mcclizam

Hi-My second post here. I've learned so much by reading the discussions among all you passionate pros. I use a Canon T5i and several lenses, mostly the new Tamron 18-400 and the Canon 55-250 for my nature stuff, and I also have a Canon 50 1.4 and a Canon 70-105.
Here's my topic: I'm still quite the beginner, after practicing HARD for about 18 months. I understand most of the basics and I'm happy with the images I get, except I have a BLOCK when it comes to getting sharp enough focus, especially with my zooms (birds, mostly). Recently, I've attempted two new techniques to get pictures I'm happier with, and they're showing some promise. The first is I discovered I was using a very low image quality setting, (about 8MP) and I've upped that to 18. (Rookie mistake, I know; don't yell at me.) Still JPEG, since I don't want to waste space and I'm not doing enough post processing to work with RAW. (I use Photoshop Elements).
The second thing I've been trying is back button focus. I've watched countless videos and read tutorials and it makes sense to me and I think I've immediately seen an improvement. Here's my question: in the attached unprocessed image, I like the focus on his face, but his body is fuzzy. I am aware what I should be doing (higher number f-stop) to get more depth of field and all of him sharp, but then this rule of using your lens at its widest aperture is supposed to be good too! In case I don't upload it right, this was shot on the Tamron 18-400, at 64mm, 800 ISO, 1/800, f/5. Comments and helpful critiques are most welcome. TIA.

(Download)

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

There is no such rule as to using a lens at it's widest apterture! If you do, no it is not good, most all optics are soft at their widest aperture, except lenses that are optimized for it and are usually fast (& expensive) lenses. One should always stop down at least a couple stops (each lens varies for its sweet spot) to get optimum sharpness!

Hyperhad Loc: Thunder Bay, Canada

Mcclizam,

Your camera settings look good as far as I can see. While the face of your (very cute) dog is sharper than the rest of the image, it is still soft. Your shutter speed and ISO look ok. You may want to try shutting down your aperture (usually best mid-way between the max and minimum) yields the best results for a lens. What exposure mode we're you using: Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Manual? From what I can see, it looks like your focus is soft. How was your auto focus set up? Were you getting any in focus confirmation (beep if set up that way)? Your shutter speed should have been fast enough to freeze any movement in your dog. Does your lens have any stabilization mode? (I'm not a Canon guy). So, I suspect your focus was off. As you mention, the sharpest area is the forehead and eyes of your dog. Zoomed in, there is also a fair amount of grain in the image, although that in itself is not the main culprit.

Try going into your menu and choose"Flexi-zone Single" mode. A small white square will appear. Using your cursor, and/or moving the camera around, keep the eyes of your subject inside the small square. The camera will focus on whatever is within that square. Set this up in your menu, then try another photo session with your dog. I think this will help solve your issue.
Post and let us know. Your equipment is certainly more than capable of capturing great images.

Chris

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

Not pertinent, but cute dog. Breed and age please? Thank you.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

A wider angle lens setting will have much more depth of field at the same f-stop and distance. The online DOF calculator shows with your camera and a 65mm lens at f5 from a distance of 10 ft., your DOF is just 7.5 inches in front of your subject (point of focus) and 8.8 inches behind your subject. With the same settings and distance and an 18mm lens setting, the total depth of field is 4.7 feet in front of your subject and 85.7 feet behind it. Try that same shot at 18mm on your 18-400 tamron. The whole dog plus a good part of the field in front and behind him should be in sharp focus. At a 24mm lens setting you should get everything in focus from 3 feet in front of to 10 feet behind your subject.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

mcclizam

Thank you! He (Chili) is a mini Australian Shepherd, a red merle, and he's 12 years old. He's just had a nice close haircut here! I think he's pretty cute, too!

Hyperhad Loc: Thunder Bay, Canada

True, 18mm will have a larger depth of field, but what if the OP wants to use his zoom for a closer view? He needs to do more shooting at various settings in order to get the images he wants. Getting to know his equipment is the best thing he can do. Practice makes perfect! Keep posting OP!

mcclizam

Thank you! This chart isn't something I'm familiar with, and I can see it's useful. How do you apply these calculations, though, in the "heat of the moment," i.e., chasing two dogs around the yard and zooming in and out, and holding the back button focus down? Haha--I guess that's what I have to learn.

mcclizam

Thank you! This chart isn't something I'm familiar with, and I can see it's useful. How do you apply these calculations, though, in the "heat of the moment," i.e., chasing two dogs around the yard and zooming in and out, and holding the back button focus down? Haha--I guess that's what I have to learn.

mcclizam

Thanks, Chris-
I think I shot this in shutter priority. My lens does have IS, so that was on. In Canon, there's only a "dot/light" not a square on the focus point, and it was set on his eye and I was holding down the back button, where I've set my focus control so my shutter button is only for firing. I will try again using your tips!

mcclizam

Thanks, Hyper-
I'm practicing hard, and will continue, but I'm a "she." LOL

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

You don't. You use the chart to get an idea of what focal length gives you what depth of field before you shoot. Sort of like knowing how many car lengths it takes to stop a car at different speeds so you automatically know how close to follow at different speeds. Or, just set the lens to 18mm. Anywhere in the yard you should get the whole dog in focus. I don't know why BBF focus would help if you are rapidly changing distances. You want your autofocus (best at single point) to recalculate the focus for the distance you are at shooting at when you take the pic. Using the shutter button half depressed to focus gives you the least amount of time between the focus and taking the picture. If you are fairly close (eg. 10 feet or so) you can do your zooming by cropping the picture. Sounds like you are trying to do too many things at once. You are better off standing in one spot with your settings preset (and tested) for the best exposure, and entice the dog to come to you.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

Then part of the dog will be out of focus. At 400mm and f16 at 40 ft., you still only have less than a foot of depth of field behind the focal point. Anything closer or with a wider aperture and your DOF shrinks to inches. OK for small birds but not for dogs. You could practice forever and never get the whole dog in focus.

Hyperhad Loc: Thunder Bay, Canada

My bad, and apologies for the assumption! I does take time to master your equipment. I, like many here, started out before either AF or digital existed, and it took time to develop good skills. I just purchased all-new equipment, and am getting used to that now. I am getting my fair share of soft images with the new stuff. We all do. Most Photographers have what are called "high shooting ratios". Basically, it means that for every "keeper", we have several images that do not make the cut. National Geographic Photographers, who are at the top of their game, will generally shoot dozens of images to get one keeper. Of those keepers, only one or two will make the final cut to publication. Keep at it. And, be thankful you are not shooting with film. It was very expensive. Now, you can not only see the image you just shot immediately, but you can delete the images you know are not keepers. There is nothing holding you back but time to shoot. An active dog is a great subject as they move around so much, you will develop valuable skills quickly. One method I used with my students was to give then a theme to shoot each day. One day, it would be "motion". The next would be "red". And so on. Keep that camera in your hands and use it. As to all the theory of photography, certainly, read about what you are having difficulty with, but don't forget to put that theory into practice. One of my much-used axioms in my classes was "practice drives theory". Keep shooting! And finally, remember you have great depth of knowledge here at HOG. Never hesitate to ask a question.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

With BBF, be sure you're using Continuous focus mode, not Single shot. It looks like the dog is moving toward you and you're focus didn't adjust. With Continuous, it will keep focusing as you shoot, maintaining focus of a moving target. At least that's the theory.