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disappointed in my Nikon 50 mm 1.8
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Jan 28, 2016 09:16:19   #
Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.
 
I think your mistake was in getting a 'Nifty-Fifty'lens. Gimmiky name Gimmiky results. Should have asked for a 50mm. f/1.8 f/ 1.4 or f/1.2 Standard lens.

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Jan 28, 2016 09:24:46   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
kenpic wrote:
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty", a 1.8. (wanted the others, but didn't want to spend the money.) Took it to shoot a highschool basketball game last night, and did not have good luck. There seem to be a delay between when I pushed the shutter and when the camera took the photo. I am used to shooting with my 24-70 (2.8) and my 70-200 (2.8) with their quick release. Did I get a defective lens, or am I just getting what I paid for? (all plastic and inexpensive). Should I take it back and exchange for a 1.4? Will I get a better result? I am shooting a D700 at ISO 6400. The shots I took are properly exposed, just late.
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty&qu... (show quote)


You don;t say AF or AFs version. The A will be extremely slow as sports photographers found out because of the slow screw focus system. The AFs version was later added to address this problem of lack of responsiveness. So if you have the AF version likely it is working on trying to focus. Now if you have a 5xxx or 3xxx series camera AF will not work at all so if you have one of these and there is AF then you might want to see what is wrong with the lens as the AFs should not be causing any delay that I know of.

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Jan 28, 2016 09:38:53   #
steve_stoneblossom Loc: Rhode Island, USA
 
Pablo8 wrote:
I think your mistake was in getting a 'Nifty-Fifty'lens. Gimmiky name Gimmiky results. Should have asked for a 50mm. f/1.8 f/ 1.4 or f/1.2 Standard lens.


What? :?:

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Jan 28, 2016 09:40:10   #
steve_stoneblossom Loc: Rhode Island, USA
 
Architect1776 wrote:
You don;t say AF or AFs version. The A will be extremely slow as sports photographers found out because of the slow screw focus system. The AFs version was later added to address this problem of lack of responsiveness. So if you have the AF version likely it is working on trying to focus. Now if you have a 5xxx or 3xxx series camera AF will not work at all so if you have one of these and there is AF then you might want to see what is wrong with the lens as the AFs should not be causing any delay that I know of.
You don;t say AF or AFs version. The A will be ext... (show quote)


Agree re:lens, but camera is 700 (1st post).

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Jan 28, 2016 09:41:33   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
steve_stoneblossom wrote:
Agree re:lens, but camera is 700 (1st post).


Sorry missed that, looked to check but missed.

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Jan 28, 2016 10:18:39   #
Canonman333 Loc: Far Northern End of California
 
kenpic wrote:
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty", a 1.8. (wanted the others, but didn't want to spend the money.) Took it to shoot a highschool basketball game last night, and did not have good luck. There seem to be a delay between when I pushed the shutter and when the camera took the photo. I am used to shooting with my 24-70 (2.8) and my 70-200 (2.8) with their quick release. Did I get a defective lens, or am I just getting what I paid for? (all plastic and inexpensive). Should I take it back and exchange for a 1.4? Will I get a better result? I am shooting a D700 at ISO 6400. The shots I took are properly exposed, just late.
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty&qu... (show quote)


What you are experiencing is related to your camera settings. Why did you buy the 50mm lens? Test it's ability by using it for the intended purpose. The other lenses you have are good sport lenses. A 50mm is very limited in that regard.

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Jan 28, 2016 10:38:07   #
RichieC Loc: Adirondacks
 
Pablo8 wrote:
I think your mistake was in getting a 'Nifty-Fifty'lens. Gimmiky name Gimmiky results. Should have asked for a 50mm. f/1.8 f/ 1.4 or f/1.2 Standard lens.


I don't understand this...



Nikon 50's 1.8's are an easy build-manufacturing wise, where they can produce a superior quality lens for very little money. Anytime you get a "faster" version of a lens, it moves the sweet-spot of sharpness one or two usable stops above the "slowest" version of the same lens. Avoiding extremes of largest and smallest apertures will always get best results sharpness-wise. OR special effects much more pronounced such as brokeh/depth of field. Plus they takemore work to build, usually a better lens- better build. The 1.4 & 1.2's more useful as a portrait or still life, or shooting in available light.

However 50mm is not a particularly interesting size, delivering neither the wide angle nor the telephoto enhancements.. But sometimes, it is just what you need! And is a great buy...

TO THE OP:
Look up AF-s AF-c in the manual or on youtube, it is located as a button inside the lever on the bottom left side of camera just below the bayonet release in combination with main command dial. Read all about it and learn what will work best for you.

