GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI

I agree with that! I’ve tried P many times and it rarely gives me a satisfactory picture. I much prefer A or S depending on the situation. If they fail me, I go to manual but never P

GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI

👍👍

texashill Loc: Texas Hill Country

About five years ago it was pointed out here by Armadillo that the P mode can be set up to allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently. That was a very helpful tip for me when shooting interior room photos with a bright window included. I have always been grateful for his post:

2. Pick a manual ISO where the flash output will illuminate the entire room ahead of the camera. (ISO = 200 - 400).
3. Set the camera mode control to "Program". This will allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently.
4. Point the camera out the window, with the center spot exposure box targeted to the bright area (not the sky), and press the back button for exposure lock. This will set the shutter duration for correct exposure out the window.
5. Point the camera "Center Spot Focus" square on the wall to be included in the composition, depress the shutter button half way. This will set focus lock for the scene and set the flash output for the room. The flash output will be controlled by the light measurement of the flash coming (TTL) through the lens.
6. Re-compose the scene in the viewfinder, make sure the center spot metering square is not near the window. Press the shutter button all the way down to capture the scene.

The above recommendations are based on decades old photographic practices with film cameras, but with the addition of modern camera electronic measurements and controls.
Michael G

Guyserman Loc: Benton, AR

Not true. Just for the record, My Canon T3i has a A-DEP mode which is Automatic Depth-of-Field. From the manual:

"All the AF points will function to detect the subject, and the aperture required to attain the necessary depth of field will be set automatically."

GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI

My first DSLR was a Nikon D5000 and I used Auto the first year or so that I had it. I got great pictures, too and it was a big step up from my Canon Power Shot G5.

I didn’t even know what P was for.

When I decided to learn my camera, I read Bryon Peterson’s book, “Understanding Exposure” and I was advised to use A mode until I learned it, then learn S mode, and lastly, Manual mode. I still didn’t know what P mode did; so, I tried it after learning A & S and didn’t like it.

But, that’s just me.

BebuLamar

Yup! Caused I am not the pros.

GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI

Very interesting way to use the P mode. I will have to try that! Thanks for this post, Mike

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Since I'm not a Canon user I never encountered this. It's a pretty kludged approach so it's no surprise that it has not caught on with other camera makers. Once you understand DOF and play with a DOF calculator you will see why. Take a look at TUTORIALS: DEPTH OF FIELD.

See also DEPTH OF FIELD CALCULATOR, read the accompanying explanation and click on show advanced to learn what else is involved. But even that explanation does not go far enough. It leaves out the effect of cropping the image during post processing.

BME Loc: Roswell, New Mexico

Hello, I really enjoy the P setting on my Nikon. As all programmed settings, I have found that they will all fail at times according to the conditions shot in. But, for the most part with plenty of natural light, the P setting is great. I also use all of the other offerings again depending upon the conditions; light, partial background light, clouds, darkness with no light, etc...... I use the manual mode when I know none of the other auto or programmable modes can attack the present conditions. The manual modes are the ticket when I know the other programs will certainly not do the composition justice and come second nature, for I shot 35MM for many years, all manual.

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

I do. Let me see..... The manufactures spend millions on all the functions on cameras to work 95% of the time why not use them. Not using the functions is like taking your car out of "D" and using 1,2,3 all the time. There is a time and a place for everything. All the nay Sayers use the light meter on their camera most of the time don't you? Most of you use the AF most of the time? Why not the other functions too.

BME Loc: Roswell, New Mexico

chfrus, I too have jobs that require the one shot and there usually are no seconds. You get it or you missed it. I am sure that we would all agree that knowing ones equipment thoroughly speeds up the process of yielding great pictures and cuts down on the throw aways. Again, P (depending on the parameters one sets) works pretty well most of the time. I can not use the programmed or auto programs exclusively, for the information they transmit to the shot sometimes is not at all what I want. I will say that the deciphering abilities of the now digital world have stepped up through the years and give the SLR's more flexibility on the auto modes. But............sometimes they read the conditions differently than again, what I want to see in the composition.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Not all. Chimping and watching for blinkies while using Manual is much safer than letting the camera set the exposure.

I hardly ever use the camera's light meter because it measures reflected light and it's wrong most of the time (although not by much). I have better results with Sunny 16, a separate light meter or just based on my own experience.

And since most of my lenses are manual focus, I don't use autofocus very often either. However, it's nice to have some focus confirmation in the viewfinder from a camera that is capable of autofocus.

AndyGarcia

I use P most of the time with my Nikons. Easy to adjust aperture/speed combinations. I shot manual all my life using film Nikons. I use it some of the time on my Fujis. Most of the time I use "A" and do fine adjustment with other controls. It works well. It's quick and pretty good for my shots - particularly surfing and wildlife. If I have the time and space I'm very happy to use manual settings but generally I do not and shooting "M" would mean I might miss it.

In the end it's what ever suits you. I'm no purist when it comes to taking photos.

drklrd Loc: Cincinnati Ohio

I don't do auto ISO. Camera tends to go to highest setting in a basketball court when it does not have to go that high. Yes, I preview (chimp as UHH calls it) when I arrive at a sports shoot. As well as during the shoot to check the numbers the camera is using in either aperture or shutter auto and I watch the meter in camera to maintain correct exposure. Since I get paid for what I shoot I want as perfect a jpeg as possible. I do no editing as the jpegs are what I deliver. I will edit for a portfolio shot but not for the studio shots. On occasion I if a mistake happens I will correct it pulling up the shot in Adobe raw. Yes, you can do some raw type editing and do it in bulk jpegs (as in more than one jpeg at a time) in Adobe. Never use any auto except for shutter priority or aperture priority just like in 35mm days. I trust my camera only after it has served me well enough to trust it. I do find I need to adjust flash 1/3 stop in flash mode and sometimes 1/3 stop in exposure depends on lightning and what I see on screen as a preview and then sometimes that preview can fool you by about 1/3 stop. Especially when the surrounding ambient light you view it by is either high or low. I shoot sports with 2 D7200's carried on sling and vest with extra lenses in pockets of vest. I change cameras to change lenses as I did in old 35mm days. back in 35mm days you sometimes carried a third camera just in case you wanted a color shot when shooting B&W or if shooting color you wanted to shoot a few chromes(slides). Both D7200's are set for the same setting in the camera and that includes the extra focus the camera can use on each lens. All lens data on each lens in focus is set to same setting in both bodies.

drklrd Loc: Cincinnati Ohio

I use auto focus because there is no split image focus screen or anything but a little white dot to confirm focus. When shooting sports watching that dot makes me miss shots.