Auto ISO is great for indoor low light situations where flash isn't allowed and for any situation with high contrasts and rapidly changeing light levels.
Noise, noise and more noise.
ken_stern wrote:
Now tell me what are the benefits vs setting the aperture/shutter then dialing ISO up/down
i found auto ISO, and use it most of the time, but when it really matters, i control it myself. i found in auto ISO some of my shot,s have grain, BUT i got the shot!! a little grain is better than to dark
sinderone wrote:
I have generally kept auto ISO on and just over ridden it when called for. I am now wondering, however, if I should simply leave it off. To that end, I’m curious what others do.
Some use auto ISO and some don't. I urge you to try it for a while. I did and for the most part it did ok, but in some cases it went higher than I expected and I didn't like it. So now I just set my ISO according to the lighting conditions and the necessary shutter speed that I feel that I need, especially for low light action or wildlife.
Raddad
Loc: Lake Oswego, Oregon
Auto ISO has been an enormous asset to me when shooting wildlife and there just isn't time for a lot of adjustments. The camera knows better than I, what the lowest effective ISO is possible given my other selections. I have been manually selecting my aperture and shutter speed depending on motion of the subject and concerns about DOF. This has greatly reduced the "discards" and given me more quality images from which to select the "keepers". When shooting landscapes, there is seldom a need for rapid adjustments on the fly.
It depends on what I'm shooting. If I'm shooting in good light and shooting more or less the same type of subjects I'll set my ISO where I want. However, often I find myself moving and the light is changing fast and I may be shooting moving subjects so I set auto ISO so I can keep my shutter speed up with a reasonable aperture. Seems to work best for me this way.
sinderone wrote:
I have generally kept auto ISO on and just over ridden it when called for. I am now wondering, however, if I should simply leave it off. To that end, I’m curious what others do.
I use Manual with auto ISO when shooting active wildlife and set a maximum ISO. I use total manual for landscape or when the subject is not moving. As others have suggested, Check out Steve Perry's instructions on auto iso.
Rick
ken_stern wrote:
Now tell me what are the benefits vs setting the aperture/shutter then dialing ISO up/down
The times that I use auto ISO are when I'm at a soccer game. I shoot aperture priority and have the D500 set for a minimum 1/1,000 sec shutter speed and the camera will adjust the ISO to keep that shutter speed setting. This is because the games are played sometimes under cloudy conditions or later into the afternoon. Then you always have the condition of cloudy + late afternoon at the same time. With any soccer game, there is no "do-over"---you can't call time out and ask for the player to rekick the winning goal while I am trying to bump up ISO or any other setting. This was not a part of your question, but I also have the focus tracking with lock-on set for a mid-delay at 4 This is as close to automatic as I can get it.
Except for soccer or baseball games, I don't use auto ISO
I use auto ISO when walking about at events with rapidly changing light (like a sunny day with some people in shadows). I like M with it too. I can set shutter speed for how much I want to freeze motion and aperture for my depth of field. Auto ISO does the rest, but I make sure I have the auto settings within the realm of what I want. I also go between matrix and center weighted metering. I think it is like all settings, once you understand it and use it a bit, you can work with it to your advantage.
If your camera has it my Sony's do have minimum and maximum range allowed automatically.
I do know and can see with viewfinder when i think the scene is suffering from noise. ISO like gain on a camcorder
can be a critical way to deal with lighting conditions. I guess with a Sony a7s II a brilliant low light camera
I am very sensitive to what low light is doing to my imagery.
...when shooting my marching groups *most* of the time I'm full manual (the one exception here is when transitioning from daylight to stadium lighting, very frustrating time so I go to Aperture priority and it seems to help a bit)...even inside a gym, where lighting is very consistent good or bad I'm full manual. I find in processing, which may be 10k shots fired, I just don't want to deal with many variables since I'm using presets (per group) alot of the time. I've tried the setting and can see its usefulness, but don't really think about it when out on a casual shoot (shrug). So it's mostly set the IS0 for the circumstances for me...
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
As a sports shooter I often shoot in A or M modes and normally let the camera choose the ISO within limits as some discussed above. When I shoot sports in a gym, I normally shoot in M mode, choosing all three myself. Best of luck.
sinderone wrote:
I have generally kept auto ISO on and just over ridden it when called for. I am now wondering, however, if I should simply leave it off. To that end, I’m curious what others do.
I only use it in low light situations when you have to use a wide aperture and fast shutter to stop motion. Even then I put limit on it.
sinderone wrote:
I have generally kept auto ISO on and just over ridden it when called for. I am now wondering, however, if I should simply leave it off. To that end, I’m curious what others do.
Never use auto ISO because it usually picks to high and goes full on with 256000 at the worst of times. I know there is a limiting switch somewhere in the menu but it's simpler to pick what I need like in film days.
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