Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: wesm
Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 14 next>>
Jul 12, 2019 15:43:20   #
BJW wrote:
I’m leaving to Iceland in a couple of days and I am really committed to traveling light. So, I’ve decided to take only the outrageously expensive Sony RX100 iv as my main camera. I hear it’s a great little camera, if i can get thru the detailed menus before I take off. (My iPhone is my backup).

Any recommendations for a good YouTube tutorial or a readable, user friendly guide other than the online Sony manual would be greatly appreciated.

Any hints from experienced users would also be great.

Will I regret leaving my full frame or MFT with a variety of lenses at home and traveling instead with one of the smallest high quality compact bridge cameras instead?

Thanks

BJW
I’m leaving to Iceland in a couple of days and I a... (show quote)


For things in broad daylight, I think the Sony will be fine. You won't get the real wide angle shots you might want, for example on the Diamond Beach by Jokulsarlon (Glacier lagoon). But I think you will miss having at least a MFT, if not full-frame, for night skies. This time of year, the sun barely goes down, and lots and lots of potentially long-exposure gold/blue hour shots, you'll want better glass and low-light capabilities. So I would take a full frame, maybe with a 24-70 or 24-105, and a tripod.
Go to
Oct 17, 2018 19:19:42   #
Gene51 wrote:

http://www.winecountry.camera/

https://fstoppers.com/architecture/fstoppers-reviews-wine-country-camera-filters-best-class-256068

At $1100 for a basic set of 4 Blackstone filters and the best holder in the business, it's not cheap. But it just oozes quality and precision. The other stuff is bush-league. No holder I've used or seen does a filter stack as well as this one.


I got one. Do you have any problems with the (square) filter vault actually falling out if it's placed next to the lens, and you are rotating the housing?
Go to
Oct 17, 2018 19:16:27   #
SusanFromVermont wrote:
A kit may sound like a good idea, but in the end you will probably end up only using a few of them. The best thing would be to figure out which ones you really want, and then buy good quality. You can always buy another one later, when you decide you need it. The most useful are the Graduated ND filters, and there are some interesting variations to consider. First there is how dark do you want to go - usually darker is better, because if you don't need darker, you can probably get a decent image straight out of the camera! Second, do you want one that starts dark at one end, and goes to clear at the other? Or do you want one that starts dark in the middle and goes to clear at both ends? Solid ND filters decrease the amount of light that enters the camera, but you could do that by changing exposure settings! More useful would be a circular polarizer, but you would need one for each different size of lens that you want to use it with.

Everyone has their brand preference, mine is B+H for the circular polarizer, and for the Grad ND I like Singh Ray Galen Rowell, which are rectangular. Like SPeters, I hand-hold them. Starting out, I also had holders and adapters, but they are just as easy to use and faster when hand-held. It takes a little practice, to make sure you are covering the whole lens, but allows you to switch from the filter for one image, and then immediately to shooting without it for another image. I think the only time the holder/adapter might be useful is if you want to stack filters, but even that can be done hand-held!
A kit may sound like a good idea, but in the end y... (show quote)


Typically, I'll use an ND filter because I want a long exposure. Sometimes, the light is so bright that I can't just close down the aperture and speed up the shutter, and still get the effect I want. Regarding hand-holding the filters, I would try it in a pinch, but I'm leery of any vibration being transmitted from me to the camera. I'm ambivalent about the graduated NDs, most of the things that I shoot that require them don't have nice, straight lines separating the dark from the light exposure regions.

Two good examples: showing a blurred waterfall in bright light (as opposed to freezing the motion of the water), and smoothing the ocean waves at sunset. In brightest lights, I'll use a 10-stop or higher filter.
Go to
Sep 7, 2018 01:44:38   #
mlj wrote:
As I mentioned UHH before, I am leaving soon for a 10 day trip to Northern AZ and Utah. Does anyone have any recommendations regarding iPad or Android apps that will help me locate ideal locations of the sun in a particular area. I am not sure of the language of what I am wanting to do. I have heard that, for example, if you are at Arches at 4PM on a particular day, this app would help you better know in advance the best location near the arches to get the best image. I hope I am making some sense!
As I mentioned UHH before, I am leaving soon for a... (show quote)


I use PhotoPills for sun, moon, and Milky Way positioning. It's pretty straightforward to get a location on a map, find an interesting rock formation, and find out where you have to stand to see the sun/moon rise over that formation. With a tad more work, you can factor in the height of obstacles.

