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Apr 2, 2015 18:53:32   #
HowardPepper wrote:
I have two Canon DSLR bodies: an EOS 6D and an EOS Rebel T3i, along with a small, but useful collection of lenses. These make up my "go-to" kit for most of my photography.

Earlier this year, I treated myself to a Fujifilm X100T, and I have to say, I love that little camera! It goes with me most times when I don't want to carry one of my (much heavier and bulkier) DSLRs. I like this camera so much, I'm seriously thinking about getting the Fujifilm X-Pro 2 and a couple of lenses, when (if?) it is released.

I also have a Canon PowerShot G16 point and shoot, which is easy to pack and can easily travel with me. I used to have a Canon PowerShot SX50, but I got rid of it a couple of months ago. It sat on the shelf far to much to justify keeping it.

I guess the moral of my story is, you don't have to be tied down to one particular kit. Use what works for you, and helps you be creative.
I have two Canon DSLR bodies: an EOS 6D and an EOS... (show quote)


I couldn't agree with this more. I love my Fujifilm and now have 4 Fujifilm lenses. I really enjoy using the 55-200 mm lens. Recently bought the 56 mm 1.2 lens for portraiture. It has made travel photography so much easier. I used to lug around, as a carry on, a big pelican case to bring some of my Nikon gear. Now I can fit my Fujifilm camera and a couple of lenses in the same briefcase like bag I carry my laptop, headphones, etc. They have plans to release more lenses in the future and I will probably buy the next Pro rendition when it comes out.
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Apr 2, 2015 18:45:32   #
I recommend a smaller mirrorless system. Of course this depends on what your want to photograph. I have a large Nikon with multiple lenses but as soon as I travel I grab my Fujifilm XE-2. Going out in public with a large Nikon camera with say a 70-200 mm lens on it attracts too much attention. It's heavy and cumbersome. The small mirrorless almost looks retro and doesn't attract any attention. This helps with street photography or if you just want to be left alone while you shoot. The quality is still awesome and there are 16 megapixels which is plenty to be able to print the size you indicated.

Don't worry about megapixels this day and age as pretty much any new camera on the market can print the size you indicated.

The downside to my mirrorless is that for rapid shutter release - not so good. I would need this for say sports photography.

Another upside though is that it is a lot cheaper. With regards to the Fujifilm, their lens are excellent and some would argue they have better sensors than Nikon or Canon with better skin tone rendering.
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Mar 31, 2015 18:31:04   #
More XE-2 pictures






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Mar 31, 2015 18:25:53   #
I have a FujiFilm XE-2. I like its low profile. It makes a great travel camera and the colors are outstanding. I can't speak for the XT-1 but if its a step up to the XE-2 it should be great. The only reason I use my Nikon D4 now is for action photography or when my subject is moving a lot like pets or kids. The other downside is you can't get the same amount of bokeh with the smaller lens. I don't think it will be long and FujiFilm will have a mirrorless camera that will make my Nikon completely obsolete.






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Mar 31, 2015 18:18:22   #
When you process then export the RAW image it is no longer a RAW image. You had to convert it to a Jpeg, TIFF, PNG, or other format to get it to this website. That's why Adobe converts the RAW files to there DNG raw files, which reflects what it really is, a Digital Negative. Its the data that you work with to post process an image. To say that you're going to compare a RAW image and a Jpeg image is like asking in the analog days, which is better the print or the negative. Obviously the RAW file or DNG will give better results when using higher powered post processing software like Photoshop or Lightroom.
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Mar 24, 2015 14:56:01   #
From the tone it is pretty obvious you are trolling
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Mar 24, 2015 14:55:06   #
Jim Bob wrote:
Well process it or smocess it. I want to see the images that will hopefully help folks make an informed decision. Saying that we couldn't see a difference is counterproductive wouldn't you agree? If you can't see a difference, why do the JPG haters always maintain that everybody should shoot RAW?


