At 1:1 (life-size), f/8 provides a very narrow DOF. That is why I complimented OP for holding left & right stamens in focus with central pistil. He had to position subject just right in order to have all three parts in parallel with camera sensor plane, and keep all three within narrow DOF. Not easy!
I am sure this image was captured indoors, where lighting is controlled, and no wind. OP's camera was mounted on a sturdy tripod, so a 1-second exposure was no problem.

Oh, easy, thought we were talking SLR
You have more depth of field at 2.8 with your Panasonic than you would with a SLR.
I'm not familiar with Panasonic But I'm sure I can figure it out
here should be a Macro mode. It'll say Macro or there will be a flower symbol. You may be able to engage Macro in conjunction with another program like shutter priority. Like I said I'm not familiar with Panasonic but I'm sure there will be a Macro mode there somewhere.
This mode may automatically choose the aperture for you. And if it does it will most likely choose f8. F8 on your camera will give you more depth of field than you'd have with a SLR at f22
If Macro mode lets you choose the aperture, for this test choose 2.8 because this will allow for a faster shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed the less chance of blur due to camera shake or blur from your subject moving.
Set your ISO to the lowest number your camera has, should be around 100. Do not use automatic ISO if that's an option. Low ISO gives you a prettier picture, less noise.
Turn off your flash, the inboard flash can be used but that takes more settings to play around with. Way too easy to blow out the highlights with flash when shooting Macro.
Now, for macro photography "No camera movement" is very important. A tripod or a stationary object to hold your camera is a must. It doesn't matter what you want to photograph just pick something tiny.
You want some decent lighting and you can position your camera on a table a few inches away from your subject.
Look closely when your camera focuses. You can't get too close but you want to be close enough to focus properly. You want to make sure you're using spot focus, where your focus point is in the center of your lens. For Macro you're only using the center of your lens.
Let me know how this works out.

Just so you are aware of the purpose of this forum, your photo of a yellow hibiscus flower is actually a close-up, not a macro.

By definition a macro image is exactly the same size on the sensor as the object being photographed. OP's image of an hibiscus pistil is life size; your photo of the same type flower shows much more area, because you are not close enough to isolate just the pistil.

Please read:
True Macro-Photography Forum Introduction
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-22447-1.html

Just about any lens can capture a close-up photo. Many lenses can take a pseudo-macro photo. Only a purpose-built macro lens can take a true macro. This forum is reserved for true macro images.

If you want "Attaboy" comments, post to Photo Gallery. Do not expect much help in this forum.

If you want constructive criticism (sometimes a bit bloody) post to Photo Analysis. Take all comments (except mine) with a grain of salt. Remember, there is no criteria to determine between who really knows of what they speak, and wannabe experts.