Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
bridge camera auto-focus and DoF issues
Page <prev 2 of 2
Jul 9, 2017 08:51:49   #
Haydon
 
Bloke wrote:
There is a way to get BBF on an SX50, at least. For the life of me, I can't remember how I did it, but there is an option to assign one of the buttons on the back to perform this...


You might be referring to this but it isn't true BBF. It's more of a workaround. Please read very bottom.

Courtesy of DPReview

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3584250

Do you mean you want to lock focus when you half press the shutter release, but not exposure?

Simple. Half press the shutter and do AFLock (page 140). Release the shutter button. Now only AF is locked, but exposure is still settable. Half pressing the shutter with AELock (page 115) will now set the exposure. Either press the shutter button the rest of the way to take the picture or release the shutter button with both AE and AF locked. Recompose and shoot by fully pressing the shutter button in one motion.

If you go into the menu of the SX50, and arrow down to where you can assign your shortcut button, you can assign your shortcut button to AFL. This is as close to BBF as you can get. Thank you Bloke. It was through your prompting I made this change to imitate BBF.

Reply
Jul 9, 2017 09:56:15   #
neilds37 Loc: Port Angeles, WA
 
Haydon wrote:
... All my DSLR are setup with BBF but the bridge cameras don't allow that type of custom function to be programmed.


The Fujifilm HS50EXR bridge camera has BBF function available in Manual Focus mode. This camera is no longer available new at its $400 price, but can be picked up for prices ranging up to $800 used from Japan.

Reply
Jul 9, 2017 10:06:03   #
cthahn
 
Read your manual.

Reply
 
 
Jul 9, 2017 10:24:07   #
Haydon
 
cthahn wrote:
Read your manual.


Once again with admiration this is for you :)



Reply
Jul 9, 2017 10:38:55   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
cthahn wrote:
Read your manual.


I defy *anyone* to read the SX50 manual and get much out of it... It is the worst-written thing *ever*. Every paragraph refers you to another page! My first attempt at photographing Christmas lights was an exercise in frustration, as - despite having exposure set to manual - the camera ignored me and exposed for the dark background... Turns out that they have this over-ride built in, and defaulting to 'on'. I can't remember what they called it, but it wasn't obvious, and if you don't know in advance that it is there *and* what they call it, there is no way to find out how to turn it off...

Not knocking the camera here. For the money, it is one of the greatest pieces of gear out there, but the manual is absolutely useless.

I know that this will mean nothing to you, since you seem to exist just to post unhelpful comments, but maybe someone else will find it useful.

Have you *ever* made a helpful post?

Reply
Jul 9, 2017 11:29:53   #
wolkodoff1
 
I have now had an SX60 for quite a while, almost a year. Remember, you are getting an all in one, so the edges of excellence stretch a bit on boundaries of any setting. I don't use or carry my Nikon DSLR because this is just everything, but it took tinkering.

So, here is my experience. Yes, per others, pick specific point for focus. With the incredible zoom, camera shake is an issue even with an anti-shake feature. I have solved this by setting Manual, and the other programmable settings first. And yes, I do use auto on the same photo just in case. Then I stay in the same spot, whip through a photo or two with each, then go back and pick the best one. Then it's Photo Shop to the tweaking rescue. Not always the best with any one setting. The F stop is a bit of an issue as noted, but can work around it if you take something like this approach. The higher the zoom, the more you need to brace or tripod the camera in some way.

My only disappointment with the SX60 is low light performance, you do get better photos with a DSLR. However, as my next level of experimentation, those are getting considerably better. Went to a festival where I compared my photos with that of a professional with the total Nikon Zilla package, and believe it or not, most of the time they were comparible. Low light is just difficult for quasi-photographers as myself.

That said, I will stay with this type of camera, but might go to a higher MP with a mirrorless when I can find a reasonable, one zoom lens option for travel. Canon is releasing a SX70 in about 60 days, and will be curious to see how that compares. Right now, the big zoom plus reasonable performance is a great package. Enclosed photo was taken from 350 yards distance.