Also, if you have a smart phone, download the free Nikon app "ManualViewer" then download the entire FREE manual for JUST the camera you own and if you want, any other Nikon equipment you own. ( Like their flash's) you will always have the entire Nikon manual(s) in your pocket, which is searchable and saved bookmarkable shortcuts to areas you need reference to more often.

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Jan 28, 2016 10:48:03   #
Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada
 
kenpic wrote:
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty", a 1.8. (wanted the others, but didn't want to spend the money.) Took it to shoot a highschool basketball game last night, and did not have good luck. There seem to be a delay between when I pushed the shutter and when the camera took the photo. I am used to shooting with my 24-70 (2.8) and my 70-200 (2.8) with their quick release. Did I get a defective lens, or am I just getting what I paid for? (all plastic and inexpensive). Should I take it back and exchange for a 1.4? Will I get a better result? I am shooting a D700 at ISO 6400. The shots I took are properly exposed, just late.
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty&qu... (show quote)


I use the 50mm 1.8 at my grandson's basketball game too. I had a difficult time the first couple of times getting used to it. But now it's just fine. Try different stuff before the game starts, check exposure, focusing, etc. Practice a lot.
Good luck

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Jan 28, 2016 10:48:55   #
Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Jules Karney wrote:
I use the 50mm 1.8 at my grandson's basketball game too. I had a difficult time the first couple of times getting used to it. But now it's just fine. Try different stuff before the game starts, check exposure, focusing, etc. Practice a lot.
Good luck

Send photos to the club for comments. We can't comment on something we can't see.

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Jan 28, 2016 11:00:14   #
joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois
 
kenpic wrote:
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty", a 1.8. (wanted the others, but didn't want to spend the money.) Took it to shoot a highschool basketball game last night, and did not have good luck. There seem to be a delay between when I pushed the shutter and when the camera took the photo. I am used to shooting with my 24-70 (2.8) and my 70-200 (2.8) with their quick release. Did I get a defective lens, or am I just getting what I paid for? (all plastic and inexpensive). Should I take it back and exchange for a 1.4? Will I get a better result? I am shooting a D700 at ISO 6400. The shots I took are properly exposed, just late.
Finally broke down and got my "nifty fifty&qu... (show quote)


Suspect you have the D version. It doesn't have a motor inside the lens and relies on a screw drive to focus.

It is slower than AFS lenses especially on some cameras but other than that is a good lens.

You may not want to use it for fast action situations or learn to anticipate the key action like so many shooters have done when AFS was nonexistent.

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Jan 28, 2016 11:09:14   #
bjprovo Loc: Northeast CT
 
I respectfully disagree. I was using this lens with a D300 in poorly lit high school gyms. I was able to set it at 1.8 and then adjust my shutter speed and ISO for great results. It does, however, depend on where you are setting up for the shoot. I was close to the baseline and halfway between the basket and sideline. It allowed me to set a faster shutter speed and really freeze the action. If shooting from the stands the lens would not produce the same results.
Canonman333 wrote:
What you are experiencing is related to your camera settings. Why did you buy the 50mm lens? Test it's ability by using it for the intended purpose. The other lenses you have are good sport lenses. A 50mm is very limited in that regard.

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Jan 28, 2016 11:09:16   #
Gobuster Loc: South Florida
 
joer wrote:
Suspect you have the D version. It doesn't have a motor inside the lens and relies on a screw drive to focus.

It is slower than AFS lenses especially on some cameras but other than that is a good lens.

You may not want to use it for fast action situations or learn to anticipate the key action like so many shooters have done when AFS was nonexistent.


The OP stated on page 1 that he has the AF-S G model lens.

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Jan 28, 2016 11:52:54   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
kenpic wrote:
I'm shooting Single, not Continuous...


Never use Single (focus) where there are moving subjects. Use Continuous focus on moving subjects.

Of course if you are using Single frame instead of Continuous frame or 6fps, that's a different story.

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Jan 28, 2016 12:10:27   #
Mark7829 Loc: Calfornia
 
kenpic wrote:
I plan to shoot another game tonight and will do some more testing. May have to upgrade to the 1.4 version. I usually follow the action and have the button half way down. Works fine with my expensive lenses; just this slight delay with the new lens....


Nooooo There is a settings problem for sure and that includes proper ISO and aperture. Going to the 1.4 will not improve results. What metering modes are you using?

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Jan 28, 2016 12:18:03   #
Mormorazzi Loc: Temple, Texas
 
If you're shooting sports, I strongly urge you to set up the menu on your camera for back-button focus and shoot in AF-C with your 70-200 (for the reach). Find your subject's eye/face and mash down the back button (AE-L, AF-L if you don't have a dedicated button on your camera). Don't release the back button until after you've pressed the shutter release. I use BBF with AF-C because everything moves, except granite. My keeper rate increased dramatically when I switched. Do a search on this site for some great "how-to" links.

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