It WON'T tell you directly whether the sun's going to shine through the arch. It will tell you the compass direction where the sun rises or sets, but it's up to you to scout the location to see if the arch faces the right direction, and there is somewhere for you to stand to see and photograph the sun through the arch. Best bet, as others have suggested, is a trip to the visitors' center or a photography guide for the area.
Go to
Aug 30, 2018 00:55:22   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
I can relate to having random, strange thoughts, but how about a phrase coined, I believe, by MinnieV:
harvesting pixels.

She used it in reference to taking a photo in poor conditions or other situations where it's unclear whether there might be something worthwhile to edit later on.

For those of us into playful pp, maintaining a substantial crop of pixels is part of the joy of the hobby
I can relate to having random, strange thoughts, b... (show quote)


Didn't Ansel Adams say something like, 10 pictures a year was a good crop?
Go to
Jun 30, 2018 04:51:15   #
Sally D wrote:
Dino may have left but some of us who have never created a panorama found the information very helpful. I for one thank you and am anxious to try stitching!


Go for it!!

I have Gene to thank for the idea of taking multiple shots in portrait mode and then stitching together in LR or PS. It's worked out really well for me.
Something I didn't see mentioned was to make sure the tripod head is LEVEL, so that the camera will be level at each position -- really cuts down on the grief in the stitching. Also implicit is that everything is stationary. If stuff is moving (stars, waves, water) putting the individual photos together can be quite challenging. I did a Milky Way panorama that way, and had difficulty with the horizon, because each exposure is 20 seconds or so, and the stars have moved a lot by the time you get from one end of 10 or 12 exposures to another.
Go to
Jun 24, 2018 03:59:19   #
apolloshep wrote:
Just a FYI the site below has the best price for the Canon 100 - 400 IS II that I have found so check this out if looking for one. Going forward I think I will get this lens shortly down the road it weighs about a pound less then my older lens and from reviews it is better. But as far as the Tamron lens I read a throughly review on it today on the net I do like the flexi lock feature which locks the zoom in for taking pictures or traveling but the one thing I am concerned about are the switches. The article said they slide real easily which could mess up your photo shoots the guy who wrote the review said he had to tape down the switches to prevent it from moving if this is the case would not buy it. But before I buy the new Canon tele I will go to my local camera shop to test the Tamron to see if this is a concern or not. Link below for best price..........

https://www.abesofmaine.com/Canon_EF_100-400mm_f_4_5-5_6L_IS_II_USM_Lens_1002909.html?l=ADWORDS&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLTetMHq2wIVlIJpCh27oAm4EAAYASAAEgLJHvD_BwE
Just a FYI the site below has the best price for t... (show quote)


Suggest you search this site for opinions about Abe's.
Go to
Jun 23, 2018 16:12:24   #
jerryc41 wrote:

If you want to freak out your son, switch to a hieroglyphic system - strange symbols, rather than letters. : )


Or barcodes. That ought to really do it to him!!
Go to
Jun 23, 2018 16:05:33   #
cidbearit wrote:
My son was giving me some crap as I was sorting through my equipment. He noticed that I have all my camera batteries lettered. I have six, lettered A-F. When he asked me why I told him I use them in order, A through F as they run down and get recharged. So, for example, when D comes out of the camera, E goes in and D goes straight to the charger. He laughed at me and called me anal.

I just want to keep usage and charge cycles even across all the batteries.

Anyone else manage their batteries in a similar way? Or am I just weird?

Dennis
My son was giving me some crap as I was sorting th... (show quote)

Wait till your kid gets two dead ones. Then who is anal?
Don't give him the satisfaction of arguing. Let consequences teach!
Go to
May 21, 2018 18:30:32   #
wesm wrote:
Let's see if I get any takers now :)
I'll lower the price to $500. Complete description and sample images in original post,
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-528716-1.html

Thanks,
Wes


This item is now SOLD.
Thanks
Go to
May 15, 2018 19:03:37   #
manofhg wrote:
Thank you all for your helpful advice and ideas.

