bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur

Does anyone else have as much problem using the "side mounted" exposure meter on the 7DII as I do? It is at the point where I do not use the camera in Manual mode anymore because I have such a difficult time viewing the meter to determine exposure. Granted, I primarily shoot birds, often quickly flitting and moving in both sunlight and shade, but if I am shooting in a side lit situation, even shooting landscapes, it is difficult. I use an Eye-hood on the viewfinder and that helps but not always enough. I have started shooting in TV or shutter speed priority with EC, where I simply use the "blinking" aperture reading on the bottom of the viewfinder display to tell me if I am exposed properly.
Anybody have any hints to try to deal with this? I do like the camera and have over 30K shots on it since I bought it new, but it has been only the last 18 months that I have been shooting (or attempting to shoot) in Manual mode.
Now I am thinking about switching to a 80D for my crop camera. I use a 5D IV for a full frame body which has the exposure meter on the bottom of the viewfinder (where it should be, in my opinion).

pamh Loc: Port Lincoln South Australia

I too had problems with the side view exposure meter, always shoot in manual, ended up selling the camera as I found it so frustrating.

bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur

I am considering selling it also. I do like having a crop frame camera for certain lenses so may try an 80D.

pamh Loc: Port Lincoln South Australia

I bought the 80D and am very happy.

cthahn

Complain to Canon.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

I agree with you. It's the only thing I don't like about the camera. And I shoot in manual almost all the time. I wouldn't mind it if it wasn't SOOO far to the right in the viewfinder. My F1's had the meter to the right but it was easily visible. I also think that they should put the shutter and aperture 'wheels' together (slightly separated of course) right behind the shutter release button so I don't have to search for the aperture button on the back of the camera.

Brent Rowlett Loc: Atlanta, GA

Light meters in cameras use an average reading-never trust them. Being a manual shooter for 25 years I use a Seconic 758 and with a 5 degree scope you never miss and there is so much more to explore.

The other option is to use the Live function if you have one and see the simulated image on the screen.

bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur

The type of photography I enjoy does not lend itself to either of these methods. Trying to get well exposed of flitting, active birds moving from sunny areas to deeply shaded areas requires quick adjustments both in the camera (like auto iso for example) or by the photographer (SS and aperture). That is why the difficulty with visualizing the exposure meter in the 7DII is so frustrating.

Brent Rowlett Loc: Atlanta, GA

The 5 degree will give you those values instantly and you can set a stop variance in the meter to hit the brightest brights and darkest values midpoint. If you can't do that, shoot a bracket 3 exposure or shoot RAW. The RAW image will allow enough data to adjust just about any image within range.

Retired fat guy with a camera Loc: Colorado

Buy a light meter.

vininnj2u Loc: Whiting, New Jersey, USA

I had mine for three days and then brought it back for the same reason and got a full refund and got the Canon 80D and love it. With the price difference I was able to by a good Carbon Fiber Tri-pod.

bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur

Good for you recognizing the problem quickly. I have struggled for a long time trying to make do, and it is obvious that it is not going to work as well as I would like.