Wet wipes might damage the optical coatings on the lens elements, or leave a residue.

I use a Giotto blower and Lens Pens to clean lens surfaces. A quick puff of air, gentle wipe with the lens pens brush, circular swipe with the cleaning element finished with the Lenspen brush.
Depending where I am shooting, I go through this process with each lens I have used during the day, or once I return home after a shoot.

I

srt101fan

Thanks much; appreciate your input. I've never used a lens pen. Maybe it's time I got one...

btbg

rgernaderphoto is right. Microfiber clothes are great when they are new, but can pick up objects which could scratch a lens.

Len pens are a good option, as is a blower. I use both regularly. With that said, I still sometimes use microfiber cloths. I often shoot in bad weather and a microfiber cloth is pretty good for wiping water off lenses, including the front element.

However, it's a risk that may mean that someday I scratch a lens and have to replace it. If you are going to use microfiber cloths I would recommend that you replace them regularly and make sure that they are clean before using them and even then it probably isn't the best choice. I'm taking a calculated risk.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I generally agree with the suggestions in this article:

https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2016/03/how-to-clean-your-camera-lenses-and-check-for-problems/

My local camera repair guy has a great big cannister of medical grade ether, which he combines with Isopropanol, to remove greasy smudges, and uses a 0.1 micron-filtered compressed air system to blow off loose residue. He polishes with a microfiber cloth, which is replaced on a regular basis. Lens pens are also good, but have a limited life span, just like a microfiber cloth - for the same reasons.

srt101fan

Good input; thank you!

srt101fan

Thanks for the link, Gene; very useful. So Lensrentals uses microfiber cloths in part of their cleaning. But I noticed they say "clean" cloth! So that goes along with what you all are saying, i.e. the concern about dirt on the cloth.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I am very “old school” when it comes to lens cleaning procedures in that I stay away from gadgets, pens and cloths, especial avoiding microfiber cleaning cloths and other products that are actually intended for household cleaning chores. My basic tools are traditional PHOTOGRAPHIC lens cleaning tissue (I stockpiled a large inventory of Kodak tissue, my favorite, fearing that it would be gone along with all the other Kodak products). I also use a few very soft lens cleaning brushes- mine are in retractable lipstick tube-like configurations with covers, so they don't get dirty. I also use a large syringe type air blower.

One of the most important aspect of lens cleaning is to remove any dust or any other particles from the surface BEFORE using the brush or the tissue. Cretin particles can be abrasive and any direct friction, pressure rubbing can cause scratching and subsequent harm to the lens coating and other optical functions. The first step is to use the blower to remove any particles, grains or even microscopic dust that may not necessarily be viable.

I use the simple blower and avoid canned air or compressed air. Canned air oftentimes contains propellants which can accompany the air stream and leave a waxen material on the lens- bad news! Air from a compressor, unless careful filtered, can contain oil or even metallic particles. In my studio, I have a cylinder of MEDICAL compressed air (there are no metallic particles or impurities in the tank) that I used to to dust negatives and glass negative carriers. I kept it and have it refilled to clean my scanner beds, old negatives and other gear. It is safe for lenses. If you use compressed air, make certain to set the regulator at a fairly low PSI. Excessive pressure can blow particles and impurities into the lens or the other mechanisms or even dislodge certain parts.

So...my basic procedure is blow off the surface- then gently dust with the brush and only use the tissue to remove minor smudges. If there is dust embedded in the area around the circumference of the lens where it meets the rim or retaining ring, I make a tiny swab (like homemade mini- Q-tip) our of the lens cleaning paper and very carefully clean that area with gentle upward movements.

If I am out on location and don't have my brush handy, I stack a few sheets of lens tissue and tare them in half. The straggling fibers at the edge make for an improvised brush.

Lens cleaning liquids should be used only to clean off smudges and fingerprints. Use only the types specifically formulated for photographic lenses. Use it sparingly and NEVER apply it directly to the lens-only to the lens clanging tissue. That stuff can seep into the lens, cause a build up of contaminants and dissolve cements and other materials that retain the lens elements.

Years ago, when I had a side business of electronic flash repair and modification, my next-door neighbor in the building was a camera repair man. Oftentimes we would run into each others shops exclaiming “...you won't believe what this photographer did to his or her equipment...” *! So here's a list of lens cleaning no-nos based on those experiences.

