Photographing jewelry
Aug 21, 2011 11:14:51 #
I'm desperately in need of a photographic rescue!!
I am paying for a studio membership on ArtFire.com so I can sell my jewelry, but even though I have the use of a Samsung S85 digital camera (8.2 megapixels, 5x optical zoom, face Recognition AF & AE) (whatever that means!) I have been unable to find one good setting combination to use for photographing my jewelry for posting online. I am not a photographer, I am confused by even the trial-and-error attempts I have made. I haven't found a way to "save" settings that have been somewhat successful, and I've tried so many things now that I am completely lost. I've been trying to use a large white styrofoam cooler as a lightbox, but I'm willing to build a simple lightbox as seen online. Any suggestions for my dilemma would be greatly appreciated!!
Dixie
I am paying for a studio membership on ArtFire.com so I can sell my jewelry, but even though I have the use of a Samsung S85 digital camera (8.2 megapixels, 5x optical zoom, face Recognition AF & AE) (whatever that means!) I have been unable to find one good setting combination to use for photographing my jewelry for posting online. I am not a photographer, I am confused by even the trial-and-error attempts I have made. I haven't found a way to "save" settings that have been somewhat successful, and I've tried so many things now that I am completely lost. I've been trying to use a large white styrofoam cooler as a lightbox, but I'm willing to build a simple lightbox as seen online. Any suggestions for my dilemma would be greatly appreciated!!
Dixie
Aug 21, 2011 13:17:44 #
You will need to learn how to do macro or close-up photography, which will involve learning depth-of-field and lighting for close-up shots (avoiding shadows, etc.). Also, place jewelry on a solid background, such as a white matt board. You should likely invest in a book dealing with macro photography or "tabletop photography." Have patience and good luck.
Aug 21, 2011 14:05:04 #
In an earlier life, I taught close-up photography to artists in a craft museum.
First, do not do anything without a tripod. Second, go to a dollar store and buy two or three sheets of foam board. Score one side of one into three equal sections and bend it into a trifold. Put a second sheet under this one as your base. This all-white background may work well, depending on what you are photographing. Or, it may be terrible; if so, cover it with some dark, lint-free solid color velvet. Use the same light source every time, placed at the same distance from the subject. This will give you even, predictable lighting, regardless of the background. A flashlight might be used to give you some specular highlights.
If your camera has a macro setting, try using that. Shoot as far from the subject as you can. This will maximize depth of field on the subject, if it has three dimensions. There will be times when you will want to minimize depth of field and thus place the camera closer to the subject.
I would use the highest res jpg setting on the camera. This will allow you to shoot from a greater distance and then crop more. Use low ISO settings on the camera--perhaps 100. Avoid ISO settings of over 400 on most cameras; you will get more noise (electronic artifacts that are deadly with macro photography).
Finally, experiment. Document everything that works--how big, how far, how done, f stop, lighting, placement of camera, etc. This way you can reproduce good results.
If you can control the f stop on the camera, use the highest number you can (e.g., f 22) to maximize depth of field. Or, if you want to put part of the subject out of focus, use lower numbers (e.g., f 2.8). This is simple if your camera has a setting for aperture priority. See if it has an A on a dial with settings for various types of photos.
First, do not do anything without a tripod. Second, go to a dollar store and buy two or three sheets of foam board. Score one side of one into three equal sections and bend it into a trifold. Put a second sheet under this one as your base. This all-white background may work well, depending on what you are photographing. Or, it may be terrible; if so, cover it with some dark, lint-free solid color velvet. Use the same light source every time, placed at the same distance from the subject. This will give you even, predictable lighting, regardless of the background. A flashlight might be used to give you some specular highlights.
If your camera has a macro setting, try using that. Shoot as far from the subject as you can. This will maximize depth of field on the subject, if it has three dimensions. There will be times when you will want to minimize depth of field and thus place the camera closer to the subject.
I would use the highest res jpg setting on the camera. This will allow you to shoot from a greater distance and then crop more. Use low ISO settings on the camera--perhaps 100. Avoid ISO settings of over 400 on most cameras; you will get more noise (electronic artifacts that are deadly with macro photography).
Finally, experiment. Document everything that works--how big, how far, how done, f stop, lighting, placement of camera, etc. This way you can reproduce good results.
