apolloshep

I took the following picture of a polar bear through glass at a zoo. I did dehaze the photo with post processing software which made it a bit better and this picture is the dehaze image. On the left side of the photo you can still see the haze present and the bear looks a bit out of focus. Some of the other photos show a green tint or a reflection of someone next to me behind the glass. I did not bring a polarizing filter with me. My question is what would be the proper filter to use with my lens and or a different lens this photo was taken with a Canon 100 - 400MM L series lens. I did have an UV filter on the lens at the time? I would guess there would be no perfect solution to take this photo as it was behind glass. Just would like someone to shed some light on the subject.

Thanks

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SteveR Loc: Michigan

I've taken pictures of fish, etc., in my son's aquarium merely by pressing the lens totally against the glass without using any filters.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I would NOT use a filter on the 100-400L.

pmorin Loc: Huntington Beach, Palm Springs

It can be as simple as you want it to be. A cut T-shirt (black) with some duct tape or gaffers tape. Plus the cloth can double as a neck protector if you wear it on your head with a hat on top. Extra shade on a hot day.
Here is a link to the page this photo came from:
http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/2473/how-to-shoot-photos-through-a-window/

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

The method I use is to place the lens on the glass, making sure it's clean on your side. This prevents any stray reflections in the glass showing up in the photograph, it won't matter if you are using a lens hood and if you need to tilt the camera slightly you will not get any reflection in the picture.

agillot

a polarizer would do it .

chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

Using a circular polarizer will eliminate glare from the glass. Refelctions of others and you on the glass will remain. Using a rubber hood on the glass works, but limits what images you can get.

apolloshep

Thanks all for your thoughts I will try these next time I have to shoot though glass

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

When having to shoot through glass or Plexiglas such as subjects like storefront display windows, display cases, dioramas at museums, at zoos and aquariums, a CPL (Circular Polarizing) filter is pretty indispensable. It will help "cut through" reflections from the outer surface of the glass to various degrees depending on the adjustment of the filter, as it is rotated, and the angle at which the camera is placed in relation to the glass surface and the ambient light source

It will solve many refection issues but remember that window glass, plate glass is not crystal or optical glass and and may introduce some interference or image degradation that polarization will not remedy. In certain transparent plastics, polarized light can produce colorful interference patterns. Certain safety, automotive , shatter proof and security (bullet proof) glass are made of, laminated with or encased in plastics that create "strange" stuff when polarization is introduced.

If you can come right on the glass and still have enough space to accommodate your shot, you don't need the CPL filter unless you want to control reflections on the subject or improve the color saturation on foliage- I have done that in photographing terrariums. I have a very thin modified lens shade with black felt material glued to the outer rim to avoid damage to glass and transparent plastic surfaces. When working in museums and other public exhibition venues, I always secure permission to work against the glass with my special rim.

On subjects like small aquariums, if you are stuck without a CPL filter you can tent the area with black cloth or FOAM-COR panels to block ambient light for striking the outer surface of the glass. Oftentimes, curbing or controlling reflection is a matter of understanding the ANGLE OF INCIDENCE theory, that is, the angle if incidence is equal tot the angle of reflection. Basically, if you know where the refection is coming from you may be able to block it.

If you need to reproduce a picture or a document that is framed behind glass and can not be removed, excellent results can be achieved by placing acetate polarizing filters on the lights, each a 45 degrees to he subject, in conjunction with a CPL filter on the camera.

I hope this helps.

apolloshep

Thank you good information

Pixeldawg Loc: Suzhou, China

You really answered your own question. Bring that Polarizer with you or carefully place the camera directly in contact with the glass. In my first post here in the gallery, I had a similar situation and this is my normal work-around.