Do not attempt to clean internal lens elements by disassembling the lens- that's a job for the repair technician. You man detect mold, Newton's rings, oily depots for diaphragm and shutter lubricants etc.
Don't mess with those problems- bring it in for repair.

Do not clan your lens with your necktie, scarf, you shirt or any article of your clothing! I wish I had a nickle for every time I noticed someone doing that! Even if certain fabrics are soft they may contain residual traces of laundry detergents, bleaches fabric softeners.

Do not use a handkerchief, facial tissue, toilet paper, paper toweling,
industrial wipes, or the aforementioned household cleaning cloths. All of that stuff is too rough and many are impregnated with oils, perfumes, lotions, and other harmful chemicals that can leave behind residues that will attract even more dust and dirt.

NEVER use Windex or any ammonia based cleaner.

Eyeglass cleaning materials and solutions are not suitable for camera lenses. Paper products like “Sight Savers” are too rough and many of the cloths tissues and liquids contain anti-fog and other chemicals that leave behind residual coatings and contain compounds that will harm lens coatings.

Do not use anti-static cloths, they too are impregnated with harmful compounds and can lead residual coating that are next to impossible to remove. Many of theses cloths are sold in camera stores for cleaning of negatives, slides, negative carries and scanner beds- they are NOT intended for lenses.

One more note: In the olden days, a lens was just a lens, optical glass mounted in a barrel with a diaphragm or Waterhouse stops- many cameras had focal plane or Packard type shutters. Nowadays, many lenses are mounted in shutters, have complex internal mechanisms and electronic contacts, servo mechanisms, and more. There are zoom and helical focusing parts as well, so taking care of
“lenses” requires further maintenance and cleaning other than those applied to lens surfaces alone. When I do my routine lens cleaning chores I make sure that all of the outer surface of the lens barrel, especial those that telescope and retract into one and other are clan and free of any particles, dust or dirt. I check the threads in the filter mount or bayonet mount at the front of each lens and watch out for plastic or metal shavings or particles that can be left behind by filters and shades and may end up on the lens. I gently clean any electronic contacts and make sure that any moving parts, cams and other linkages are clean and free to operate. Of course, I inspect and clean the main mechanical lens-mount inter-phase.

I don't usually pop lens caps on on off when I am shooting but I do use them, front and rear, when the equipment is in transport. I vacuum out the camera cases regularly- many photographers would be surprised at what kinda gunge, grit, and record-sized dust bunnies accumulate in there and somehow will go directly to their lenses.

*Oh- the trophy winner in the lens cleaning no-no category was the guy who cleaned his lens with “GLASS WAX” . Many of you are not old enough to remember that stuff. It looked like Pepto Bismol, a pink liquid glass and metal polish that was applied to the surface, allowed to dry to a haze and then polished off. It always left some pink stuff around the window frame that never came off- just imagine what it did to his camera!

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

My "rules of thumb" for lens cleaning are as follows:

1. Do cleanings as little as possible.... Lens caps, storing lenses in a clean camera bag, etc. all can help minimize the need to clean or the severity of cleanings when they are needed. Keep fingers and their oils off the optics! It's also a bit surprising how little effect some specks on a front element have on images. It takes a lot... or something really large... to have very much effect (dirty wide angle lenses are more likely to show issues in images, than dirty telephoto lenses).
2. Use the least intrusive or most "no touch" method possible. For example, first I'll try a puff of air from a bulb blower. If that's not sufficient, I use a gentle brush or very gentle wipe with a clean, dry microfiber cloth to remove dust particles. I ALWAYS do this before proceeding any further and using more aggressive methods of cleaning. Don't want to rub around dust particles on a lens any more than necessary... they might be abrasive and do damage... micro-scratches that accumulate over time.
3. If the above doesn't do the trick, in the case of fingerprints, adhered dust, etc. a "wet" cleaning may be necessary.... A few drops of lens cleaning fluid on either a Pecs Pad or microfiber cloth, that's used to wipe the lens gently. There are also pre-moistened swabs available, but they tend to be expensive (and often are over-saturated with fluid). Whatever is used, it's important to not use too much fluid or to spray or drip it directly onto the lens. A DAMP cloth, swab or pad is all that's needed. Too much fluid might "wick" into a lens around the edges and cause problems.
4. Once the wet cleaning is done I'll often use a LensPen as a final step, to gently polish away haze that the cleaning fluid tends to leave and end up with a sparkling clean surface that's somewhat dust resistant.

