Need help- why are these blurry? Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soccer game. I was sitting about 25 rows up. The first one is relatively sharp and I posted that for...

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soccer game. I was sitting about 25 rows up. The first one is relatively sharp and I posted that for comparison. I was using a Nikon 3100 with a Nikon 55-300 lens- handheld. I'm not sure if it's the:
A) camera
B) lens
C) shutter speed
D) Incorrect focus point
E) Other/combo of the above.

In #2 and #3, as you can see, the players are not moving very quickly, so I think shutter speed would not be a factor.

Its frustrating taking a bunch of shots at a game to have only a few look good. I'm just trying to learn.
Thanks for your input.

(Download)

Violameister Loc: michigan

In the last two images, the focal point seems to be at the far edge of the picture and to get blurrier when closer. Perhaps the camera was not given time to focus. In these situations I would always use manual focus.

Also, the sharpest picture also has the fastest shutter speed. I think 150 and 200 are too slow, even for "slowly" moving soccer players.

bparr1 Loc: Carthage, TN

What were you shooting in? Aperture priority, auto?

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

MWojton wrote:

A) camera
B) lens
C) shutter speed
D) Incorrect focus point
E) Other/combo of the above.

It's not the camera or the lens so you can rule those out. But shutter speed and focus point along with technique probably are your problem. Hand holding action photography takes some panning ability on the part of the photographer. Using 31 focal points lets the camera decide where to focus. Instead try using one focus point. That way you are panning on the one subject that you decide you want to be sharp and you're sure to be focused on it. If you aren't getting the action stopped with a shutter speed of 1/200th try halfing your shutter to 1/400th to stop the action better. Your camera may be set to the wrong focus mode. You don't want to use one-shot when doing action. You want continuous focusing. Make sure you're setup is correct. Also try continuous shooting. Don't take just one shot of a player; take 5 in a row at the cameras fastest fps speed. One of the shots in the sequence may be exactly what you are looking for. If your shutter is fast enough, your camera is setup correctly and you are panning correctly, you shouldn't have any problems.

One last thing. Someone just asked if you were using auto or aperture priority. The EXIF says aperture priority, but I'm thinking that is not correct because your ISO changed in the last image and I've never seen an aperture choice of f/4.8. So if you are using Program mode, I wouldn't. Use either S, A, or M and try to get your aperture up to f/8 or so. Keep your shutter up to about 1/400th or so. The rule of thumb is if you lens is 200mm, your shutter speed for action should be 1/400th; if your lens is 500mm, your shutter speed should be 1/1000th - especially for hand holding the camera.

slc66 Loc: Arlington, Texas

You are probably setting the aperture too low. The lower the f stop, the narrower the depth of field. The higher the f stop, the more depth of field. That is why landscapes are shot at high f stops.( usually f 16 or higher) to get more of the picture depth in focus.

PaulR01 Loc: West Texas

I will give you a simple pointer for stopping action. I shoot probable 90% sports. If the sun is going down or you are in a gym or stadium that have variable lighting. Shoot in shutter priority mode, and auto ISO. The rule of thumb is never let your shutter speed get below 1/1000. From the stands you can get away with 1/600 a lot of the times. The auto ISO will hold the shutter speed to your desired setting when the lighting drops. Second use a single focal point in low light and try to hit center mass. Your keeper rate will drastically improve.

ronwande Loc: Hendersonville NC

[quote=MWojton]Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soccer game. I was sitting about 25 rows up. The first one is relatively sharp and I posted that for comparison. I was using a Nikon 3100 with a Nikon 55-300 lens- handheld. I'm not sure if it's the:
A) camera
B) lens
C) shutter speed
D) Incorrect focus point
E) Other/combo of the above.

I downloaded all three images and saved them to my computer, then looked at all three carefully. The blurred players all show motion of some kind, either camera or player. As several others have said here, your shutter speeds are too slow. I would certainly use a higher ISO.
You can probably use 800 which would quadruple your shutter speed.

Shutter priority 1/1000 with F/5.6 or F/8 and auto ISO sounds like a very good solution. Give it a try and report back.

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

Violameister wrote:

In the last two images, the focal point seems to be at the far edge of the picture and to get blurrier when closer. Perhaps the camera was not given time to focus. In these situations I would always use manual focus.

Also, the sharpest picture also has the fastest shutter speed. I think 150 and 200 are too slow, even for "slowly" moving soccer players.

Good point. I usually use continuous focus when I shoot moving targets. Thanks

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

jeep_daddy wrote:

It's not the camera or the lens so you can rule th... (show quote)

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

slc66 wrote:

You are probably setting the aperture too low. The lower the f stop, the narrower the depth of field. The higher the f stop, the more depth of field. That is why landscapes are shot at high f stops.( usually f 16 or higher) to get more of the picture depth in focus.

Good advice along with the others- Thanks.

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

PaulR01 wrote:

I will give you a simple pointer for stopping acti... (show quote)

I thought that 1/200 or 1/250 would be fast enough but thank you for the suggestion. I will give it a try.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

I believe that you 1/200-sec shutter duration is too long, capturing subject movement. I recommend increasing your ISO to 800 (+ 2-stops) which will allow a shutter duration of 1/800-sec (- 2-stops), to capture same exposure.
Exif info image #2:
Camera Model: NIKON D3100
Image Date: 2015-07-11
Focal Length: 165.0mm
Aperture: /5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200-sec)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Center Weight
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No

Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

I would venture to say that the best method for capturing sports photos is to use a shutter speed of no less than 1/500th to stop action. If you wish to get a shot of a player as he kicks the ball and stop the action of the ball as it kicked by the player 1/500 may not be fast enough, you may opt to use 1/1000 to make sure you get the shot.
Your ISO needs to be set high enough to allow for no less then 1/500
Your lens should be at the lowest number possible i.e. 5.6, if you wish to give more detail to other players versus one player try using F 8.
Control your focus points or points try using a single focus point usually at the center point on the players chest.
The majority of sports shots I shoot are shot in the aperture priority mode set the aperture at a wide enough lens opening with your ISO set high enough to focus on the a spot where the action is taking place. If you shoot from the stands you ability to get shots that capture and stop the action will be difficult you can get as much of the action in the center of your camera frame and then crop the image to eliminate the players that are not involved.

Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

Here is an edit of what I think might be the best crop edit for your first photo,

(Download)

MWojton Loc: Yardley, PA

Dun1 wrote:

I would venture to say that the best method for ca... (show quote)

Thanks Nikonian and Dun, and to all for your input.
BTW, I was using 1 focus point for those shots. Picture #1 is clearer than the others. Shutter speed for #1 was 1/320 vs 1/200 for #2 and #3. Is that enough change to make a difference?