Puako Lava Tube
Puako Lava Tube...

Reply
Jul 9, 2017 13:08:28   #
johnala
 
Shoot manually, if you want to control your camera. The only time I use AF is when I am using a point and shoot camera that fits in my pocket.

Reply
 
 
Jul 9, 2017 13:40:50   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
Robin, most of the replies here have been addressed to the specific camera you are using,(Canon), but is not really unique.
It is a bridge camera, i.e., it has its own non-removable lens, and typically with considerable "stretch", from wide angle where
you have a wide view of everything and all seems to be in focus, to considerable telephoto distance, where, depending on
your distance to the subject, you may or may not be able to obtain a shallow depth of field.
Bridge cameras are therefore highly versatile, able to cover all sorts of situations, and in time you will appreciate that.

But what you really need to learn is how to take a picture to get what you want with any camera, since they all operate on the same
specific principles. I suggest therefore that you refer to the word "search" at the top of any one of your user pages here and you will
find a wealth of advice on learning about depth of field, focus, and exposure. There are many books available on the subject as well.
Happy shooting and we will be here for you when you run into a specific problem.

Reply
Jul 9, 2017 17:25:35   #
cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
Bridge cameras have different depth of field properties than you're used to with slr's. You'll note that the smallest aperture you can select is f/8. If you are wanting shallow depth of field, such as for close shots of flowers, try backing up and zooming in. The longer your focal length, the smaller depth of field you'll get.

Otherwise, at the wider angles f/4.5 is virtually indistinguishable from f/8. I know because I did some controlled tests with the sx50

Set your auto-focusing option as single point, center. Set white balance and ISO to auto (you might need to be in P mode for those, I can't recall for sure), ignore AEB and HDR until you have the focus and blur issues figured out.

Blurry images are most likely from your own movement or too-slow shutter speed. As mentioned, that long zoom is very unforgiving in that way.

I used an SX50 for several years, taking many thousands of photos. Post some of your shots and let's talk further. If you're shooting "fine jpg/best/highest" - whatever that's called, the image will be a good size for us to look at.

You can add photos to this topic. Click reply (not quick reply) and you'll see the area below the text box. Below is more info on how to post a photo to UHH. Be sure to enable download by checking the box titled "store original."

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/help/how_to_post_a_picture.jsp

-
Bridge cameras have different depth of field prope... (show quote)


I agree with all Linda from Maine has told you. I have the SX-50 HS (previous model to yours but quite similar) and at first I had some trouble with IQ but I found that when using the longer reach of the lens (and your is longer than mine) that camera holding and steadying technique must be very refined and practiced. Use the fastest shutter speed or the highest ISO that accommodates the scene and your image goals. Learn to take a deep breath and hold it while you take your shot. It does take practice but the results are worth it. I posted on UHH last year an image of a climber sleeping in his climbing hammock half way up the face of El Capitan at Yosemite and there was good detail visible in my hand held shot. Practice makes perfect. Good luck, your efforts will be rewarded by the excellent IQ available from your camera. Remember the shutter speed should be at the most the reciprocal of the focal length (1/fl) of the lens used for the shot..

Reply
Jul 10, 2017 16:40:13   #
moguy Loc: St. Charles, MO
 
Never could get satisfactory pictures with my SX50. I bought a Panasonic Lumix FZ 1000. Doesn't have the range, but I get far better pictures.

Reply
Jul 15, 2017 13:39:45   #
robinboulton Loc: Madison WI
 
Thanks to everyone for advice and suggestions (except for the one to "read the manual" - have you ever TRIED to read the manual for that camera? A kitten with a ball of yarn is linear by comparison).

I apologize for not responding earlier - I had to have some dental unexpected dental surgery. My advice - if you're ever invited to a molar extraction party, don't go.