Shutter lag is in all cameras as this link shows (https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/canon-5d-mkiii/canon-5d-mkiiiA6.HTM), regardless of how new camera is, it does take some time for the mirror to move, etc. That said, the smarts of the camera need to coordinate with the firing of the flash. With the MIOPS, it sends the signal (I assume) to both at the same time and therefore, the flash goes, then the shutter releases after the mirror has moved, etc.

I may be wrong, but I thinking that if the MIOPS were to send the info to the camera and the camera were to trip the flash, then they would be in sync, but delayed by the 59 ms or so and possibly miss the balloon's popping. For lightning, the flash isn't used and the amount of time that the lightning is striking is longer, I assume. I assume that because I have shot lightning successfully with just triggering when I saw the lightning, but that is based on a lucky longer strike. MIOPS says that the shutter lag isn't a problem with lightning capture.

Even though capturing the bursting of balloons has been done forever, it hasn't been done by me and I would at least like to see if I can accomplish what may be "old hat" to others. Therefore, I will seek to try and capture a few this week, maybe even tonight. As I get something worth displaying, I'll post some probably in the gallery or in the critique area because I love to have folks tell me how to improve or what might work better.
Thank you all for your helpful advice and ideas. b... (show quote)


Can you use mirror lock-up to reduce the time lag?
Go to
May 15, 2018 16:52:08   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
...

Some concepts can not be fully explained in quick tips. That's why I write long verbose posts. I was so busy learning photography that I did poorly in English class and totally neglected typing class so excuse the bad grammar and typos.


No worries. I appreciate your efforts. Consider yourself excused :D
Go to
May 14, 2018 00:00:37   #
Let's see if I get any takers now :)
I'll lower the price to $500. Complete description and sample images in original post,
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-528716-1.html

Thanks,
Wes
Go to
May 13, 2018 23:37:40   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
"I recently moved photos from my PC to my Mac Pro. They're in a hard drive folder and then I moved those photos to external drive. I checked to see that the images were in both places, they were and I could open the images." So the images are on the PC and the external? and you are connecting the external to the Mac and trying to import them using Lightroom Classic CC?

Is the Mac new? If so, perhaps it's doing things like moving, not copying all your pictures to the cloud and by the time you engage LR to add to the library they are moved to the cloud. Mac's do things like this thinking it knows what is best for you and doesn't really explain it to you. It just does it.

In any case, you might need to engage in help from Apple to see if your machine is doing such a thing. If not, then you'll have to contact Adobe. I've done a chat with them and they were very helpful by taking control of my computer and fixing things to make it work after the last major LR and PS upgrade. My video drivers needed to be updated was all but they did it for me.
b "I recently moved photos from my PC to my ... (show quote)


Actually Macs always copy between two filesystems (i.e., two distinct drives) by default.
Go to
May 13, 2018 23:35:40   #
mizzee wrote:
I recently moved photos from my PC to my Mac Pro. They're in a hard drive folder and then I moved those photos to external drive. I checked to see that the images were in both places, they were and I could open the images. BUT when I want to add the images into LR bad things happen. In Library I do my usual import, select the folder from the external drive. The images appear briefly with check marks and then disappear in a flash! The screen goes grey, there's no message and my only option is cancel. The images are a mixture of raw and JPEG.

Coincidently, I did a back up, or tried to and my computer was moving 5000 images to the cloud. After two days and nowhere near done, I canceled out of that.

HELP! What is going on? I tried the web and saw nothing that would address this problem. Thank you in advance
I recently moved photos from my PC to my Mac Pro. ... (show quote)


I wonder if they were already in this catalog, and you had Don't Import Duplicates checked in the Import dialog?

If you move the actual files outside of LR, then LR gets confused about where things are. There are ways to tell it to go look for something it can't find, consult the online help, sorry I don't remember off the top of my head.
Go to
Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 14 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.