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Converting RAW to JPEG
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Aug 9, 2016 14:58:54   #
bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur
 
I shoot in RAW, process in LR and PSE, and then save to a file using JPEG. The JPEGs are used primarily for viewing on a computer screen (3840 x 2160 UHD). My question is what resolution should I use for these pictures? I usually save 2 copies, one that I can use for posting on UHH or emailing, and one that I use for viewing on my monitor or TV.

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Aug 9, 2016 15:06:38   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
You need only one version:

The largest.

UHH will create its own highly compressed version to display it by default.

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Aug 9, 2016 15:19:47   #
mkaplan519
 
The proper size for best quality on your monitor is 3840 x 2160.
As was mentioned above, you can upload that to UHH and let them compress it.

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Aug 9, 2016 15:27:04   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bajadreamer wrote:
I shoot in RAW, process in LR and PSE, and then save to a file using JPEG. The JPEGs are used primarily for viewing on a computer screen (3840 x 2160 UHD). My question is what resolution should I use for these pictures? I usually save 2 copies, one that I can use for posting on UHH or emailing, and one that I use for viewing on my monitor or TV.


Consider the notion that you probably don't need to keep any jpegs. If your workflow takes you to PSE (or Photoshop), you have a working psd file, that will be in the LR catalog, updated when you finish editing. This is the only file you should keep, as it is your final edit. In LR you can make whatever output preset you want - for example, for Facebook, they will accept an image up to a 2048 px on the longest side. For projected photo competitions, they usually want an image that is 1024 on the longest side, but some clubs and organizations will go to 1920, based on their projection capabilities. Emails are usually find at 1024 px, or smaller. For printing you want a full-sized jpeg, sRGB, and at least 80% or higher quality, and so on. I have about a dozen presets that reflect the requirements of the target destination, and I generate the jpegs as needed. Once they are delivered, I delete them. No need to keep them, since all the editing is done on the working file, that psd that PSE or PS generates with the layers etc.

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Aug 9, 2016 17:05:03   #
bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur
 
Rongnongno wrote:
You need only one version:

The largest.

UHH will create its own highly compressed version to display it by default.


Thank you. I did not know that. I do not think some of the other sites I post on do that. I will look into that.

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Aug 9, 2016 17:06:13   #
bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur
 
mkaplan519 wrote:
The proper size for best quality on your monitor is 3840 x 2160.
As was mentioned above, you can upload that to UHH and let them compress it.


Now that you put that in writing, it is a "duh" moment for me.

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Aug 9, 2016 17:08:09   #
bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur
 
Gene51 wrote:
Consider the notion that you probably don't need to keep any jpegs. If your workflow takes you to PSE (or Photoshop), you have a working psd file, that will be in the LR catalog, updated when you finish editing. This is the only file you should keep, as it is your final edit. In LR you can make whatever output preset you want - for example, for Facebook, they will accept an image up to a 2048 px on the longest side. For projected photo competitions, they usually want an image that is 1024 on the longest side, but some clubs and organizations will go to 1920, based on their projection capabilities. Emails are usually find at 1024 px, or smaller. For printing you want a full-sized jpeg, sRGB, and at least 80% or higher quality, and so on. I have about a dozen presets that reflect the requirements of the target destination, and I generate the jpegs as needed. Once they are delivered, I delete them. No need to keep them, since all the editing is done on the working file, that psd that PSE or PS generates with the layers etc.
Consider the notion that you probably don't need t... (show quote)


I am a real neophyte on PSE so that is good information. I do save my JPEG files on a thumb drive so I can run them on one of my televisions. I wonder if psd files would be recognized by the TV.

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Aug 9, 2016 17:33:13   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
bajadreamer wrote:
I am a real neophyte on PSE so that is good information. I do save my JPEG files on a thumb drive so I can run them on one of my televisions. I wonder if psd files would be recognized by the TV.


No.

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Aug 9, 2016 18:47:28   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
Rongnongno wrote:
You need only one version:

The largest.

UHH will create its own highly compressed version to display it by default.



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Aug 9, 2016 22:01:18   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bajadreamer wrote:
I am a real neophyte on PSE so that is good information. I do save my JPEG files on a thumb drive so I can run them on one of my televisions. I wonder if psd files would be recognized by the TV.


I don't think so. But if you use LR to import and catalog your images, and to do the initial global edits, your use of PSE should only be to fine tune the image making adjustments that are hard to do in LR - ie those requiring layers and masks and other goodies found in PSE that are not in LR. By default, the minute you add a layer, it becomes a psd file. If you save the image it will be saved as the same file name with the psd extension. This is because the commonly used jpegs do not support layers. If you save your layered image as a jpeg, it will "flatten" the image to just one layer.

