Nightski

Thanks for weighing in, Wolff. :-)

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

For some of us, quite a bit of control of the negative density range, Gamma.
--Bob

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Sandra, that is a wonderful first attempt. Keep up the good work. The focus is sharp, nice exposure, composition, etc. The basics are much the same as any other camera.
--Bob

Dan821 Loc: Traveling........

I scan all of my negatives to preserve the images and hopefully to prevent further image degradation. Then I can always reproduce a photo from any era or generation as needed and pp in lightroom or photoshop.

Nightski

I did get the negatives too. So it's important to scan them while they are new?

Cdouthitt Loc: Traverse City, MI

try http://www.thedarkroom.com

I just sent another roll of 120 into them today. I opt for their super scans.

Dan821 Loc: Traveling........

Yes! Less fingerprints and scratches..

jfn007 Loc: Close to the middle of nowhere.

This is a very good question.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

A good choice I think. I use a T3i plus all sorts of lenses, including older FD manual focus lenses updated to the EOS EF mount, which can be delightful. They are usually easier to focus manually than modern autofocus lenses on manual setting.

I checked back to see what you used when you introduced yourself to the forum, and since you picked on Canon initially and then invested in lenses and learning it makes total sense to get a Canon body. The only issue would be with EF-S lenses that won't fit easily on a film body for a whole host of good reasons that I think you know all about.

As for GPS data, you'll have to carry one with you and make those notes as well, the Garmin TopoMap type are pretty useful in that regard: http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Oregon-3-Inch-Worldwide-Handheld/dp/B00AXUXRUC/ref=sr_1_11?s=gps&srs=2529458011&ie=UTF8&qid=1438633743&sr=1-11&keywords=Garmin+GPS

You'll still need the notebook!

Have fun....

Nightski

All my lenses are EF lenses now. Thanks Peter. :-)

blackest Loc: Ireland

I'll restrict myself to photo processing and the CD. I'm pretty sure walgreens has a policy of not returning negatives and you will want them.

Basically the way prints are produced is via scanning so the cd is kind of a byproduct as they have to scan to print.

The problem is that they only scan at a low resolution since they aim at 6 by 4 or 7 by 5 prints.

You want a big enlargement, the disk will have such low resolution you will not be able to get a decent enlargement the negatives will be needed. in theory the fuji frontier developing system can scan at high resolution (it is set low in order to maximise throughput, i read the manual :) ). You will be lucky to find an operator who knows how to change the resolution of the scan.

The resolution of film is comparable to a full frame DSLR I'm not going to venture an opinion which is better. Slower iso film has less grain than the faster 400 iso film.

It may be worth shooting slide film which results in a positive image, if you can buy it and get it processed. Reason being is that color negative film has an orange filter which varies from brand to brand. This makes scanning a major pain as you try to get the balance right. You may find somewhere who will scan at a high resolution which will save you a lot of work.

Don't get 1 hour service ideally you want the developed negatives hard before getting prints. if the negative is soft its more likely you will get scratched negatives back from the processor. The negative should be properly dry before handling.

If you have slides you can use a slide digitizer, (can do negatives but black&white negatives are a lot easier to get right than color) but be careful these attach to a camera but if you have a crop sensor you will only get the center of the frame. Alternatively you could project your slides and photograph the projection. Most non pro scanners are very slow and dust is your enemy.

You can do your own developing i did as a kid, as well as conventional dark room chemicals ,there is a coffee based process available called cathenol this works for black & white and color as a brown monochrome. Color processing is a lot more precise and tricky but Darkroom equipment goes for peanuts these days...

Have fun

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

Rollei makes a clear base negative film. Also, it is my understanding that Kodak Ektar is optimized for scanning whatever that means.

Nightski

I have the negatives, so I am lucky this Walgreens doesn't have that policy.


They did tell me this when I went in to inquire about the process. That's what gave me the idea that I might want to scan them myself. So even though I don't know how to scan them yet, I requested the negatives.


This explains why they pixelate when I zoom in.



Very interesting and informative. Can I put slide film in this camera? I thought that only went in medium and large format cameras. Going to google that now. I did plan to use this camera for mostly b&w, but I couldn't buy the b&w at the store, so I bought color because i was impatient. I ordered the b&w film and now I have started on my first roll of that. I have an excellent place for a dark room. A whole basement area with no windows. I do want to play with that someday. First I think I'll get the negative scanning thing down. This may take years to digest all this.

Nightski

I will experiment and post. :-) Kodak Ektar ... I think that is what I used for the shots I posted ... that Ektar word sounds familiar.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Any 35mm film type, B&W, color negative, color slide, infrared....

http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-Fujichrome-Provia-Color-Exposures/dp/B00005YV57/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438636497&sr=8-1&keywords=35mm+slide+film

http://www.amazon.com/Ilford-Infrared-135-36-36-exp-ISO-200/dp/B00005YWB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438636622&sr=8-1&keywords=35mm+infrared+film

New film, new sensor type.....