amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I can't say much about the Nikon except that as a D3000-series camera, it's not able to autofocus all Nikon lenses. I think it requires AF-S... and maybe AF-P. Same with the D5000 series. You have to step up to the D7000 series or higher to be able to autofocus a variety of other Nikon lenses. There are lens/camera compatibility charts on the Nikon website and elsewhere online.

No need for concern or compatibility charts with Canon, because every EF or EF-S lens made the past 30 years will autofocus on a T6... though there is some difference in quality and performance.

Because it's the system I use and know more about, I can tell you the Canon Rebel T6 (one of their most entry-level models) is usually bundled with 18-55mm IS "II" (okay optically, but slower and noisier focusing than the "STM" version). Two-lens T6 kits usually include the EF 75-300mm "III", which is Canon's cheapest and worst tele-zoom. It has slow, noisy micro motor focus drive, lacks image stabilization and the image quality leaves something to be desired. More expensive (of course) but MUCH BETTER are the EF-S 55-250mm IS STM or EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" zooms. The earlier 70-300mm IS USM (rather than "II") also is widely available and pretty darned good. The "USM" lenses (ultrasonic focus drive) are probably about 2X to 4X faster focusing than the "STM" lens (stepper motor focus drive).... But both STM and USM are noticeably faster and quieter than the micro motor 75-300mm. This can be an important consideration when shooting quick moving subjects like birds. But typically none of these lenses are offered with the most entry-level models such as the T6.

If your budget is around $600...

To get the most bang for your buck, I'd recommend considering "refurbished" bought directly from Canon USA via their website. Refurbished Canon cameras and lenses carry the same warranty as new and often appear little different from new. For example, right now they are offering a refurbished Rebel T5i with refurbished EF-S 18-55mm IS STM and EF-S 55-250mm IS STM lenses for $560. The 18MP T5i was the top-of-the-line Rebel in its day, and has higher performance 9-point autofocus, articulated "Touchscreen" LCD monitors and various other features that the T6 lacks... Plus both the lenses bundled with it are reasonably fast/quiet focusing STM models with Image Stabilization. (https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-rebel-t5i-ef-s-18-55-is-stm-kit-with-ef-s-55-250mm-f-4-56-is-stm-refurbished) If you prefer and don't mind the higher price, this same kit is available brand new for $750 (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1213686-REG/canon_eos_rebel_t5i_dslr.html).

If you could stretch your budget a little farther to $660... Canon is offering the newer, 24MP T6i with a more advanced 19-point AF system and more, refurbished and bundled with those same two lenses. (https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-rebel-t6i-ef-s-18-55mm-is-stm-lens-kit-with-ef-s-55-250mm-f-4-56-is-stm-lens-refurbished). The same kit is available brand new for $900 (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1213683-REG/canon_eos_rebel_t6i_dslr.html).

To me, either of these higher-end, refurbished models and the lenses that come with them are a MUCH better value and choice than the T6 bundle (which I assume you're seeing at Costco or Wally-mart).

Buying direct from Canon, the refurbished cameras and lenses will include all the same accessories and documentation as a brand new camera in a store would. At a minimum you will need one or more SD memory cards, which aren't expensive (a 16GB Sandisk Extreme 90MB/sec memory card costs $11 and will hold about 500 RAW images or even more JPEGs (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1182600-REG/sandisk_sdsdxne_016g_gnci2_extreme_16gb_sdhc_u3.html/pageID/accessory). You also might want a second battery (T5i uses LP-E8, under $50... T6i uses LP-E17 that costs under $60). I also recommend getting the matching lens hoods for all lenses, which do a good job protecting them and Canon sells sold separately from many of their lenses. The Canon ET-63 hood used by the EF-S 55-250mm IS STM lens costs $25. There's also a Vello "clone" of it available for $12. The EF-S 18-55mm IS STM uses a Canon EW-63C hood that costs $23... or there's a Vello clone costing $10.

Have fun shopping!

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

Perhaps you could explain why? Especially since every time I look at the specifications on lenses, they include a mention of the Angle of View. All the ones I have seen show that an FX lens on a DX body will have a decreased angle of view, thus the "crop factor".

whatdat Loc: Del Valle, Tx.

