Dear UHHs:
I have an Olympus 7-14 f2.8 pro lens which has a rounded front element and built-in tulip hood preventing the installation of the typical ND filter. There are adapters available to use 100 mm square filters, but they are expensive and bulky. I transitioned to the M4/3 format to go light given that I travel quite a bit and usually hike long distances on those travels. I have no desire to bulk up. In any event, I am thinking that photo stacking may work in urban environments which will somewhat duplicate the effects of an ND filter....such as movement of vehicles, etc. I will have availability of a tripod on an upcoming trip. So far, I have seen only mention of photo stacking on landscapes to smooth out water or clouds. Do any of you have experience with photo stacking in urban environments or can you point me to a web site that may be instructive?
Thank you for your guidance,
Rick
Use the UHH 'Search' tool to learn about HDR (high dynamic range) photography.
I've shot quite a lot of HDR where different exposures are combined to create the HDR effect. I would suspect that the exposure in these photos would be the same for all shots but the desired outcome is light streaks created by cars, blurry people, etc.
Im thinking use the camera's intervalometer and as you suggest, just combine as if it were HDR...which it is not.
Which camera are you using?
Have you tried the hi res mode to see what the results would be? Of course you will need a tripod or something else to put the camera on.
rjaywallace wrote:
Use the UHH 'Search' tool to learn about HDR (high dynamic range) photography.
I don't think he is talking about HDR images, but multiple exposures, like back in the film days!
Dear Fellow Hedge Hogs.
I found the answer.
This kind of photography is not HDR. It is more akin the shooting star trails. Use of an intervalmeter and a star program is needed. One must shoot in manual and a not auto light temp. This will ensure all settings are the same throughout all shots. Then take multiple shots from a tripod mounted camera. After, process one photo as desired then apply the same adjustments to all remaining photos. Then stack in star trails program. See the link for more info:
https://fstoppers.com/composite/10-things-keep-mind-when-stacking-time-lapse-images-135648Happy shooting,
Rick
RWebb76 wrote:
Dear UHHs:
I have an Olympus 7-14 f2.8 pro lens which has a rounded front element and built-in tulip hood preventing the installation of the typical ND filter. There are adapters available to use 100 mm square filters, but they are expensive and bulky. I transitioned to the M4/3 format to go light given that I travel quite a bit and usually hike long distances on those travels. I have no desire to bulk up. In any event, I am thinking that photo stacking may work in urban environments which will somewhat duplicate the effects of an ND filter....such as movement of vehicles, etc. I will have availability of a tripod on an upcoming trip. So far, I have seen only mention of photo stacking on landscapes to smooth out water or clouds. Do any of you have experience with photo stacking in urban environments or can you point me to a web site that may be instructive?
Thank you for your guidance,
Rick
Dear UHHs: br br I have an Olympus 7-14 f2.8 pro ... (
show quote)
Are you attempting to use the multiple images to remove things that move and show just the static scene? Perhaps a product like this:
https://www.projects-software.com/neatThis doesn't really replace a ND filter. I don't know any SW that emulates a ND filter.
JimH123 wrote:
Are you attempting to use the multiple images to remove things that move and show just the static scene? Perhaps a product like this:
https://www.projects-software.com/neatThis doesn't really replace a ND filter. I don't know any SW that emulates a ND filter.
Should have read the previous replies
i am not sure whether you are talking about focus stacking. if so,then you need a tripod,remote shutter release devise,use manual focus and take multiple shots changing the focal lengths in you lens up to infinity and you load those images in photoshop and photoshop will align these images for you.you have to keep the same aperture,shutter speed,same ISO but just change the focus from front to infinity using the focus ring in you lens.hope this helps
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