Extremely well done. Did you use the RX-10 III's built in flash, or just the ambient stage lighting? I use the same model, and am very pleased with the results/zoom range, exposure/ etc.

Cindy, my favorite for the past few years has been CyberLink's Power Director. But during the last few years PowerDirector has resorted to a SUBSCRIPTION BASIS, which I don't approve of. It's the Adobe Syndrome, in my opinion, milking you as much money they can. I use a previous version, subscription free, which can be still be found online. Power Director works with windows 10, and later PCs, and prefers your computer to be a 64-bit system. PD recognizes most digital video formats for capture and further editing, and it's pretty intuitive to use. Again, if you're shopping online, look for a previous version that doesn't require a subscription.

I understand that DSLR/MILC conversions for infrared photography are fairly commonplace these days. But I am wondering if there any HOGGERS out there who may have forayed into converting older MiniDV style camcorders that record on tape, using the IR conversion process, filters/etc. I have seen the work of newer MILC photo enthusiasts who have converted their cameras to record in infrared, and the videos occasionally produced are wondrous. I was just wondering if any of you intrepid video photographers have ventured to have older CAMCORDERS converted for the infra-red capture process, and using the HDV/tape video format, in particular. Thanks for your input.

Regarding "best" and "worst" point-and-shoot cameras to consider, what about the so called "bridge" cameras, or more technically the MNILC or Mirrorless-non-interchangeable lens cameras, such as the ones made by Sony, specifically the RX- 10 series. I've personally owned a RX-10 Mod 3 for several years and found it to be quite versatile, with it's massive zoom, and multiple types of shooting resolutions and formats, even 4K video. The RX-10 series is now in it's Mod 4 generation, and is quite the performer. Yes, it's pricey, over $1000, even used, but the requester did not mention low price as a leading qualifier for "best". The RX-10 a heavy "bridge" camera, with it's massive zoom lens, but its extremely versatile. The current RX-10 mod 4 is probably nearing the end of it's production release, with the Mod 5 coming soon. However many of the previous models- Mod 3/Mod 2 are still available, at much lower prices, with used versions even cheaper. Happy hunting.

Howdy Tote 40.
The subject of capturing video and sound from Super-8 sound films can be a daunting one. There are many services that will do it for you- for a hefty price. Most of them will produce for you a captured video in either a finished DVD or in the MP4 format. My preferred method is MP4 because you have the ultimate versatility to edit the video/audio files as you wish, or make DVDs as you wish.
But if your classic Super-8 sound films are precious to you, or you are on a budget, and you have some time, you might want to set up your own Super-8 transfer system. This consists of a Super-8 sound projector, and a video camcorder, or a digital camera that has Audio Input Port, NOT just an external microphone. In my opinion, the BEST Super-8 Sound projectors were made by Elmo, notably the ST-1200, and the top of the line GS-1200. You mind find these on E-bay, or at consignment stores.
If you fortunate enough to find one of these projectors in good operating condition. You're good to go with the next phase- which is to get a decent AV recording device, either a true video camcorder or a digital camera with, both with audio LINE in input ports. In a nutshell, the process involves connecting the Audio OUT from the projector to the AUDIO IN of the camcorder. This avoids having to go through the noisy Mic In port. Then the next step is the line-up of the projected image in your recording device. This can be tested by lining up the image in your LCD viewfinder.
A final step is avoiding the annoying shutter bar problem with using this process. Normally you would see a rolling shutter bar in the viewfinder, which is very annoying. This has to do with the different frame rates between the projector and the video recording device. It is generally avoided by having the process done by a professional transfer company with the right equipment, or by you if you have access to special telecine transfer projectors which are designed to eliminate the issue. Elmo made such projectors as well.
But even if you can't find such a projector, you still MAY be able to reduce the rolling shutter bar if your camcorder/digital camera has the ability to modify it's shutter speed when recording. Usually choosing a slower shutter speed than the standard 1/30th of a second will help. You just have to experiment to find the right balance.
Perhaps Wolverine might introduce a SOUND version of such a transfer machine, but that remains to be seen.
I know all this experimentation is daunting, but as I said, if you have the time or on a tight budget, you might be able to accomplish it yourself with my suggestions above. Good luck.
Tony