I don't think you're getting the concept here. Raw is just a data set of an image. That or you are trolling.
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Mar 24, 2015 14:53:22   #
Technically this can't be a RAW. It's some other format whether it be a jpeg, TIFF, or other. It might be a RAW image that was not processed but immediately converted into one of these other formats for monitor display.
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Mar 24, 2015 14:42:25   #
If you don't post process images on a program like Lightroom or Photoshop, don't use the RAW- use jpeg.
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Mar 24, 2015 14:38:23   #
Raw will never look as good as the jpeg. It's not meant to. The jpeg is a processed version of the RAW file. The difference is that your camera has processed the RAW file according to an algorithm. The RAW file is so that you can process the image to your own liking, outside of the camera on a computer, and have all the data available.

Again the RAW file will not look as good as the jpeg because it's unprocessed.
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Jul 17, 2014 17:02:45   #
After shooting with a Nikon D4, I am switching to mirrorless for landscape, still shots, and portrature: better sensors, better color, less weight, beautiful pictures. Holding on to my D4 for action photography - only.

Mirrorless will take over the DSLRs within 5 years.
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Jul 8, 2014 14:29:31   #
CaptainC wrote:
I do a lot of facial retouching and quite a few composites requiring extractions of image parts and the mouse just does not cut it. Of course you CAN use the mouse, the pen and tablet just make this thing easier. Tracing edges in small areas is far faster. The Wacom also has a "Precision" mode that decreases the movement sensitivity to allow incredible detail work at the pixel level if needed.

Working on small details, the pen/table will save you time. The pen/tablet does not do anything you cannot do with a mouse- just easier, faster, and a more natural hand position.

It is just a tool. I find it invaluable. Others get along fine without it.
I do a lot of facial retouching and quite a few co... (show quote)


I have a Wacom tablet that I have not been using much because of the extreme sensitivity. Whenever I pick up the pen off the tablet it moves my last position. I will have to look more into this precision mode. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:23:46   #
I am a Nikon user but feel like the best sensors on the market at this time are the Fujifilm. I recommend the mirrorless Fujifilm XE-2. It has a fast autofocus, its small enough to travel with, and their lenses are being compared to Zeiss quality. They are relativley inexpensive at this time but as they become noticed they will go up. I highly recommend it. Mine is quickly becoming my go to camera over my Nikon D4. As their new models comes out I may consider selling all of my Nikon gear. The colors and focus quality are amazing. I predict Nikon will soon be asking Fujifilm to be making their sensors - again.

You can get an XE-2 with an 18-55 mm lens for $1300.
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Jan 22, 2014 14:28:50   #
Glider wrote:
BS! Currently, if a pro sports shooter is changing systems, they are going from Canon to Nikon and not the other way.
But to the point...the question evidences a misunderstanding of what controls focus and/or sharpness of a moving object. The answer is shutter speed, not f/stop. Focus on the spot where you will take the photo and speed up,the shutter speed, then forget about focus and just shoot when the object gets to your point of focus. In sunlight, you can shoot at iso 400, f/11 and 1/1000 sec and you should be fine. Be aware that many cameras refocus when the shutter release is initially depressed, so you may have to partially depress the shutter and then finish the release at the appropriate time.
BS! Currently, if a pro sports shooter is changing... (show quote)


Some nikons can be programmed to where the shutter release does just that, shutter activation only and then you have a separate button for focus. This takes away the problem with the camera automatically refocusing when you repress the shutter release button. I have found this useful, separating the two function to each with there own button.
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Jan 8, 2014 14:06:06   #
For multiple camera systems I divide it up by brand. I put Nikon lenses in one drawer. I keep Fujifilm lens in another case (I have way fewer Fujifilm lenses). I keep the camera bodies in separate cases, the main Nikon in a Pelican, a secondary Nikon in the drawer with the Nikon lenses, and the Fujifilm in a soft sided smaller cases with it's lenses.

I then have multiple other labeled containers. Most are plastic with covers.I uses multiple sizes. Some are the open top containers such as what I would use for bulkier items like tripod heads.

Container labes include, filters, batteries, cleaning supplies (2 of those), camera trigers, flashes, pocket wizards, tripod heads, lens/body caps (extras), small parts, memory (the cards are put in specific memory pelican cases which are placed in a container), tools, etc. Keep like items with like. I don't mind mixing the two brands as far as the accessories go. I will still be able to find the Fujifilm flash in the container marked flashes.

It has been a work in progress that gets revised occasionally. But I find that it is a lot easier to get out and go shooting when you can find what you need. More importantly to have the labels visible so as to remind you what you might want to take along.
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