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Canon SL2 vs Sony A6000, or use old Canon EOS-1DS
Dec 11, 2017 13:53:38   #
inbigd
 
Hello

For astrophotography if you had to choose only 1 of these which one would it be? I can't afford a new full frame camera now, want to get into astrophotography. Also want a small travel camera anyway.

Or would you use the EOS-1DS and buy a fast lens for it?



thanks

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Dec 11, 2017 14:47:09   #
robertjerl Loc: Corona, California
 
inbigd wrote:
Hello

For astrophotography if you had to choose only 1 of these which one would it be? I can't afford a new full frame camera now, want to get into astrophotography. Also want a small travel camera anyway.

Or would you use the EOS-1DS and buy a fast lens for it?



thanks

what lenses do you already have? One of them may do for your first efforts.
It doesn't have to be a real fast lens or AF since that won't factor in. My Samyang/Rokinon/Bower 14 mm f/2.8 is considered a good astrophotography lens.

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Dec 11, 2017 16:58:36   #
inbigd
 
robertjerl wrote:
what lenses do you already have? One of them may do for your first efforts.
It doesn't have to be a real fast lens or AF since that won't factor in. My Samyang/Rokinon/Bower 14 mm f/2.8 is considered a good astrophotography lens.

17-40 l f4 70-200 l f4

Thanks

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Dec 12, 2017 02:22:07   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
inbigd wrote:
Hello

For astrophotography if you had to choose only 1 of these which one would it be? I can't afford a new full frame camera now, want to get into astrophotography. Also want a small travel camera anyway.

Or would you use the EOS-1DS and buy a fast lens for it?



thanks

The Canon EOS-1DS is an old school 17MP Full Frame. Canon's first real Pro camera. It should be a good Astronomy Camera and decent street camera.
I would start with the setups you have now. 17mm for Milky Way shots and the 200mm for shots of the Orion Nebula.
Craig

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Dec 12, 2017 15:49:59   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
CraigFair wrote:
The Canon EOS-1DS is an old school 17MP Full Frame. Canon's first real Pro camera. It should be a good Astronomy Camera and decent street camera.
I would start with the setups you have now. 17mm for Milky Way shots and the 200mm for shots of the Orion Nebula.
Craig


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Dec 12, 2017 18:28:53   #
inbigd
 
Thanks, I'll use what I have. I looked at the SL2, A6000, A6300 and 80D up at Best Buy this morning. Really thought about getting the 80D (999.99, body only) but then I realized that I've been trying to justify another camera and I really can't. I've spent enough already. Plus, from what I've read, full frame is better for astrophotography anyway.

Again, thanks

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Dec 13, 2017 02:24:10   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
inbigd wrote:
Thanks, I'll use what I have. I looked at the SL2, A6000, A6300 and 80D up at Best Buy this morning. Really thought about getting the 80D (999.99, body only) but then I realized that I've been trying to justify another camera and I really can't. I've spent enough already. Plus, from what I've read, full frame is better for astrophotography anyway.

Again, thanks

Full frame is nice for astrophotography but it creates large files and in most cases you'll be shooting 30-50 subs to align and stack; a whole lot of space and processing power required. Also, a full frame sensor pushes lens/telescopes to the max, i.e.: edge effects can be very significant in astrophotography! I've found it is normally best to go with a smaller sensor and use the sweet spot of lens/telescopes. APS-C, 4/3 and smaller sensors work very well.

It all depends on what type of astro/nightscape photography you wish to tackle...

bwa

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Dec 13, 2017 11:24:25   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
I can't give any relevant comments on the camera's.
I use an APS-C for wide field sky shooting, and a 10-24 mm wide angle lens mostly. And generally 14-16 mm setting.

If I had my druthers, I long for a mirrorless camera. No wearing parts. Because when I do overnight runs, I can get into 3,000 + shutter operations.
But I always encourage to 'Run what Ya Brung'.

Before I got involved, Just a tripod and hand release of the shutter. Then an Intervalometer.
That is still the 'meat and potatoes' of my nightime DSLR use. And like Robert said, no AF, just manual.

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