Howdy Hoggers,
I'm currenty engaged in doing researching on purchasing a mirrorless bridge or MILC camera and having it converted for IR photography. I'm conversing with experts from LifePixel regarding the issues of "Hot Spots" which I understand that many of these models have, regarding IR image capture.
I'd like you Hoggers, who might already have gone down this IR conversion path, to chime in what your experience has been, particularly with regarding to the presence of "IR Hot Spots" in various models of mirrorless bridge or MILC cameras. How do you avoid them, if your camera model shows the defect, or is your converted IR bridge or MILC relative free of such IR defects.
Regards,
Tony Gomez

Hey Hoggers,
I'm considering modifying a Sony RX-100 bridge camera for IR shooting, like from a company like LifePixel. I was also considering buying a used model RX-100 from KEH to have the mod performed. I already asked LifePixel if the conversion for the RX-100 models was similar, and they said yes. So I have a question to ask those of you who may be using the RX-100 for standard photography, or may have actually had the camera modified for IR photography: What are the big differences between the current model (RX-100 Mod 6 or 7) and previous versions, which would probably be more affordable, if I bought the camera used?
Thanks,
Tony

I checked out the LifePixel website and I was impressed. Of particular interest were the IR VIDEO examples shot using an IR modified Sony RX-100 mirrorless camera. The slow motion video work in infra-red was just spectacular in my opinion. I was wondering if any of you HH'rs have had the RX-100 modified and how it works for you, either in still or video shooting scenarios?

Hi HH'ers, I'm considering getting a digital camera that has been specifically modified for IR photography.
I understand the modification can be done to either true DSLRs as well as the new generation of mirrorless digital cameras. Can you HH'rs chime in what the plusses or minuses one camera technology might have over the other?
Thanks.

I'm a devotee of Sony's DSC-RX10 Mod 3 bridge camera. Having an "all-in-one" has it's benefits, but also it's obvious pitfalls. One pitfall is the ability to shoot really close-up images. In the widest zoom setting, I find I can't get any closer than a foot or two, and still have the camera focus properly. So I was wondering if any you UHH readers have had any good experience using close-up lens combinations (+1/+2/+3) on the RX10? Your advice is appreciated.
Regards,
Tony Gomez

I was once a reviewer/Technical Editor for Digital Photographer, Pro Digital Imaging. I tried to objectively review every digital camera that was assigned to me. Of course there is some bias built into reviewing, all based on experience. But as previous responders to this thread have said, my paraphrasing, you "take all reviews with a grain of salt" and let yourself be the primary reviewer.

Howdy, there’s no question you might appreciate the light weight convenience of the latest model iphone11 Pro for video, however hand_holding it to get good stable/ shake free video, especially at longer telephoto zoom Ranges, might be problematical. Consider one of the newest generation hand-held Gimbal stabilizers like DJI’s OSMO 3, designed specifically for smart phones with Bluetooth control of zoom/pan/tilt/ etc. also, make sure the iphone11 has plenty of memory because HiRes video (HD or 4K) takes up a lot of memory!

I would also add my two cents to the Sony RX-10 Mod3 or Mod 4. Both models are an excellent bridge camera, and shoot in both Sony RAW and hi res JPEG, but they are relatively HEAVY, compared the smaller RX-100. The zoom lens is incredible- no need to carry around additional lenses. Also don' t forget to get a decent padded/hammock style carrying bag-like the ones from CaseLogic. They are well worth it. I accidentally dropped my RX-10 III, and it took $400 to repair it. But never again.

Greetings pecohen. I have used Pinnacle Ultimate Studio (older version) on my Windows 7 desktop for transfers from analog video tape/DVC format to the computer for eventual editing. But lately, I prefer to use another consumer-oriented video editing application- Cyberlink's Power Director 16 (again an older version than the current PD18, or the newer subscription-based 365 product. BTW, I HATE subscription-based software. I believe PD17 (non-subscription based version) is still available on Amazon, if your interested. I find the GUI in CyberLink's Power Director to be fairly intuitive and well thought out. It supports all the currently available digital video file-based formats common on all digital camcorders and cell-phones. Good luck in your searching for a better video program.

I second the idea Of using a hand-held mount device, not only remote control of capture, but also for stability- or relative shake-free capture. I’ve been using DJI’s new OSMO Mobile-3 with excellent results when connected to my iphone8+. The iPhone11 pro is very nearly the same size and should work very well with the OSMO-Mobile 3- it’s affordable too, about $140. It’s remote control features are remarkable using the MIMO app.