Like WoodnMetalGuy said…
In this example scenario the Key is high on Camera left (notice the shadow under the jaw/chin)
Fill is likely by large reflector just out of frame camera right.
There is a “Kicker’ from behind (camera left) proving rim illumination on the left side of the subject’s head and it is spilling to rim the left arm.

The challenge here is reflections off the subject’s glasses… possibly removed in post?
Also the even illumination of the flag (without shadows) is going to be a bear… unless this was green screened and the flag dropped in via post.

As for focal length? In my humble estimation 70mm is a tad short on a FX sensor, and would make the hands (closer than the face) to appear overly large… My choice would be the 135mm f/2 DC or the 105mm f/2 DC lens both are legendary for this type of portraiture… At a minimum bring a 70-200mm just in case…

Also bring black flags and cutters to kill flare and control shadows…
This is a fine art since your eye will not reveal what the D810 sensor records.

I’ve assisted on so many of this type of commercial assignment here are some thoughts to help achieve a high level of excellence…

Bring a pack of rice blotter paper (powder coated) and have each talent blot their T-Zone. Since males are unaccustomed to having makeup applied simply demonstrate on yourself and send them off to the men’s room if they are uneasy about this… Trust me it will kill shine on the forehead nose and chin… far more effective than the most defused softbox could hope to achieve…

Posing the hands are pivotal to success here… again demonstrate since these gentlemen are not agency models thus aren’t accustom to being moved about like manikins… While a clenched fist is masculine believe a soft hand is in order for this visual statement (however) verify with the client and/or their creative director here. Whatever is decided always have the hand sideways to minimize it’s dominance in the image… Notice in your go-by the left hand is even obscured by the right… the takeaway here is be certain to not let the hand divert attention to the face (small narrow soft being good and the smaller narrower and softer the better)

Final thoughts? Have you consider retaining a lighting assistant? It is a pass through expense and can take your efforts and perceived worth entirely to the next level…

Hope this helps…
Please enjoy your session Ponz …

OK guys - recap.

I have two Bowens 500ws monolights, softbox, two 34" white umbrellas, one 60" white umbrella and one 34" silver umbrella.

I'm seem to be getting decent results with the softbox close to subject 45 degrees (camera left) and large umbrella about 8 feet back on camera right (less than 45 degrees). No shadows on backdrop and her hair is well illuminated.

6 step power on the lights. 4.5 on key and 3.5 on fill.

Unless anyone has a better idea with the limited equipment I have to work with....


Ponz

OK guys - recap.

I have two Bowens 500ws monolights, softbox, two 34" white umbrellas, one 60" white umbrella and one 34" silver umbrella.

I'm seem to be getting decent results with the softbox close to subject 45 degrees (camera left) and large umbrella about 8 feet back on camera right (less than 45 degrees). No shadows on backdrop and her hair is well illuminated.

6 step power on the lights. 4.5 on key and 3.5 on fill.

Unless anyone has a better idea with the limited equipment I have to work with....


Ponz

Ponz,

Just got back home from Florida about 1:30am after a 13 hr trip, so I'm a little tired and catching up still. Here is a couple quick thoughts for you...

Overall, the shot feels a little flat to me, including the background. The right side of her face to me is a little over exposed and her left face side too underexposed. I suspect that the umbrella is just bouncing the light all over the place. How far off the background is she? Umbrellas generally through a lot of light all over.

You might try your largest umbrella pretty much directly in front of her to more evenly light her face. I do this my 7 ft parabolic sometimes. Then you might be able to use your other light as a hair light.

You could also work with the lighting setup you have here and use a reflector to kick some light back on her face left side. This reflector could be as simple as a sheet of white foam core from the dollar store or Walmart. Of course you can buy photographic reflectors too. This might help put a little light onto her left rear side hair too. Think about scrunching your umbrella around your light to to keep it from throwing light everywhere.

Watch the Robert Harrington video I mentioned earlier on YouTube. You can use your lights rather than the speedlite he uses. Lots of good information in that video, I have watched it many times.

Keep moving forward and trying some things...you are getting there...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
Harrisburg, NC

My favorite shoots are landscapes and nature. It's been quite a while since I've done any portrait work. I have a portrait shoot ion a couple of weeks and would like some sage advice. I'll be shooting a few military uniformed men and women. I've attached an example of whet they are looking for as an end result. I just purchased a posing stool, table, and stretchable gray backdrop. I'll be using my Nikon D810 and 24-70 f/2.8. I'm hoping I don't need longer than 70mm. I have a pair of nice BOWENS Gemini GM500Rs, a softbox, umbrellas, light stands, etc.....

I have the proper equipment (I believe). Judging from the attached pic, would someone tell me how the lighting was set up please? It appears equal both left and right.

Ponz

I think you did pretty well. The only two things I might say are that they seem "slightly" underexposed and desaturated (like you might have been dealing with skin tone issues and fixed it.)

The other thing is that your softboxes weren't large enough or alternately close enough to soften the shadows...they are still pretty harsh. You can see the shadow line pretty clearly. (And by harsh I mean that the transition between highlight and shadow is more abrupt than it should be, the gradient should be longer)

Did you meter for the highlight vs shadows on their face or did you wing it?