Well said, CHG Canon.
Note to the nikon p900 postings: I just checked Cameta Camera and that camera is priced at $515 refurbished; or about $549 with some kit accessories.
Their refurbished cameras come with a 1 year warranty usually whereas the same thing from Nikon has a 90 day warranty from what I have seen. I have bought several cameras from Cameta Camera and had an excellent experience with them, for what it's worth.

Good luck to all that are interested in that camera.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Yes, but a DX lens also has an angle of view decreased from that of a lens of the same focal length on a full frame body.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

Hi Suzan,

Say you have a 100mm full frame (FX) lens. On an FX body the FOV would be 20.4 degree, the same lens on a DX body will have a 13.3 degree angle of view*. But here is the trick it does not matter if the lens is an FX or a DX type lens. A 100mm DX lens will also have a 13.3 degree FOV on a DX sensor.

HOWEVER, if you use a DX lens on a camera with a FX sensor you can get a lot of vignetting, dark areas around the outside. Because the DX lens is designed to throw a smaller spot of light than the FX lens. This can be used for creative effect. If your full frame (Nikon) camera is switched to DX mode when using a DX lens, you will not see the vignetting.

*Ref: http://www.nikonians.org/reviews/fov-tables

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

If I understand you correctly, you are commenting on the lesser view of a DX lens on an FX body - this is NOT decreased angle of view. It is because the DX lens does not cover the entire sensor of the FX camera. The FX lens DOES cover the entire sensor of the FX camera.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

The DX sensor will show the entire field captured by the DX lens, so the lens is using its full capability for "angle of view". The DX sensor will only show the central portion of the field captured by the FX lens, so the FX lens is NOT using its full capability for angle of view, and the image appears to be "cropped".

It is important to remember that each lens has a field of view that is a constant for that lens no matter on which camera it is used. The capture begins at the front of the lens, and projects it onto the sensor. Whatever the FX lens has captured, a certain portion is "lost" because the DX sensor is not large enough to capture it all. THIS is what creates the "crop factor". Described a different way, the DX lens has captured all of what you see. The FX lens has captured more than what you see - the unseen portion has essentially been "cropped" in camera.


The use of a DX lens, with its narrower angle of view on an FX sensor does not use the entire sensor, which is why there is vignetting unless you switch to DX mode. The FX lens, with its wider angle of view, will have its full image captured on the FX sensor, and therefore it will capture more of the scene than the DX lens.

Bill_de Loc: US

Ooops

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JD750 Loc: SoCal

I would seem we are in violent agreement.

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

John42

Thank you all.

I almost ordered a nikon P900. BUT, I choked. Right now I am concerned with two things.
1. Will a hand held Super zoom such as th ed one one the P900 be practical or will I need to carry a tripod or monopod?

2. Will I get a P900 only to see an announcement of the p1000 come out?

JD750 Loc: SoCal

Hand holding at high zooms is always tricky, and it depends on several things, the amount of light available, (directly related to shutter speed), how much zoom you use, the camera IS, and you holding technique. I took the attached many years ago with with a P100 the predecessor to your P900, hand held and braced against a garage wall. But if your goal is to use the P900 at max zoom, hand held, expecting consistent sharp images, well that is asking a lot. Nor will any other zoom-lens be any different.

Re (2) this is a game that we can always play. There is always a new camera, computer, phone, car, in development. Don't worry about it. Buy the camera you want and enjoy using it.

(Download)

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

1) If you zoom all the way out, or even close to it, you will have trouble without something to steady the camera.

2) I can guarantee that whatever you are using, even the latest, it will be replaced by something eventually. But if it is doing the job, who cares? If to P900 suits you for now, I wouldn't worry about a P1000. I still use my SX50 and don't care that there is a later model.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

You must mean "zoom in" as in zoom in close? Zooming "out", to full wide, would not require stabilization..

Good advice, I said virtually the same thing in the post directly above.

whatdat Loc: Del Valle, Tx.

For the individual looking for a Nikon P900 around the $500 mark; just saw a p900 refurbished on Cameta Camera for $514. Cameta's refurbished cameras come with a 1 year warranty, whereas, Nikon sells them with a 90 day warranty, I believe. I have bought several cameras from Cameta Camera in recent years and have had great service. Just a suggestion.