But - and this is key - if you are looking at you image in LR, the easiest and cleanest way to get it to PSE is to right click on the image, and select "edit in" which will produce a flyout menu, hopefully with PSE as one of the choices. This will launch your image in PSE, with all the changes you made in LR. When you save that image, it will already be in the LR catalog, and on the LR flimstrip right next to the original raw file, with all the layers and edits that you made while in PSE.

So you don't need to export a psd file or have a tv that can read one. You open the psd file in LR, then export a jpeg, with a resolution that matches the tv, and you should be good to go.

If you use Google Chrome browser, you also might want to look into a Chromecast. It will wirelessly display anything that is on a device with the Chromecast software app on it - computer, phone, tablet etc. The best $35 I've spent on computer stuff. I use it to watch netflix and youtube videos on the tv, broadcast from my computer or tablet. It will mirror your desktop, which is how you would use it to see your pictures. Anything showing on the desktop will be mirrored to the tv.

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Aug 9, 2016 22:24:11   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
Gene51 wrote:
I don't think so. But if you use LR to import and catalog your images, and to do the initial global edits, your use of PSE should only be to fine tune the image making adjustments that are hard to do in LR - ie those requiring layers and masks and other goodies found in PSE that are not in LR. By default, the minute you add a layer, it becomes a psd file. If you save the image it will be saved as the same file name with the psd extension. This is because the commonly used jpegs do not support layers. If you save your layered image as a jpeg, it will "flatten" the image to just one layer.

But - and this is key - if you are looking at you image in LR, the easiest and cleanest way to get it to PSE is to right click on the image, and select "edit in" which will produce a flyout menu, hopefully with PSE as one of the choices. This will launch your image in PSE, with all the changes you made in LR. When you save that image, it will already be in the LR catalog, and on the LR flimstrip right next to the original raw file, with all the layers and edits that you made while in PSE.

So you don't need to export a psd file or have a tv that can read one. You open the psd file in LR, then export a jpeg, with a resolution that matches the tv, and you should be good to go.

If you use Google Chrome browser, you also might want to look into a Chromecast. It will wirelessly display anything that is on a device with the Chromecast software app on it - computer, phone, tablet etc. The best $35 I've spent on computer stuff. I use it to watch netflix and youtube videos on the tv, broadcast from my computer or tablet. It will mirror your desktop, which is how you would use it to see your pictures. Anything showing on the desktop will be mirrored to the tv.
I don't think so. But if you use LR to import and ... (show quote)


And if you're using a Mac or IPad, you can mirror your desktop to your TV with Apple TV.

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Aug 9, 2016 22:56:43   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
TriX wrote:
And if you're using a Mac or IPad, you can mirror your desktop to your TV with Apple TV.


And Chromecast works with all of the above - You don't need Apple TV, Mac, iPad or iPhone, but if that is all you have, it will work with those too. I have Windows, Android and IOS devices - works just fine.

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Aug 9, 2016 23:13:27   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
Gene51 wrote:
And Chromecast works with all of the above - You don't need Apple TV, Mac, iPad or iPhone, but if that is all you have, it will work with those too. I have Windows, Android and IOS devices - works just fine.


Cool. I didn't know it would work with Apple products - and lots cheaper too. Thanks!

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Aug 10, 2016 06:17:45   #
mborn Loc: Massachusetts
 
Gene51 wrote:
Consider the notion that you probably don't need to keep any jpegs. If your workflow takes you to PSE (or Photoshop), you have a working psd file, that will be in the LR catalog, updated when you finish editing. This is the only file you should keep, as it is your final edit. In LR you can make whatever output preset you want - for example, for Facebook, they will accept an image up to a 2048 px on the longest side. For projected photo competitions, they usually want an image that is 1024 on the longest side, but some clubs and organizations will go to 1920, based on their projection capabilities. Emails are usually find at 1024 px, or smaller. For printing you want a full-sized jpeg, sRGB, and at least 80% or higher quality, and so on. I have about a dozen presets that reflect the requirements of the target destination, and I generate the jpegs as needed. Once they are delivered, I delete them. No need to keep them, since all the editing is done on the working file, that psd that PSE or PS generates with the layers etc.
Consider the notion that you probably don't need t... (show quote)


My workflow is the same just save the RAW &/or PSD &/or TIFF files and generate JPEG as need from those files

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Aug 10, 2016 07:14:21   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
bajadreamer wrote:
Now that you put that in writing, it is a "duh" moment for me.


The only issue with posting that large, even with the the FB compression, the picture can be pirated. If you concerned about pilfering, go a lot smaller.

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