I’ve had a number of people over the last couple months ask about how I turn daytime photos into night time shots. So I finally had the time to put together this tutorial on how I create MY look. I am using Photoshop CC 2017 for this tutorial on a 27” iMac 4K Retina with a Wacom INTUOUSpro tablet.
Don’t think you need a tablet to create this effect. It certainly helps me, but I did it using a simple mouse. However, I am sure other programs such as Elements of will allow some type of way to achieve this look. Earlier versions of PS that don’t have Camera Raw Filter can use the Hue/Saturation Adjustment layer to achieve a similar look. This effect can also be achieved in LightRoom as the adjustments are identical to Camera Raw Filter.
To be clear, this effect won't work well with every photo. In fact it won't work at all with some. To make this effect really work well you’ll need a photo with cloudy skies; something without harsh shadows. If you have a washed out sky you can add a cloudy sky and then create the effect.
Be sure to open the downloads to make sure and see all the details. Let’s get started …
First, open the original photo, then create two copies: one for the DARKS and one for the LIGHTS glow. Keep the original hidden, but you can refer back to it when working on the darks.
Now, turn off the Original and LIGHTS layers, as we’ll start with the DARKS layer. Open the image in Camera Raw Filter, or Light Room’s equivalent. If you have an older version (at least back to CS4) of PS you can create the same effect using The Hue/Saturation layer.
Once you have your image open in Camera Raw, start by sliding the TEMPERATURE slider to the left, your image starts to get that blueish hue. Now slide the Exposure slider to the left and you’ll really start to see it transform into a night time image. The rest of the sliders are personal taste. The red arrows are just suggestions. Do everything to your taste and what fits your image.
For those using Adjustment layers, this is for you …
Select the Hue/Saturation icon (circled in red at top), then, check the COLORIZE box. This allows you to change the colors with your sliders. Before adjusting colors, make sure to check the Selective Icon circled in red at the very bottom. This icon tells Photoshop that you only want to allow changes to the layer you are working on. Otherwise it will add color to all visible layers. Follow my red arrows to create the blue layer. follow the same instructions and arrows to create a yellow layer. feel free to use Levels as well to create a better blue or better yellow.
The following instructions apply to everyone, wether you applied Adjustment Layers, or used camera Raw in PS or LightRoom.
Here’s where the magic begins. First thing we do is add a new Layer Mask your DARKS layer. Make sure the new Mask Layer is selected as that is the layer you will be “painting” on — and which is why a tablet is really handy. However, it is also easy enough to do with a mouse; I did it for years. ;-) Anyway, select your brush tool and set your Hardness to 0 percent as we want soft edges, as night light always spills beyond its edges in most cases. Then make sure you are set to your black and white default colors, as we’ll be painting with black to reveal the yellow light.
So, dive in … start painting away the windows where you know light will be spilling in. Be creative and adjust your opacity levels as you see fit and appropriate. I use 90-100 percent on the windows and any exterior lighting as it is our source. I use 10-20 percent opacity as I move furthest away from the light source that would still reflect some light. Also, paint with 10 percent over an area if you want to build up color incrementally.
Pay attention to detail — that is why we kept the original, so you can toggle between the DARK layer and the Original layer to see what you might be missing in the dark. In the image I used I zoomed into 900 percent or so to hit the leaves and the posts on the fence, as well as highlights on the trees. If you don’t know, you can hold down the Shift Key and click on and off of you Layer Mask to make sure you are painting in the right areas. If you need to erase something, just switch to painting with White and that will conceal what you want to get rid of. Just remember, Black reveals; White conceals.
Remember, in Photoshop, or whatever software you are using, there are many ways to create the same effect. There’s no right or wrong, only good results or bad results. I hope you enjoy this and it helps you create some really amazing post work to an uninspiring shot.
Scroll to the bottom photo to download and practice with. Be sure and share you examples with us, we all would like to see what you can create. Feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
Now get cracking!
