Alley enterance of the Warby Parker store in Pasadena, California, shot in InfraRed.
Fuji XE-1 with 16 mm lens.
AzPicLady wrote:
The sun looks really orange in all but the totality. Was that due to the filter?
The great part was being out in the middle of a huge meadow, totally alone with the birds and the cricketts!
It is the color of Hydrogen, which is the chemical composition of 99.999% of the Sun
Sharpless 2-199 The Soul Nebula, 7500 L.Y. in the constellation Cassiopeia. I had minimal observing time since the nebula set over the roof after 1 hr.
I have an iOptron SkyTracker, a simple camera tracking mount for astro. It followed the sun across the sky.
The camera was Fuji XT-5 with Tamron 18-300 telephoto lens at 300mm. Thousand Oaks Optical precision threaded solar filter.
Very satisfying imaging.
Crop of larger image taken on a Fuji XE-1 590 Nm IR converted
Taken from the Kenneth Hahn overlook in Culver City, California.
Fuji XE1 converted to 590 Nm IR.
Messier 1 the Crab Nebula, 6,523 L.Y. in the constellation Taurus. A supernova remnant 1054 was first observed by Chinese astronomers in 1054.
Two hours of 120 sec exposiures.
SkyKing wrote:
…huh…interesting…doesn’t look like a galaxy of stars in this image…?
I processed to highlight the dust lanes, the active nebula and star-forming regions.
jhgribble wrote:
First let me thank all of you for your responses. I don't have any tracking gear, that will be manual. So I may get be trying to be bite off more than I can chew. After all I don't want to be so busy that forget to enjoy it. Many great suggestions! Thank you all!
If you are doing it manually, get a gear drive tripod head like the Benro $200 or the Sunway $225. It will drastically simplify your smooth movements to keep 'ol Sol centered.
At the Annular eclipse in Albuquerque, at totality, a cheer went up from the 3000 observers at the Univ of New Mexico. When the eclipse was complete, everybody applauded.
M31 Andromeda is our nextdoor neighbor, only 2.75 million light years distant.
About 3 hours of data, stacked and processed in Pixinisight, finished in Adobe Lightroom.
jhgribble wrote:
Looking for some recommendations for taking pictures of the solar Eclipse.
I am thinking I will have 3 cameras going. Two dslr, both canon and my Google pixel 7 pro.
One to take a video
One to take stills say every 30 seconds, time lapsed
And possible hook the pixel to an old hand made telescope made by my father and brother some 50 years ago. It Has a 6 inch mirror and some wildly good optics with many many times more powerful that a zoom lens. Problem is there is no way to use those optics with a camera so I attach a phone holder to the focus ring adjust the focus with a choice of optics and then rotate the phone lense over the optics. It's not pretty but it works.
So here is my question s..1) For the video what mm lens would you recommend? More of a wide angle, middle of the road or telephoto?
2) for the stills how big do I need? Greater than 300mm? What intervals would use suggest between shots?
3) for those that have experience, it wise to try and remove ND100k filters while it is totally dark for a photo? I will be in the Cleveland area schedule for about 3 minutes of darkness.
4) and other suggestions is ways to use the. Telescope?
Would really really appreciate any answers, suggestions recommendations!!!
Thank you in advance!
John
Looking for some recommendations for taking pictur... (
show quote)
I shot the annular eclipse in Albuquerque with a Fuji XT5 and a Tamron 18-300 set at 300. I used a Thousand Oaks Optical glass solar filter to protect the optics and capture the eclipse. I looked up the ND100k, and it did not specifically state is was usable for a solar eclipse. You could severely damage your imaging train, not to mention your eyes, if you do not use a dedicated solar filter. I would not take the chance.
An iOptron Sky Guider Pro tracked the sun, keeping everything centered for the duration so it was hands-free. I did exposures every 3 minutes and found that 1/15th sec at the camera's base ISO worked best. I used Fuji's intervalometer to drive, but an external one would work just as well.
For your telescope, depending on the design, a dedicated solar filter is an absolute. Look at these from Agena Astro
https://agenaastro.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=telescope%20solar%20filtersI took a total of 150 images over the 2 hr sequence, culled 30 for a composite image that I did in Photoshop. There's an image on my profile of the annular eclipse.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-789783-1.htmlI have read that for a total eclipse, the solar filter is removed for totality and reattached immediately afterwards. There are tons of YouTube tutorials that will provide the details.
Granddad wrote:
I had to wait a long time to get this image. The water had to be as still as possible, even though the bird was still moving and in the right position to get a reflection.
Beautiful. What amazing plumeage.
Hudgens 49 wrote:
Taken 11/11/23 at Uluru, Ayers Rock
Consider a graduated filter in the foreground and opening up shadows to reveal hidden detail. Or, crop most of it out, leaving only the tree line. The lack of detail detracts from your image.
8000 L.Y. distant in the constellation Scorpius.
38 ea 120-second exposures stacked and processed in Pixinsight. Reprocessed with some amazing new tools.