JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

I have been considering getting a polarizing filter for use with my Canon 60D & Tamron EF 70-300 f4.0-5.6 DI VC Zoom lens that has a 62mm lens ring. I do a lot of on the water photography which I expect will be it's main use.

I need some help. A few questions, if you please:
The zoom lens has a very deep,maybe 3", tulip shaped lens shade which is an absolute necessity on the water. Will I be able to reach the filter to rotate it? What specs should I look for? Thin, multi-coated, glass? There is a confusing plethora of Brands, Models, specs in B&H's catalog.

Does anyone use this combination of equipment? Any recommendations would be appreciated; I don't want to "go cheap" but to bust the budget isn't a very attractive option either.

Thanks in advance for your help.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I use a CP on a 28~300 with a rather deep lens shade. It's rather simple in that the maximum polarizing effect occurs at a certain alignment of the filter. Once it's on the camera, I simply rotate the filter to that position and that's it. Then put on the lens shade.

I recommend B+W Kaesemann Circular Polarizer with Multi-Resistant Coating. A bit of an expense, but it's part of your optical system.
--Bob

davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel

You are making a wise choice, as this will help you in your shooting around water. With filters, as with tripods, if you buy cheap you will buy often. Murphy's Law. You have a very nice lens and there is no need to hang junk in front of it. When I use a filter it is usually a B+W, they are sold by all reputable photo shops. They are generally as expensive as most other brands. Their frames are made of brass which aids in getting them on, off, and unstuck. There are several serious web sites that offer valuable information about filters. As you know little now I would suggest that you research them further. Filters are diminishing in value and need with the digital age. Some use them, some do not. Most can be duplicated in PP using today's software. If you look into this further you will find that the glass in a filter is often coated. Learn these coatings as they will be of value later. No matter how you go, using a circular polarizor in addition to a shade is a hassle. It will require patience on your part. Good luck to you, this is of great interest to folks who shoot around water often. Have fun with it.

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

Consider getting a non-tulip, screw on hood, and use it specifically for situations such as this. As you rotate the hood, you are simultaneously turning the CP filter ring to the desired position. Simple screw on hoods are very affordable; $5 to $15, depending on size and brand.

DerBiermeister Loc: North of Richmond VA

I cannot address the issue of being able to rotate the filter with the lens shade in place.

As for quality -- I see these polarized filters listed for anywhere from a few dollars to many hundreds of dollars. To some extent, you probably get what you pay for, but there has to be a happy medium also.

I also know from many years of experience with polarized sun glasses that the polarizing affect diminishes after a few years. You can always check it by looking at another polarized lens and rotate one of the two to a 90 degree position. If your polarized glasses are good quality and new, what you see on the other pair should be completely blacked out. On a worn pair, you'll see a lot of lighter areas.

Now -- photography polarized lenses could very well last many many years, as the cumulative time they are exposed to the sun is orders of magnitude less than your sunglasses. That assumes of course that the degradation is caused strictly from sun exposure.

Spirit Hawk Loc: Michigan,Sunrise side

I have that same Tamron 70-300 VC lens and use & like it a lot! as was stated above when i use a Moose's 81A Cir PL filter i turn filter to where i want and put the lens hood back on,,That works for me ??
Ron

Keldon Loc: Yukon, B.C.

You also enquired about the thin filters, something I don't believe nyone addressed. I would stay away from them if possible. I have found that a lens cap doesn't grab the thin filters properly and you risk losing the cap.....frequently.

joehel2 Loc: Cherry Hill, NJ

I bought an aftermarket tulip lens shade for a Nikon lens that had a pop up opening on top to adjust the CPL with your index finger.

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

I use screw on soft rubber lens hoods. They screw on to the front threads of the CP filter so you can adjust the CP by turning the hood. I don't know if they come in tulip shape.

For filters, I use B+W brand. Be sure to get multi-coated (MRC).

Gifted One Loc: S. E. Idaho

I believe that you are making a wise choice in using a CPL filter. They are great for other than water also.

The solution I have found in the past for deep shades and for lenses that the front element turns while focusing is the use of a good quality CPL filter with and appropriate rubber shade attached to the filter. The CPL can be rotated to get proper use of the effect and the focusing can be controlled.

Good luck!

J. R.

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

I have no used this approach but saw it in use. Guy bought a second lens hood and used one of those dremel tools to cut a decent size slot in the bottom into which he could insert a finger to rotate the filter.

I use the technique suggested above - align the filter with no hood then put on ht hood.

Zone-System-Grandpa Loc: Springfield, Ohio

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Go ahead and bust the budget ! You will be glad you did.

Boone Loc: Groundhog Town USA

Try this hood. I use them with a CP all the time. As already said, when you turn the hood, you are also adjusting the CP. Tip: I put a small piece (about 1") of electrical tape on the connection point of the hood and CP to make sure they stay connected without having to over tighten the hood.

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00603RZCM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Thanks, Boone.

NorthPacific

A CP is absolutely needed especially for photos in AZ and UT for example...If you do water scenes a lot, I would go one step further and buy a Singh Ray Gold Blue Polarizer. Pricey? Very...But it is pretty much a fundamental filter that transforms water into striking magazine cover looking images. If you do water, you must have one of these as a basic tool. I managed to get one some years ago that is a Cokin P filter size though I don't know if they still offer it.... But you could get a 77mm one and use step down rings for smaller filter sizes on other lenses.

I still use my CP the most but to have the ability to turn ordinary looking water into utterly jaw dropping blues is something no amount of narrative explanation can illustrate...you just have to use one and see for yourself.

http://www.singh-ray.com/shop/gold-n-blue-polarizer/

Some items you just have to pay the price for like a Canon 50mm F1.2L USM lens....You might not use it all the time but having this kind of capability in your bag means you can shoot in just about any kind of lighting condition. This Singh Ray Gold Blue filter is kind the same concept but instead of like the Canon lens is to low light, the Singh Ray Gold Blue is to water...

This is a one time investment that will pay enormous dividends for the rest of your life.

Shoeless_Photographer Loc: Lexington

I've got the same lens and hood. If you've got really long, slender fingers, you *might* be able to turn the filter. I'd like others' advice, probably best to turn it, then put on the hood last. At least with that lens you won't have to worry about the filter turning because the focus is done internally.