With Nikon when using Continuous Focus with the back button focus button, a green dot in the view finder denotes focus has been achieved. It works in other modes as well but I find it most useful in the continuous focus mode. With a stationary subject, once focus has been achieved you can let up on the button and shoot away, the subject will stay in focus as long as it doesn’t move closer or farther away, lateral movements, like a bird at a feeder, or a subject recomposing don’t effect focus. You can set your aperature to allow for a depth of field that will allow for more of a sweet spot as well.

Interesting OddJobber, thanks for the post.

The Kenko Pro300 1.4 works well with the Nikon 70-300 AF-S 4.5-5.6 vr. Both Auto focus and exposure operate normally. I posted a couple examples in the other teleconverter post today. I attached a photo I took with the lens and Kenko here as well, I think it was at max 300mm. Certainly not the combo you have, but a possible lighter alternative for some situations. Good for sharing on Facebook, etc..

The simple answer is you will lose some sharpness, the amount varies with the lens converter/combo used. You will also lose an f stop(1.4X) or two(2.0X).

I have a couple pictures for you to compare.
I used a Nikon 70-300 A-FS f4.5-5.6 with a Kenko pro 300 1.4X. Nikon7200. If I remember right it was at 300mm, the last shot is close cropped.

I find the results acceptable, I mostly post on Facebook or view on my iPad, I don’t plan on making large prints.

On a tripod I prefere to compose the background then move the active focus point to the eye of the subject, instead of focusing and recomposing each shot. More focus points allows for more precise placement of the active focus point.

As Rodpark2 has demonstrated, using focus lock gives you unlimited focus spot ability, by locking focus and recomposing. Nice pictures Rodpark2.

Another function of focus points:
Nikon has a 3D tracking mode that hands off focus to an adjacent focus point as the subject moves, as long as you keep the subject within the frame, the camera will auto focus on the subject. In this mode more focus points offer a more precise focus.

It is comical, really. It’s obvious to me that many posters only read the OP(original post). Then they post their comment without regard for previous posts.

So the funny part is the joke is on them, because the next person like them(only reads the OP post) never reads their post! Lol

VTMatwood
I have the Teleplus Pro 300 1.4 DGX. I have not encountered any compatability issues. Auto Focus and Metering work the same with it attached(other than the loss of an fstop which can effect focus in low light).

I typically use a tripod, since with my D7200 the effective telephoto is 630mm at the maximum 300mm setting on the lens. So I haven’t experienced using VR while using the teleconverter.

Here is a link to an older PDF compatability table.

http://www.kenkoglobal.com/photo/Total_Compatibility_Table_PDF.pdf

Hope this helps

I have found that the Kenko 1.4 teleconverter works very well with the AF-S 70-300 VR. You lose 1 fstop, so it is best with good light.

I checked out a few of the recommendations on this thread, for my purposes the BosStrap has some unique features.

1. The camera attaches to a metal loop that slides on the strap, so the strap doesn’t have to move. This is important to me, since I typically wear a backpack on hikes with my camera.

2. The strap attaches to the strap lugs, Not the tripod mount. Should be handy for my monopod on hikes.


Thank you Jim for the recommendation, I look forward to trying out.

The Kelvin scale is also used to measure extreme cold, down to absolute zero. For instance, the background temperature of space has been determined to be about 2.7 degrees Kelvin. Below the visible light spectrum, Infrared(700K or so) and above the visible light spectrum, Ultraviolet, is the realm of radio waves, microwaves, and many other usefull applications.

I agree! You do seem confused on this issue. You ARE good at missinterpreting people trying to clarify it for you. Pretty simple concept.

Back to basics:
Some zoom lens’s have a constant Maximum aperture. I have a Nikon AF-S 70-200 F/2.8G IF-ED VR, the aperture stays the same throughout zoom range. If you choose F/2.8 (or any other f/stop)it will remain constant from 70-200.

Some zoom lenses Maximum aperture changes as the zoom magnification changes. I also have a Nikon AF/S DX 16-80 F/2.8-4E ED VR, the aperture changes automatically from F/2.8 at 16mm up to F/4 at 80mm. It can not be set to F/2.8 at 80mm.

If you want to have your aperture the same throughout the zoom range, you would need to use F/4 with the 16-80 lens, but you could use F/2.8 with the 70-200 lens.

An interesting tidbit I learned along the way is that the minimum aperture can change through the zoom range as well.
The Nikon AF/S DX 55-200 F/4-5.6G ED VR has a minimum aperture of F/22-32.

I hope this helps

I think you are describing a situation that requires a different lens, not a different mode.

Thank you Gene for following up on that. I knew they had to both be cropped bodies, but I wasn’t familiar with D2X... bodies. I hope it was an honest mistake made by Rongnongo.