Camera shake (Page 2): Actually more like 1/300 since its a crop camera.

leftj Loc: Texas

jerryc41 wrote:

As others have said, a higher ISO would have helped. The recommended shutter speed for that focal length would be 1/200. Faster is better.

Actually more like 1/300 since its a crop camera.

Shoeless_Photographer Loc: Lexington

tarsen wrote:

I forgot to include the iso setting. I set it to auto and auto max to 3200. All were taken at 3200. Had I used 6400 it may have solved the problem and been using 1/320 for shutter speed. In this case I would rather have grain than camera shake. Did not buy the image stabilization on the Tamron lense. I might have gone to 12800 ISO also.

Ahhhhrgh! The VC on Tamron lenses is amazing! You would've had much more stable shots.

fourg1b2006 Loc: Long Island New York

That is a nice photo of the cat.

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

tarsen wrote:

I attended a college graduation last Friday. This was at the hockey arena at the University of Minnesota and we sat about 1/2 way up in the stands. I would guess about 400 ft. to the stage. I used my new Rebel T6I with my Tamron 70 to 200 lense (set to max = 300 mm for APC). Most of the pictures were taken at 160 sec at 2.8. I see camera shake in everyone.
Is/was there anything I could have done to reduce that? I don't think even a monopod would have helped.

Your EXIF is showing 1/80 sec exposure time. That is way too slow for the conditions.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

tarsen wrote:

I attended a college graduation last Friday. This was at the hockey arena at the University of Minnesota and we sat about 1/2 way up in the stands. I would guess about 400 ft. to the stage. I used my new Rebel T6I with my Tamron 70 to 200 lense (set to max = 300 mm for APC). Most of the pictures were taken at 160 sec at 2.8. I see camera shake in everyone.
Is/was there anything I could have done to reduce that? I don't think even a monopod would have helped.

Rule of thumb is to shoot at a shutter speed equal to the focal length of the lens, in this case, that would be 1/300 second would be the minimum. Also most lenses are sharpest when they are stopped down one to three stops. So, your solution is this, 1. set VR to on position, shoot at 1/500 sec at f 5.6 and set the iso until you get these settings. That should do it.

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

tarsen wrote:

I attended a college graduation last Friday. This was at the hockey arena at the University of Minnesota and we sat about 1/2 way up in the stands. I would guess about 400 ft. to the stage. I used my new Rebel T6I with my Tamron 70 to 200 lense (set to max = 300 mm for APC). Most of the pictures were taken at 160 sec at 2.8. I see camera shake in everyone.
Is/was there anything I could have done to reduce that? I don't think even a monopod would have helped.

You have to use a shutter speed at least equal to the inverse of the focal length you are using, and it is better if it is twice the inverse. I.e. of your focal length is 200 mm, then you shutter speed has to be at least 1/200 sec, and better if 1/400. The reason is that the angle of view is so small at long tele, that the slightest camera motion while the shutter is open, will move over a significant part of that angle of view.

Howie1a Loc: st pete fl

Hi I have found that if you have the auto ISO on it will over ride the f/stop or the shutter speed, You need to turn off the Auto Iso then either or both raise up your shutter speed and the ISO setting . We used to use higher shutter speeds as well as higher speed film in the old days, It works for me it should work for you , I have some very nice sharp pictures of my granddaughter at a concert in low light at a good distance away in the balcony . Howie

cthahn

Shutter speed is to slow.

georgeretired Loc: Manitoba Canada

Tom....I find your comment on this post interesting. With those factors what size lens would you suggest. I have 2 grads to go to this june and was considering my 70-200 with an extender.

leftj Loc: Texas

Howie1a wrote:

Hi I have found that if you have the auto ISO on it will over ride the f/stop or the shutter speed, You need to turn off the Auto Iso then either or both raise up your shutter speed and the ISO setting . We used to use higher shutter speeds as well as higher speed film in the old days, It works for me it should work for you , I have some very nice sharp pictures of my granddaughter at a concert in low light at a good distance away in the balcony . Howie

Certainly not true for Canon.

NoSocks Loc: quonochontaug, rhode island

Gene51 wrote:

Higher ISO for a faster shutter speed - ideally fa... (show quote)

Super sharp. Nice and crisp.

Djedi

Gene51 wrote:

Don't underestimate the value of stabilization. With good technique you can shoot at very slow shutter speeds. Here is an image taken with a 600mm lens on a full frame camera at 1/25 second.

Gene and others:
Did you download the OP's photo and look at it closely? Do you really think it is just a slow shutter speed that is at fault here? I don't see much of the "double" or "triple" image artifact that one normally sees with shaken photos. I see more out-of-focus issues in that particular photo. It's a shame we don't have more examples. Perhaps the AF on the lens is not working correctly?
W

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Howie1a wrote:

Hi I have found that if you have the auto ISO on it will over ride the f/stop or the shutter speed, You need to turn off the Auto Iso then either or both raise up your shutter speed and the ISO setting . We used to use higher shutter speeds as well as higher speed film in the old days, It works for me it should work for you , I have some very nice sharp pictures of my granddaughter at a concert in low light at a good distance away in the balcony . Howie

Not necessarily. Depends on the mode (manual, aperture priority, shutter priority...) and if you have an upper limit set on auto ISO. I often shoot manual with auto ISO (with no upper limit set). I pick a shutter speed to freeze the action and eliminate camera shake, set the aperture for the require DOF, and the ISO changes as needed to accommodate varying light conditions.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

tarsen wrote:

I attended a college graduation last Friday. This was at the hockey arena at the University of Minnesota and we sat about 1/2 way up in the stands. I would guess about 400 ft. to the stage. I used my new Rebel T6I with my Tamron 70 to 200 lense (set to max = 300 mm for APC). Most of the pictures were taken at 160 sec at 2.8. I see camera shake in everyone.
Is/was there anything I could have done to reduce that? I don't think even a monopod would have helped.

Contrary to popular thought, I'm going to be one who says it's not motion blur at least not to a major degree. To me it looks more like a focusing issue.

Many lenses go a touch beyond infinity and that is likely what you are seeing. Plus, you said you used f:2.8 which is, as pointed out by "billnikon" above, not in the "sweet spot".

One lens I have is a Tamron SP 70-210, f:3.5, Push/pull, (from the 1990's era and not used much anymore). A similar photographic result as what your photo is showing seems to be regular. To improve it's output I increased the f setting.

Please note: unless you know what you're doing, the lowest f setting on a lens can get you in trouble.
Instead of f:3.5 I use a minimum of one or two stops higher, (f:5.6-ish) no matter what. You should do similar. Instead of 2.8, try f:4.0 or so.

From what I've found out, most lenses made to cover both crop and full frame sensors, have to find a happy medium and that means one or the other. There are newer designed lenses that do a pretty good job of covering both sizes. Then there are the others.

paulrph1 Loc: Washington, Utah

tarsen wrote:

I attended a college graduation last Friday. This was at the hockey arena at the University of Minnesota and we sat about 1/2 way up in the stands. I would guess about 400 ft. to the stage. I used my new Rebel T6I with my Tamron 70 to 200 lense (set to max = 300 mm for APC). Most of the pictures were taken at 160 sec at 2.8. I see camera shake in everyone.
Is/was there anything I could have done to reduce that? I don't think even a monopod would have helped.

Remember the rule 1 over the focal length of the lens for the shutter speed. You shutter speed should have been at least 1/300 of a second. Yes a monopod would have helped immensely. Do not doubt it until you have given it a try.