Nikon D7100 1.3x option
Aug 21, 2015 02:07:23 #
OddJobber wrote:
(1) No, you will get no vignetting or distortion s... (show quote)
The only time I use this is when I shoot track meets and I want the additional fps and more burst buffer for hight jump and long jump.
Aug 21, 2015 02:40:25 #
skiman wrote:
The only time I use this is when I shoot track meets and I want the additional fps and more burst buffer for hight jump and long jump.
Yes. Good for getting the most out of the D7100's (crappy) buffer, shooting video at higher frames per second, directly uploading to Twitter or for fast action when IQ is secondary. The D7100 is a most excellent APS-C. And I have one. In fact it's right by the front door with a 1.4X TC attached to a 70-200, ready to shoot Mr Hummer when he shows up tomorrow morning.
But for a (I assume slow moving) wedding, never ever crop a cropped sensor!
Aug 21, 2015 02:45:29 #
OddJobber wrote:
...In fact it's right by the front door with a 1.4X TC attached to a 70-200 ......
....I thought you were going to say ...."used as a door stop!" :roll: :XD:
Aug 21, 2015 02:47:05 #
TucsonCoyote wrote:
....I thought you were going to say ...."used as a door stop!" :roll: :XD:
Never. I have two full frame Nikons but cannot give up the D7100. :D
Aug 21, 2015 06:20:29 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Susieb721 wrote:
I've just learned that my D7100 has an option to c... (show quote)
OK, with a 80-200 2.8 you can shoot at 300mm at f2.8. Just how far back in the church do you plan to be, on the next block! I used this lens with a full frame camera and got great shots from the back of the church. Use the 80-200 without the 1.3 crop factor, you will not need it. I always set up my tripod in the isle at the end of where the last person sat. Usually about half way to 3/4 of the way back and I was shooting head and shoulders of bride and groom from there at 200mm, at 300 you'll get nose hairs, I don't see what the fuss is all about. You just need some experience and you'll be fine. Don't short change your bride, don't use the 1.3 factor and instead use the proper lens and the correct technique.
Aug 21, 2015 06:31:18 #
I say make an effort to do enough test shots to enable you to make your own decision. If you are serious or seriously concerned, find the time. Some of the fun of photography is experimenting to create what appeals most to you. I love getting opinions, like you're doing, and making a little test procedure for me! Face it, you're not going to be happy until you try it!
Aug 21, 2015 06:40:23 #
skiman wrote:
The only time I use this is when I shoot track meets and I want the additional fps and more burst buffer for hight jump and long jump.
This, and the smaller files for storage, are the only possible benefit of using the in-camera crop.
Aug 21, 2015 06:57:41 #
Have the 7100 - have never used the 1.3, but in the 810 I do use the 5:4 setting frequently.
The area of the FX mode is 36x24 and the 5:4 is 30x24; when there are times when I don't want the full frame width area the 5:4 comes in nicely.
The area of the FX mode is 36x24 and the 5:4 is 30x24; when there are times when I don't want the full frame width area the 5:4 comes in nicely.
Aug 21, 2015 07:22:02 #
Bud S
Loc: Logan Ohio
Susieb721 wrote:
I've just learned that my D7100 has an option to c... (show quote)
I used it once when shooting an eagles nest from a great distance, to me it seems like a pre- crop feature. I do think on wildlife you would be keeping focus points more centered, I don't think it would be practical for any other purpose, my opinion only
Aug 21, 2015 08:14:26 #
The 1.3 mode uses all 51 sensors, but your subject has to fit within the hash marks in the viewfinder or it won't be in the resultant image. I played with it when I first got my D7100, but disregard it anymore. Better to crop in post if you need to.
Aug 21, 2015 08:47:08 #
oldtigger wrote:
Which prompts the question:
Why would you want to do that if the same information at the same quality is available from the sensor in standard mode?
Why would you want to do that if the same information at the same quality is available from the sensor in standard mode?
If you know you are going to crop to at least that anyway doing so in-camera might help you compose a little better and will reduce file size.
I routinely put my D800 in DX mode when shooting wildlife. It in effect applies the standard Nikon APS-C crop of 1.5. It reduces my MP from 36 to ~16...but 16 is more that good enough for my uses.
Tony Northrup says you are better off doing this than using a tele-extender...sharper images and no f-stop loss.
Aug 21, 2015 09:10:43 #
OddJobber wrote:
(1) No, you will get no vignetting or distortion s... (show quote)
It's just a crop. If you shoot the same focal length with or without the crop, IQ is the same.
Most particularly, if you view at 100% then the IQ is identical.
If, on the other hand, you zoom out to get the same image in the crop portion, then IQ is reduced because you are capturing the same image with fewer pixels.
Not the same as digital zoom, which is only applicable to JPG capture. Digital zoom will give better IQ than cropping the JPG. If you shoot RAW, then it doesn't matter.
Aug 21, 2015 09:23:11 #
Aug 21, 2015 10:10:00 #
jcboy3 wrote:
It's just a crop. If you shoot the same focal len... (show quote)
I believe the difference is a possible maximum 15mp vs a possible max of 24mp. Doesn't sound terribly critical for my work.
Aug 21, 2015 10:21:50 #
Listen to what these hogs are telling you. I have never even tried the 1.3 on my 2 D7100s. 1 crop per shot is enough! Shoot away with your Super Camera, the D7100.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
oldtigger wrote:
For all practical purposes all the 1.3 does is reduce your file size. reduce the area of your sensor which is used, and narrow your field of view.
Like the 1.5 crop factor, it adds nothing to your image and in fact works by throwing away most of what your lens sees.
It does not magnify the middle, it just trashes the edges.
Page 167 of your instruction book will show you how much is thrown away.
Make sense now?
Like the 1.5 crop factor, it adds nothing to your image and in fact works by throwing away most of what your lens sees.
It does not magnify the middle, it just trashes the edges.
Page 167 of your instruction book will show you how much is thrown away.
Make sense now?
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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