(Note: Lens cleaning is very similar to sensor cleaning, though that has to be done with far greater precision and care.)

This is not to say I haven't at times fogged a lens by breathing onto it and then used my t-shirt to wipe it! Above is my idealized method of lens cleaning, but it ain't always possible.

Oh, and I DON'T use "protection" filters most of the time. Lenses are tougher than people think and adding a filter doesn't protect very much (it's actually a lot more fragile than the lens itself, in most cases). In fact, with a filter you now have three surfaces to keep clean, instead of one. And multi-coated filters can be difficult to clean (some use additional coatings to make them easier to clean).

Exceptions are when I'm shooting in certain situations where the filter might actually help... such as a sandstorm, or a paintball battle, or similar. Those times, if I'm shooting I might use a quality, multi-coated UV filter. I also usually use "protection" at the seashore, to keep salt air off my lens as best possible, because it can be tough to clean off of any optics.

Finally, I mention micro-fiber cloths above. I buy those in bulk off Amazon, use one for a little while, then throw it away and get out a new one. You can launder them and reuse, but have to be sure that they're well rinsed and DON'T use fabric softener on them (either in the rinse cycle or, especially, in the dryer).... that will cause smears on your lenses. I also bought some larger "terry cloth" type micro fiber cloths at the local auto parts store for general camera cleaning.

srt101fan

Wow! Thank you for your response. Good info and an enjoyable read! I think I'll pass on the medical compressed air though.....

srt101fan

Thanks, amfoto! Always appreciate your comprehensive and thorough coverage of a topic. I have been thinking about those pre-moistened tissues but some UHH comments re residue left on the lens make me want to avoid them.

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Another good reason to have one of those hated UV/Daylight filters on your lens

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

The "filter" thing?!

This skylight, UV, optical glass protection)r issue, as a "protective device" has be debated for years and I don't want to rehash it over and over again but it is worth some commentary in a professional advice section and is is certainly pertinent in a thread of lens maintenance.

Frankly, there are certain types of substances that I NEVER want to have to clean off my lens and their are certain conditions, environment and perils that can cause serious and/or irreparable damage to lenses.

It is true that any filter paled in the light-path of a lens may cause some degradation of the image or may increase the potential for flare or distortion. In the case of a high quality precisely made and properly coated filter, the degree of any image degradation my be so infinitesimal that it can not even be detected in a significant enlargement of the final image. In my own experience, especially back in the film era, oftentimes multiple filters were required for color conversion, correction, tonal contrast in black and white work and polarization. Nonetheless, I was ale to make negatives and transparencies that soot up to very high degrees of enlargement and retained excellent sharpness and contrast. In many cases, the film did not have the same resolution potential of a modern digital sensor and the stuff was still sharp.

I am not recommending that a protection filter is necessary at all times or should be "permanently" installed on every lens.

In my own commercial and industrial work, on location and even in the studio, I am sometimes working at close range to food preparation with hot and possible spattering cooking oils, splashing liquids and gooey substances. Industrial sites oftentimes entail airborne metallic particles, sawdust, shavings, welding debris, sandblasting and paint over spray and worse. Ever cover a motor-sport event at track-side? Dirt, dust and gravel all over the place! Even a fashion or portrait shoot on a sandy beach or a saltwater atmosphere can be harmful. In theses scenarios- pop goes the FILTER!

In less hostile environments, unless filters are required for specific photographic application or effects, I don't use them. A protection filter will not make you lens "bulletproof" and if the filter impacted and shattered or the frame is deformed it can cause further damage.

Common sens and prudent damage prevention is the key.

Story: I was once covering a wedding (back in the film days) on a very overcast day- everything looked blue- even to the naked eye, so I put on my UV 16 filter. I was on the church steeps waiting for the newlyweds to emerge and catch the folks throwing rice and confetti. Suddenly, some innovative guest, emptied a good sized plastic bag full of "fairy dust" sparkles, glitter (?) onto the couple and the crowed, including ME- God knows what that stuff was- it was kinda sticky and kinda clung to everything. I never got the residue off the filter- the stuff survived two dry cleanings of my clothing and it took a week to wash it all out of my hair! I found a few specks of under the partitions in my camera bag- a year later! It did make for a cool shot though.

srt101fan

A practical approach to the "protective filter" issue. Funny story about the fairy dust!