A couple of my images going from Day Into Night ...
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Download)
A couple of my images going from Day Into Night ...
(
Download)
First, open the original photo, then create two copies: one for the DARKS and one for the LIGHTS glow. Keep the original hidden, but you can refer back to it when working on the darks.
(
Download)
Open the image in Camera Raw Filter, use the sliders as indicated ...
(
Download)
This is for those using Adjustment layers ...
(
Download)
This is for those using Adjustment layers ...
(
Download)
This is for everyone now ... add a new Layer Mask to your DARKS layer ...
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Download)
Make sure your new Layer Mask is selected and your colors are black and white.
(
Download)
So, dive in … start painting away the windows and lights where you know light should be.
(
Download)
(
Download)
donolea wrote:
I’ve had a number of people over the last couple months ask about how I turn daytime photos into night time shots. So I finally had the time to put together this tutorial on how I create MY look. I am using Photoshop CC 2017 for this tutorial on a 27” iMac 4K Retina with a Wacom INTUOUSpro tablet.
Don’t think you need a tablet to create this effect. It certainly helps me, but I done using a simple mouse., however, I am sure other programs such as Elements of will allow some type of way to achieve this look. Earlier versions of PS that don’t have Camera Raw Filter can use the Hue/Saturation Adjustment layer to achieve a similar look. This effect can also be achieved in LightRoom as the adjustment are identical to Camera Raw Filter.
To be clear, this effect won't work well with every photo. In fact it won't work at all with some. To make this effect really work well you’ll need a photo with cloudy skies; something without harsh shadows. If you have a washed out sky you can add a cloudy sky and then create the effect.
Be sure to open the downloads to make sure and see all the details. Let’s get started …
First, open the original photo, then create two copies: one for the DARKS and one for the LIGHTS glow. Keep the original hidden, but you can refer back to it when working on the darks.
Now, turn off the Original and LIGHTS layers, as we’ll start with the DARKS layer. Open the image in Camera Raw Filter, or Light Room’s equivalent. If you have an older version (at least back to CS4) of PS you can create the same effect using The Hue/Saturation layer.
Once you have your image open in Camera Raw, start by sliding the TEMPERATURE slider to the left, your image starts to get that blueish hue. Now slide the Exposure slider to the left and you’ll really start to see it transform into a night time image. The rest of the sliders are personal taste. The red arrows are just suggestions. Do everything to your taste and what fits your image.
For those using Adjustment layers, this is for you …
Select the Hue/Saturation icon (circled in red at top), then, check the COLORIZE box. This allows you to change the colors with your sliders. Before adjusting colors, make sure to check the Selective Icon circled in red at the very bottom. This icon tells Photoshop that you only want to allow changes to the layer you are working on. Otherwise it will add color to all visible layers. Follow my red arrows to create the blue layer. follow the same instructions and arrows to create a yellow layer. feel free to use Levels as well to create a better blue or better yellow.
The following instructions apply to everyone, wether you applied Adjustment Layers, or used camera Raw in PS or LightRoom.
Here’s where the magic begins. First thing we do is add a new Layer Mask your DARKS layer. Make sure the new Mask Layer is selected as that is the layer you will be “painting” on — and which is why a tablet is really handy. However, it is also easy enough to do with a mouse; I did it for years. ;-) Anyway, elect your brush tool and set your Hardness to 100 percent as we want soft edges, as night light always spills beyond its edges in most cases. Then make sure you are set to your black and white default colors, as we’ll be painting with black to reveal the yellow light.
So, dive in … start painting away the windows where you know light will be spilling in. Be creative and adjust your opacity levels as you see fit and appropriate. I use 90-100 percent on the windows and any exterior lighting as it is our source. I use 10-20 percent opacity as I move furthest away from the light source that would still reflect some light. Also, paint with 10 percent over an area if you want to build up color incrementally.
