Blurry Photos (Page 3): As you learn, you will appreciate your a7. I have the a99ll, a65, and a6000. I like them all. As for flash, I have learned the $$$hard way that you should go...

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

lwerthe1mer wrote:

Thanks for your tips. I'm learning a lot and am also feeling rather humble re: my photographic abilities.

One question -- does the a7 have a built in flash. My a7ii does not, and I need to find a good flash for it.

Frankly, I am wondering whether my a7ii is more camera than my abilities can justify. I'm thinking about my old and sold asp-c cameras.

Many thanks.

As you learn, you will appreciate your a7. I have the a99ll, a65, and a6000. I like them all. As for flash, I have learned the $$$hard way that you should go with the camera brand flash. The Camera brand always works with your camera. Off brands are a compromise but they do cost less. You a7 does not have a pop up flash. You will need a HVL-F20m for general short distance shooting like birthday parties and Christmas. For more distance and versatility you may chose the HVL-F32m. Happy Shooting

Bobnewnan

I ran a copy through Photoshop using the "Shake Reduction" filter, cleans up nicely but I don't know how to add the new picture here to show you.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

While I have browser apps for looking at EXIF info, I was not able to see any on any of these pics, so it is difficult to give a good answer.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

what everyone else has been saying!

Diverhank

Bobnewnan wrote:

I ran a copy through Photoshop using the "Shake Reduction" filter, cleans up nicely but I don't know how to add the new picture here to show you.

You can go to Help section for instructions. Basically reply to a post but don't use quick reply and you will see at the bottom a choice "Choose File", click on that, choose your picture then press "Add Attachment". It's pretty simple. I'd really like to see your before and after pictures.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

lwerthe1mer wrote:

I took some photos at a birthday party recently. My camera was a Sony a7ii. My lens was the Zeiss 2.8 fixed lens. Based on the advice of a knowledgeable photographer, I did not use a flash. I did not use a tripod.

Several photos were fine, but a large number were not sharp. I have enclosed a sampling for your review.

To what can I attribute the blurriness? Unsteady hands? Not focusing properly?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Most all good comments.
I use the built in flash on my 7D for such occasions and get superb results. Definitely nothing blurry. In this action situation a tripod or monopod is near worthless as the people are having fun and moving and you are moving taking quick snapshots to record the fun. A flash gives good sharp photos, freezes motion (generally) and overall far superior photos in these types of activities.
Anything else you are fooling yourself.

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

I have Photoshop through Adobe's rental bundle with Lightroom, but I am a Lightroom guy. However Shake Reduction may be an interesting function for me to explore. Thanks.

Bobnewnan wrote:

I ran a copy through Photoshop using the "Shake Reduction" filter, cleans up nicely but I don't know how to add the new picture here to show you.

lwerthe1mer Loc: Birmingham, Alabama

Thanks for the info.

ORpilot wrote:

As you learn, you will appreciate your a7. I have the a99ll, a65, and a6000. I like them all. As for flash, I have learned the $$$hard way that you should go with the camera brand flash. The Camera brand always works with your camera. Off brands are a compromise but they do cost less. You a7 does not have a pop up flash. You will need a HVL-F20m for general short distance shooting like birthday parties and Christmas. For more distance and versatility you may chose the HVL-F32m. Happy Shooting

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Diverhank wrote:

Not sure you want to listen to that knowledgeable ... (show quote)

The formula for choosing a shutter speed isn't 1/FL any longer... that was for 35mm film, and holds true for full frame digital cameras, but it is 1/(FL * Crop Factor), otherwise. In other words, for APS-C, it is 1/(FL * 1.5). For Micro Four Thirds, it is 1/(FL * 2). So if I put a 25mm lens on my GH4 (a Micro Four Thirds camera), then my rule of thumb starting point for shutter speed would be 1/(25 * 2) or 1/50 second. But I might change that, depending on how much coffee I've had today... (etc.)

Another thing to check would be the focus mode. Which focus sensors are active? Choosing the correct focus point means choosing one that is directly over the principal subject. If you choose ALL points, chances are good that the camera will just focus on the closest thing it sees (which is evident in at least one of the OP's photos).

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

lwerthe1mer wrote:

Had I not spoken with the "knowledgeable photographer," I would have bounced the light from a flash off walls, etc., or used my Gary Fong diffuser. I was headed in the right direction until I got some bad advice. Incidentally the "knowledgeable photographer" was a sales person in the camera department at BestBuy. I believe he was knowledgeable, but in a limited way.

I guess I blew that shooting project. Thanks to everyone for your comments.

Leonard

Yes, bounce flash can be very effective! And often easy to set up and do. Best Buy - Worse Advice.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Bobnewnan wrote:

I ran a copy through Photoshop using the "Shake Reduction" filter, cleans up nicely but I don't know how to add the new picture here to show you.

Not quite. I tried Shake Reduction with the first image. And this image was way beyond redemption with Shake Reduction. Certain kinds of shake can be fixed. But this shake was just too much. Possibly a combination of camera shake, and subject movement. Seemed like focus wasn't very good either. But this was hard to tell since shake and movement were so prominent.

Diverhank

burkphoto wrote:

The formula for choosing a shutter speed isn't 1/F... (show quote)

The OP's camera is full frame. 1/FL applies.

Haydon

A flash will freeze the action, allow you to shoot at lower ISO and produce a faster shutter speed than 1/30 second. As Gene said, bounce flash would be a good choice.

Take a look at this video from Neil van Niekerk. Simple fix for harsh bounced light.

https://vimeo.com/20809045

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

ProfessorRagtop wrote:

Or bump the shutter speed and the ISO

Definitely! 1/30 is much slow and your camera is capable of delivering excellent images with higher ISO.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

aellman wrote:

Another way is to use flash compensation to reduce the intensity and ugliness of the light. I also
use a small plastic diffuser in front of the flash, which softens the source quite a bit.
There are a bunch of these gadgets available in various sizes. They clip onto the hot shoe
or sometimes slip over the lens barrel. >Alan

Alan, a small plastic diffuser will diminish the amount of light, and ever-so-slightly take the hardest edges off the highlights and shadows if you are close, but at distances greater than 5 or 6 ft, you won't see a difference.

Decreasing the flash output will diminish the amount of light, but it will not change the "character" of the light. It will still be harsh and flat and, well, ugly.

The most flattering light you can put on a subject is always going to come from a large source - either bounced, an umbrella, or a softbox., and it should come from a point view other than the camera's position.