So, it seems there is general agreement that this lens has some issues with DoF that maybe a 200 or 300 mm lens might not. I decided to try the suggestion of getting further away, and made some test shots. They do not seem to help a lot. The first two were made at around 20 ft from the flowers, and the second two from around 4 ft; I used the file info as file names so you can tell what my settings were.

I find them all disappointing in terms of saturation, vividness, and sharpness. All were taken from my tripod.

I plan to try the same experiment with my older Nikon and its 18-70 mm lens and its 70-300 mm lens, when I get a chance, and I'll try to post those in case there's anyone who isn't comatose by then.

If anyone has further comments I would be happy to receive them (except for "read the manual") Thank you!

1/125 sec. f/5.6 95.334mm
1/125 sec. f/5.6 95.334mm...
(Download)

1/125 sec. f/8 95.334mm
1/125 sec. f/8 95.334mm...
(Download)

1/125 sec. f/5 20.277mm
1/125 sec. f/5 20.277mm...
(Download)

1/125 sec. f/8 20.277mm
1/125 sec. f/8 20.277mm...
(Download)

Reply
 
 
Jul 15, 2017 20:47:47   #
ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or
 
Not sure what your complaint is with these photos. Your SX60 is not ever going to look exactly like your Nikon even at the same lens settings. That is because Nikon glass is different than Canon glass. Nikon Sensors are different than Canon sensors. The sensor size is different between the two cameras. The internal image program is different between the two cameras. By messing with them in a post processing program you will be able to get them close but never the exact same. You have done in the digital world the equivalent of comparing 35mm film image shot with Ecktachrome with a 2-1/4 Kodachrome. ...well sort of. To me they all look good. I like my FF, my APS-C and my old SX50 .... Each does something better than the other. Everything is a compromise. Happy Shooting

Reply
Jul 15, 2017 22:06:36   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
robinboulton wrote:
Thanks to everyone for advice and suggestions (except for the one to "read the manual" - have you ever TRIED to read the manual for that camera? A kitten with a ball of yarn is linear by comparison).



Good, isn't it? For some reason, when the 5DIII came out, Canon sent me a link to a copy of its manual - no idea why, didn't even own a Canon camera at that point! It was readable, understandable (mostly...) to someone whose last SLR was an A1, back in the 80s, pretty sensible. Then I bought the SX50, and it nearly killed me trying to make sense of the impossible manual. Seems to me, it would make more sense to produce a decent manual for a beginner's camera... Most people buying a 5D probably have a fair bit of experience of the brand, but a lot of people (like *me*) bought the SX as an intro to digital cameras. There are all kinds of features that catch you out, and even if you suspect they are there, you cannot find them without knowing what esoteric naming convention Canon came up with... The worst was the one I mentioned earlier in the thread, which kicks in to over-ride your exposure settings even on full manual, if you don't turn it off explicitly. How would someone just coming to digital photography deduce the existence of that one? I don't remember what it was called, but somebody on here helped me out, otherwise I would still be looking!

Such a shame, as the camera is a marvelous piece of kit... Doesn't compete with my 5DII or my 7DII, but for some jobs, it just can't be beat. Only camera I ever owned that let me take hand-held photos of the moon, without making it appear a tiny dot in the image!

Reply
Jul 16, 2017 14:37:50   #
robinboulton Loc: Madison WI
 
I totally agree it's a great camera, and most of my frustrations come from not knowing enough (yet). One issue I have is that I read widely on the many web sites, newsletters etc., which abound, but almost all the skills, techniques, tips and tricks refer to newer, more sophisticated gear... I'm just catching up with that concept and realizing I have to be content with what I have rather than trying to emulate the things that other cameras can do.

Thanks.

Reply
Jul 17, 2017 10:51:18   #
bull drink water Loc: pontiac mi.
 
I shoot a 30x and 50x bridge camera, at the longer focal lengths even at f16 you'll still get a narrow dof.

Reply
Page <prev 2 of 2
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.