SIGMA 70-300 F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO
Apr 7, 2012 23:03:29 #
I purchased this lens last year and it's been a great lens for me. However, I don't quite understand the macro switch on the lens. It states it must be zoomed to 200-300mm to enable the macro mode, but I don't understand how to use the macro mode or what it is supposed to do. I've re-read the paperwork that came with it, but since it's written in a dozen different languages, translated from Japanese, there isn't a great deal of detail in the instructions. Can someone please explain the use of the macro mode and what I can do with it?
Apr 7, 2012 23:21:24 #
First, please understand that a lens marked "Macro" does not necessarily mean that lens will capture 1:1 (life-size). It is often a designation used as a selling point, rather than a statement of true ability. 1:4, 1:3, and even 1:2 are close-up magnifications, not true macro.
Second, a zoom lens is already a compromise when compared to prime lenses of 70-mm, 150-mm, 200-mm, all the way to 300-mm. Prime lenses are usually sharper than zoom lenses of same lengths. Therefore, a prime macro lens will be sharper than a zoom macro lens.
Let us attempt to capture as close focus as possible with your lens:
1.) Set switch to MACRO;
2.) Zoom lens to 200-mm;
3.) Set focus to closest setting possible;
4.) Now move ENTIRE camera with lens, "in-&-out" toward subject, until focus is observed;
5.) Take photo and note your Working Distance (between lens front element & subject).
Set lens to 300-mm, and repeat. See which is best for you.
Second, a zoom lens is already a compromise when compared to prime lenses of 70-mm, 150-mm, 200-mm, all the way to 300-mm. Prime lenses are usually sharper than zoom lenses of same lengths. Therefore, a prime macro lens will be sharper than a zoom macro lens.
Let us attempt to capture as close focus as possible with your lens:
1.) Set switch to MACRO;
2.) Zoom lens to 200-mm;
3.) Set focus to closest setting possible;
4.) Now move ENTIRE camera with lens, "in-&-out" toward subject, until focus is observed;
5.) Take photo and note your Working Distance (between lens front element & subject).
Set lens to 300-mm, and repeat. See which is best for you.
Apr 8, 2012 06:19:45 #
Apr 8, 2012 20:10:04 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
First, please understand that a lens marked "... (show quote)
First, I want to qualify these photos. This was hand held today and it was quite windy so they may not be quite as sharp as they could be. With that said, I was able to move in to about 2 feet from my subject when I switch the lens to macro mode. When I moved the switch, I was able to extend the lens out much further than I could with the switch in normal mode. This allowed me to shoot things that I otherwise couldn't get within 20 feet of, even at 70mm. Thanks for helping me figure this out Nikonian. :)
lens at 200mm
lens at 300mm
Apr 8, 2012 20:29:40 #
Not bad, bawlmer. Shoot from a tripod and see how it looks. It is a law of nature and another manifestation of the natural perversity of things that the wind will start to blow 5 nanoseconds after someone steps outdoors to take a couple flower shots.
Apr 8, 2012 20:47:54 #
In order to appreciate magnification, we need to know how wide is the flower you photographed. You may wish to modify your next experimenting by photographing a flat metric ruler, like photo below. (My 105-mm macro lens at Minimum Working Distance)
I viewed your Exif info on the 300-mm photo. At ISO 100, you captured this image at 1/1000-sec at f/5.6 on a Sony DSC camera. Very narrow Depth-of-Field (DOF). Hard to see exactly what is in focus, since your lens has a curved field of focus, and not a flat field as does a true macro lens.
I agree with Eric: a tripod is mandatory for such a long lens. I also suggest reducing your aperture to f/11 or even f/16. To compensate your exposure, you can either reduce your shutter duration, increase your ISO or a little of both. Each will have pros & cons.
For starters, on a tripod, try ISO 200, 1/250-sec at f/16, which should give you the same exposure as you already captured, but with better DOF.
I viewed your Exif info on the 300-mm photo. At ISO 100, you captured this image at 1/1000-sec at f/5.6 on a Sony DSC camera. Very narrow Depth-of-Field (DOF). Hard to see exactly what is in focus, since your lens has a curved field of focus, and not a flat field as does a true macro lens.
I agree with Eric: a tripod is mandatory for such a long lens. I also suggest reducing your aperture to f/11 or even f/16. To compensate your exposure, you can either reduce your shutter duration, increase your ISO or a little of both. Each will have pros & cons.
For starters, on a tripod, try ISO 200, 1/250-sec at f/16, which should give you the same exposure as you already captured, but with better DOF.
105-mm MWD field of view = 23.5-mm wide = 1:1 magnification (life-size)
Apr 9, 2012 20:56:41 #
The flower was about the diameter of a dime, maybe a nickel. I'll try that with the ruler next chance I get. The markings on the lens indicate that at maximum, the ratio is 1:2.
46-mm Field-of-View at 300-mm
Apr 9, 2012 21:11:25 #
Apr 9, 2012 21:56:00 #
Apr 10, 2012 01:17:45 #
The sensor in your Sony Alpha SLT-A55V is 23.6-mm × 15.8-mm. Your image above (at MWD) is 46-mm wide. This is 1:2 (1/2 life-size), which is close-up range, but NOT a true macro of 1:1 (life-size).
Apr 10, 2012 21:04:04 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
Yep..thats what the lens said. :)The sensor in your Sony Alpha SLT-A55V is 23.6-mm × 15.8-mm. Your image above (at MWD) is 46-mm wide. This is 1:2 (1/2 life-size), which is close-up range, but NOT a true macro of 1:1 (life-size).
I have plans to buy a few other lenses before I get into a prime macro. Unless of course I can find one at a pawn shop or somewhere for cheap. I'm just glad to understand how the macro feature works finally. Thanks for all your help. And thanks to NGC for the kind words and guidance. :)
Apr 12, 2012 14:31:16 #
Try a Tamron 90-mm macro. Great macro for a reasonable price. Its also good for portraits especially head shots.
Apr 12, 2012 21:55:13 #
tomk wrote:
Try a Tamron 90-mm macro. Great macro for a reasonable price. Its also good for portraits especially head shots.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will certainly keep this in mind. In fact, Tamron is pushing their rebates on quite a few of their most popular lenses. This might be a good time to pick up what I need(pronounced want). :D
Apr 15, 2012 20:46:30 #
bawlmer wrote:
I purchased this lens last year and it's been a gr... (show quote)
I have one of those lenses for my Canon bodies. My copy is louder than hell when autofocusing. The Macro switch on it seems more mechanical than anything else. I think it moves something inside to allow more movement on the focusing lens. The result is that you can be a bit closer to the subject and get it in focus.
I haven't had much luck with it as a macro lens, I can get 1:2 magnification (that's what the numbers on the front tube signify) out of it from about 3 feet away. My extension tubes don't seem to help much on this lens.
It is a reasonable long reach lens for items where a fast and quiet auto focus is not needed.
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