If you can control the f stop on the camera, use the highest number you can (e.g., f 22) to maximize depth of field. Or, if you want to put part of the subject out of focus, use lower numbers (e.g., f 2.8). This is simple if your camera has a setting for aperture priority. See if it has an A on a dial with settings for various types of photos.
Aug 21, 2011 14:08:12 #
PitchurMan
Loc: Michigan
First suggestion is to set the camera on a tripod. In close up photography even minimal camera movements - either closer or farther away from your subject - will render your photo out of focus.
Second suggestion, use the close up setting on the camera.
Third suggestion, if you are using tungsten or ambient light, be careful how you release the shutter. Squeeze half-way to set focus and exposure (AE = auto exposure, AF = auto focus), then gently squeeze the button all the way to take the picture. Don't press, punch or push the shutter button. Place your thumb on the bottom of the camera, your finger on the shutter button and squeeze them together.
Finally, don't expect the on-camera flash to generate pleasing lighting results.
Second suggestion, use the close up setting on the camera.
Third suggestion, if you are using tungsten or ambient light, be careful how you release the shutter. Squeeze half-way to set focus and exposure (AE = auto exposure, AF = auto focus), then gently squeeze the button all the way to take the picture. Don't press, punch or push the shutter button. Place your thumb on the bottom of the camera, your finger on the shutter button and squeeze them together.
Finally, don't expect the on-camera flash to generate pleasing lighting results.
Aug 21, 2011 14:35:52 #
Oh my. Oh my!!
What you are trying to do is shoot as a snapshooter and get the results of a highly trained photographer.
The first thing that you need to do is study the camera manual.
Then Get a good book on photography and study that.
1. You absolutely need a tripod
2. I have found that manual settings will give you more control
3. Photography is about light.
4. Practice practice practice
I am not intending to put you down. HOwever your expectations are a tad high for your knowledge.
I do hope you will find a way to resolve your dilema
What you are trying to do is shoot as a snapshooter and get the results of a highly trained photographer.
The first thing that you need to do is study the camera manual.
Then Get a good book on photography and study that.
1. You absolutely need a tripod
2. I have found that manual settings will give you more control
3. Photography is about light.
4. Practice practice practice
I am not intending to put you down. HOwever your expectations are a tad high for your knowledge.
I do hope you will find a way to resolve your dilema
Aug 21, 2011 15:02:54 #
Hi, you are definitely not enjoying it, perhaps you should pay a professional photographer to take quality images.
Aug 21, 2011 20:53:35 #
Hi Dixie,
Photographing jewelery (as we spell it in England) is not the easiest thing to do. A light box or tent is great. The secret is you must have a tripod, set your aperture as small as possible and the shutter speed to go with it. Focus manually on the near point of the item, squeeze the shutter gently or better still use the self timer.
Good luck,
Ian Hargraves
igh1066@hotmail.com
Photographing jewelery (as we spell it in England) is not the easiest thing to do. A light box or tent is great. The secret is you must have a tripod, set your aperture as small as possible and the shutter speed to go with it. Focus manually on the near point of the item, squeeze the shutter gently or better still use the self timer.
Good luck,
Ian Hargraves
igh1066@hotmail.com
Aug 21, 2011 21:01:17 #
The secret to jewelery (as we spell it in England, is to soften the light with difussing material . I hang the material about a foot away from the subject. I use a cut up laundry bag from a dollar store. cut it in two and it does a great job. If you can find a couple of old window bug screens that makes a great frame if you glue the material on to it.
Use a tripod, focus on the closest part of the item, stop down as far as possible (f16) and alter the shutter speed to get the correct exposure. They tell me that the new spiral type lams are very good for illumination and a couple of 12" refelectors from Ave Hardware will clamp onto the bacj of a chair and you have a great if inexpensive studio.
Good Luck
Ian Hargraves
igh1066@hotmail.com
Port Orange, Florida
ex Hastings, England.
Use a tripod, focus on the closest part of the item, stop down as far as possible (f16) and alter the shutter speed to get the correct exposure. They tell me that the new spiral type lams are very good for illumination and a couple of 12" refelectors from Ave Hardware will clamp onto the bacj of a chair and you have a great if inexpensive studio.
Good Luck
Ian Hargraves
igh1066@hotmail.com
Port Orange, Florida
ex Hastings, England.
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