Pay attention to detail — that is why we kept the original, so you can toggle between the DARK layer and the Original layer to see what you might be missing in the dark. In the image I used I zoomed into 900 percent or so to hit the leaves and the posts on the fence, as well as highlights on the trees. If you don’t know, you can hold down the Shift Key and click on and off of you Layer Mask to make sure you are painting in the right areas. If you need to erase something, just switch to painting with White and that will conceal what you want to get rid of. Just remember, Black reveals; White conceals.
Remember, in Photoshop, or whatever software you are using, there are many ways to create the same effect. There’s no right or wrong, only good results or bad results. I hope you enjoy this and it helps you create some really amazing post work to an uninspiring shot.
Scroll to the bottom photo to download and practice with. Be sure and share you examples with us, we all would like to see what you can create. Feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
Now get cracking!
I’ve had a number of people over the last couple m... (
show quote)
Thank you so much Don. I will be referring to this tutorial often. This is a really big help and you were very generous to take the time to help us out with this effect. Very much appreciated we thank you.
Erich
donolea , when you said this "Hardness to 100 percent as we want soft edges", did you really mean to set the hardness to 0% for soft edges? I don't have Photoshop, I use Affinity Photo and 100% hardness creates hard sharp edges.
Racmanaz wrote:
donolea , when you said this "Hardness to 100 percent as we want soft edges", did you really mean to set the hardness to 0% for soft edges? I don't have Photoshop, I use Affinity Photo and 100% hardness creates hard sharp edges.
Yeah, you're correct ... I was looking at opacity at the time. My bad, and thanks for the heads up. I wish I could edit it now. Oh well.
ebrunner wrote:
Thank you so much Don. I will be referring to this tutorial often. This is a really big help and you were very generous to take the time to help us out with this effect. Very much appreciated we thank you.
Erich
Thanks Erich, it's always a fun challenge and a great way to salvage what can be a rather mundane photo. Good luck to you and be sure to post your efforts.
Don
rlaugh
Loc: Michigan & Florida
Thank you so much for this...this is what a photography site should be!!
Donolea - this is amazing and so very thoughtful of you!! What a bunch of fun - can't wait to try this! Thanks very much!
Marylea
Thank you so much for such a detailed workflow. I am sure it took a great amount of time and effort. Now if I could only get you to stop by the house and do a one on one tutorial that would be the cherry on top of the ice cream. I can work with your schedule. So let me know when it Is good for you. LOL
rlaugh wrote:
Thank you so much for this...this is what a photography site should be!!
Thanks laugh, I’m glad you like this tutorial. It was a bit of a challenge at first, but it has now become one of my most favorite ways to creatively process certain photos. It is a great way to salvage what others would consider a boring shot an not give a second though about. Good luck to you and please post some of your efforts, and don’t hesitate to ask questions if you run into a sticking point.
Don
melueth wrote:
Donolea - this is amazing and so very thoughtful of you!! What a bunch of fun - can't wait to try this! Thanks very much!
Marylea
It was my pleasure, glad to do it. Now create and share with us some of your efforts and please ask questions if you hit a road block.
Don
NJFrank wrote:
Thank you so much for such a detailed workflow. I am sure it took a great amount of time and effort. Now if I could only get you to stop by the house and do a one on one tutorial that would be the cherry on top of the ice cream. I can work with your schedule. So let me know when it Is good for you. LOL
Glad you like it Frank! Yeah I was a bit surprised by how long (4 hours) it took to create this, but there’s nothing worse than checking out a tutorial where every third step is not explained and we’re all left guessing.
BTW, next time your in Nashville, we can do that one-on-one tutorial. 😜
donolea wrote:
It was my pleasure, glad to do it. Now create and share with us some of your efforts and please ask questions if you hit a road block.
Don
You should create this in a video tutorial format for dummies like me. Hehehe
Racmanaz wrote:
You should create this in a video tutorial format for dummies like me. Hehehe
I tried that once ... I have dogs, and all the barking and ambient noise made it a pain in the neck to do. I may try it again and see how it works.
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