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Homemade Light Stands
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Nov 3, 2011 12:33:34   #
plieber
 
Here are photos of some stands constructed from PVC pipe. The pipe on the left has a base made from 2-inch PVC pipe held together with 3 Tee's, 3 45-degree Elbows, and 5 short length (2.75 inches) to connect Tee's and Elbows together.

The pipe on the right has a base made from 1 1/2-inch PVC pipe held together with 2 Tee's, 1 Right Angle Connector, 3 45-degree Elbows, and 5 short length (2 inches) to connect Tee's, Connector, and Elbows together.

Note: PVC pipe will fit inside another PVC pipe that is 1/2 inch bigger (e.g., a 1 1/2 into a 2, a 3/4 into a 1 1/4).

The hardest thing in making this is reaming out pipe connectors so the pipe will slide all the way in and slide easily.

The stands even without being cemented together (for portability sake) are quite sturdy. The last photo shows one of the stands holding a diffuser frame.

Homemade PVC Stands
Homemade PVC Stands...

Homemade Stand Detail
Homemade Stand Detail...

Stand Holding PVC Diffuser Frame
Stand Holding PVC Diffuser Frame...

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Nov 3, 2011 12:51:33   #
ahzwizerd2 Loc: Willowbrook, ca
 
Get construction, but how did you or where did you make the fitting to put the light or Gobo on in other words the top elbow

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Nov 3, 2011 13:12:42   #
plieber
 
ahzwizerd2 wrote:
Get construction, but how did you or where did you make the fitting to put the light or Gobo on in other words the top elbow


The top fitting is usually made from 2 X 4's. Here is a close up photo of a typical bracket.

Stand Bracket
Stand Bracket...

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Nov 4, 2011 05:43:31   #
dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida
 
Humm, your 3 footed base may, not confirmed!, be a bit lighter than the one I use - a one gallon bucket filled with concrete!! Contemplating, I am sure it will be lighter.

Good Design Job plieber congratulations and thank you for sharing.

The only other addition to the 3 footed I would make is to drill for pinning into position to prevent movement and subsequent loss of 120 degree spacing stability.

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Nov 4, 2011 11:16:27   #
JerrysPhotos Loc: Arkansas
 
I applaud your ingenuity on both the ball head and light stand, great job on both........

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Nov 4, 2011 12:40:41   #
plieber
 
dpullum wrote:
Humm, your 3 footed base may, not confirmed!, be a bit lighter than the one I use - a one gallon bucket filled with concrete!! Contemplating, I am sure it will be lighter.

Good Design Job plieber congratulations and thank you for sharing.

The only other addition to the 3 footed I would make is to drill for pinning into position to prevent movement and subsequent loss of 120 degree spacing stability.


I use large duplex (double headed) nails for pinning. However they are a pain to line up and insert. So I did not use them for the photo.

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Nov 4, 2011 12:44:29   #
plieber
 
JerrysPhotos wrote:
I applaud your ingenuity on both the ball head and light stand, great job on both........


Thanks. Obviously I'm a guy with too much time on his hands. Right now I'm working on a slidling focusing rail for macro work.

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Nov 4, 2011 15:04:45   #
Ridge runner Loc: Missouri ozarks
 
plieber, sweet concept, light weight, very portable and rust proof.
great anticipation waiting for your preview of the sliding focusing rail

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Nov 4, 2011 17:49:36   #
ahzwizerd2 Loc: Willowbrook, ca
 
Thanks now what do you use to tighten the inner pole so it doesn't slide back in the otter pole. I Love your creativity

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Nov 4, 2011 21:33:54   #
rg6guy Loc: KY
 
A macro rail would be cool. Please share it when your done. I am interested in seeing this.

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Nov 5, 2011 01:22:58   #
foghornleg90 Loc: All over USA - Medford, OR & Knoxville, TN
 
LOL - another cool design. Yeppers, you said it... 'too much time on his hands' - but it's great that you are inventive.

Your PVC stand is another production product that I'm betting you could sell on eBay... it's worth listing for those that don't want to build their own. I think I paid about $100 for one of my adjustable reflector holders, $50 for another, and $35 for the small one. They are light weight... and like my tripods, have a center bottom hook I can add weight to after setup, so the wind won't blow them over.

I'm looking forward to seeing your macro slider... you need about 10 to 12 inches of slid-ability... almost like a micrometer. I used to have one that was really awesome, but haven't seen it in years. Worked great for photographing stamps, coins, bugs, etc.

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Nov 5, 2011 01:26:16   #
foghornleg90 Loc: All over USA - Medford, OR & Knoxville, TN
 
BTW - not positive, but rather than that 'set' of 2x4's for the adjustable angles for the 'holding arm' why not change it to your ball head?!?! Granted, slightly more expensive... BUT prettier, probably stronger, and definitely smaller & lighter.

Also, how much weight can the legs stand?? if you center reverse hooked from the bottom of the upright - to attach bag for rocks or water to counter balance??

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Nov 5, 2011 11:23:13   #
plieber
 
ahzwizerd2 wrote:
Thanks now what do you use to tighten the inner pole so it doesn't slide back in the otter pole. I Love your creativity


I just drill a 13/64th hole, tap for a 1/4-20, and use a 1/4-20 bolt to hold it in place. I bend the end of the bolt for leverage (see attached photo).



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Nov 5, 2011 11:40:16   #
plieber
 
rg6guy wrote:
A macro rail would be cool. Please share it when your done. I am interested in seeing this.


I just posted photos of my focusing rail - See "Homemade Focusing Rail".

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Nov 5, 2011 11:46:43   #
dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida
 
saw it and it looks great, loved the looks of your junk box lots of inventions in there.

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