Good question!

If you want to create dimensionally, that is create the illusion of the third dimension on a two-dimensional sheet of photographic paper or a flat screen, there are a few important concepts to consider.

Lighting is of the utmost importance. Whether you are shooting a portrait, an object or a landscape, the play of light and shadow on the subject enables modelling and this is the illusion of form, depth and texture- all of which is anti-flatness. Of course, you can not move the landscape in relation to the sun or skylight so all you can do is wait until the lighting direction changes or change your point of view. If the sun or the major source of skylight is behind the camera or pretty close to the camera/subject axis, some flatness may occur.

Focal length choice is another issue that can cause some degree of flatness. It does not apply in this case in that your focal length is in the 30mm range. Perspective is affected or changes by distance, not by any particular focal length but if you use a very long lens, the distance required to frame your landscape can be such that compresses the distance, visually, between the foreground, middle ground and background.

Point of view. It may seem old school or a picture-postcard kida thing but foreground framing, that is including an element in the foreground, a tree, foliage, an archway, a building, etc. can add more depth to the image. If the foreground element or the foreground itself is slightly darker than the middle ground and the subject, that tends to lead the eye to the motif of the image and create more depth.

Sharpness is not necessarily an element in creating dimension- a soft image can still have depth, however poor focus or blur due to camera movement at slower shutter speeds can diminish detail and texture which adds to realism and tactility in the image. Your EXIF data reveals a slower shutter speed and a small aperture which may have caused a bit of diffraction that may also impair general picture quality. If you wis to extend the exposure for stopping down for depth of field or for utilizing intention blur in waterfalls, etc., be sure to use a tripod and a cable release or remote trigger, to minimize the potential for blur. Focus carefully and preview yoor depth of field if requried.

Composition. The old rule about layers- a foreground, middle, ground and background can be effective. You do not have to conform to every rule or elementary concept but oftentimes they actually work, My own working concept is to first go with the traditional method and then try variation and opposing concepts and see what works best. When you come across a magnificent view as you have in your image, it pays off to take the extra time to apply careful techniques and shoot for various points of view and perhaps wait or return when the light changes- if possible!

There is no feature or attribute in any camera or lens that can control the usage of light, the point of view or the composition. You can do good work with the gear you are using if you apply some of the aforementioned principles.

I hope this helps!