Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Shooting mode question
Page <<first <prev 5 of 6 next>
Apr 15, 2018 15:11:44   #
Hal81 Loc: Bucks County, Pa.
 
At 67 your just a young whipper snapper. You should want to control your every shot. I say try every thing. We don't have to buy film any more. If you don't like the shot, hit the delete button. Or better yet wait till you download to your computer. You can do all kind of things to improve the shot, except the focus. Not too much you can do to fix that. Hay Im soon to be 88 and still learning every day.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 15:55:39   #
Psergel Loc: New Mexico
 
Boy.....This is a subject that, for some reason, can actually bring forth strong emotional response......especially from some of the manual only guys.

For us "older guys" using "manual" wasn't an option......it was all there was. You're doing the right thing using manual to get familiar what controls what and the effects the controls have on the image.
Once you get comfortable with that you should try some of the "semi automatic" modes such as Aperture priority. It's what I use most of the time.

I shoot primarily birds and often do not have the time to "fiddle" with both aperture and exposure while trying to track a bird through light and shadow and back to light.
I set my ISO based on overall lighting conditions, pick a suitable aperture (usually close to wide open) and let the camera choose the necessary shutter speed. If I know I'll be trying to shoot birds in flight I might go for shutter priority so I can "stop" the bird with a set high shutter speed.

I'd go back to manual if I were shooting something that was likely to stand still long enough for me to get the exposure "dialed in".

Learn your way around manual.....and AV......and TV.
Also how to use Exposure Compensation in these auto modes. There are good uses for all of them.
'

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 15:56:40   #
ecurb1105
 
OneShotOne18 wrote:
Hey, I am new here on this forum as well a newbie photo taker. All this ISO's, aperture, shutter speed, priority modes and manual and how and why and when to use then is downright OVERWHELMING. I want to thank each of you who answered this post. This clarifies the haze on my photographic mind. THX!!!


Welcome to the hobby, profession, obsession that is photography.
Try using the P mode, I use that one as my primary setting on my digital cameras. I find it the most useful at least eighty percent of the time.

Reply
 
 
Apr 15, 2018 16:04:37   #
Photocraig
 
marciamyers wrote:
Many thanks to all who have responded with such great info. I have no friends doing photography so asking a direct question here and getting so much help from experienced folks is very beneficial and greatly appreciated!


CORRECTION: Marcia, now that you're part of this forum you have a whole lot of friends doing Photography. You've only met us in this unique (never taught in kindergarten) way.

These posts have given you enough insight to explore your choices in more depth. I think the best approach to the modern DSLR is to view every capability as a choice or option. Some of the choices go deeper than others like biasing the shutter speed to keep the lens in its sweet spot is an amazing strategy to make the very most out of the mid grade lens offerings which are quite good. My theme, here, is that the very expensive pro gear, particularly lenses, are fantastic. But the results for 80-90% of the shots are indistinguishable from the mid level and priced lenses. It is in the extremes of conditions like rain/snow/dust, very low light, very fast movement that the pro lenses (Canon "L" as example) become essential.

Hang in and learn with us. I appreciate reading well worded questions from people like you.
C

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 18:34:56   #
D850 Lover
 
The different modes can become confusing at times. I would suggest you go to You Tube and check out their tutorials on the different modes of setting for your camera. I have learned a wealth of information from them. Good luck. Take a lot of photo's, keep notes and experiment. But have fun.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 18:40:09   #
mas24 Loc: Southern CA
 
marciamyers wrote:
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased an entry level (1st DSLR) Nikon D3400 in December. Having a great time with it, have shot exclusively in manual mode to learn how to use the camera and maneuver the different settings and have learned more than I ever realized I did not know, but still lots to learn. Am wondering when and why you would use shutter priority or aperture priority over manual mode.....I can guess it would speed things up but if that is the case when would you know to use those settings? Thanks for any input you can give.
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased... (show quote)


Welcome to the forum. Your D3400 DSLR is an entry-level camera that has enough features. It has 24 megapixels, which makes it capable of good resolution. Everyone does not shoot in Manual Mode, and everyone doesn't shoot in Automatic either. Experiment with all the modes. Then select your best suited mode. You have choices.

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 00:16:48   #
drmike99 Loc: Fairfield Connecticut
 
pithydoug wrote:
Manual is fine if you always have the time to do the settings. I use aperture priority for 99% of my landscape shots, especially sunrises and sunsets when the light is rapidly changing. Can I recompute the settings for each picture, sure, but why, the camera does a darn near perfect shutter setting. Tripod, set ap, Iso 100, cable release(or 2 sec timer), enjoy the rise or set and simply click when you want. The only time I need to touch the camera is if i want to change the where I'm aiming. It's not laziness but I would end up using the same shutter speed if I played manual. I'd rather not spend my time playing with the settings but enjoying the view.

I use shutter priority when shooting sporting events. I guarantee if you try to shoot in manual mode, you will miss THE shot while playing with the dials. During action photography you are constantly scanning for the basketball stuff, hockey goal, running battle for the finish, the babies first step, etc, etc.

There is a reason all that technology is built in.

In middle of the day where light is constant or in a studio I'll flip to manual as I'm looking for single shot. Bottom line, when you have the time, fine, when time is factor try one of the bias modes.

And depending on one's cameras AUTO ISO an be a savimg grace.
Manual is fine if you always have the time to do t... (show quote)


Just out of curiosity, I wonder how many of us who learned photography back in the 50s to 70s and have/had a long history of film photography, do NOT allow the ISO to float but keep it fixed (for a given situation) and then either go full manual or use aperture or shutter priority?

Reply
 
 
Apr 16, 2018 00:44:19   #
szoots
 
I started shoot SLRs in the late 60s and still experimenting with floating ISO. But I do use all the other modes and love it.

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 01:07:37   #
wesm Loc: Los Altos CA
 
marciamyers wrote:
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased an entry level (1st DSLR) Nikon D3400 in December. Having a great time with it, have shot exclusively in manual mode to learn how to use the camera and maneuver the different settings and have learned more than I ever realized I did not know, but still lots to learn. Am wondering when and why you would use shutter priority or aperture priority over manual mode.....I can guess it would speed things up but if that is the case when would you know to use those settings? Thanks for any input you can give.
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased... (show quote)


If you are shooting something that's moving fast, you might want to force the shutter speed to be above a certain setting, say 1/1000 sec. Shutter priority will do this, and adjust aperture and ISO to get a reasonable exposure.

If you want shallow depth of field, or conversely want to get the star effect on the setting sun or a bright streetlight, you want to keep the aperture at a certain setting. Aperture priority will do this, and adjust shutter speed and ISO.

BUT, the danger is that aperture priority will set the shutter speed too low to hand hold, or either one will set the ISO so high you get a lot of noise.

I usually shoot manual, but will do shutter priority for birds, planes, etc.

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 02:20:33   #
swartfort Loc: Evansville, IN
 
drmike99 wrote:
Just out of curiosity, I wonder how many of us who learned photography back in the 50s to 70s and have/had a long history of film photography, do NOT allow the ISO to float but keep it fixed (for a given situation) and then either go full manual or use aperture or shutter priority?


I was one of those guys. I was so afraid to shoot above ISO 800 (just an old bad habit). What I am finding with the new sensors and some simple post processing is that high ISO... up to about 6400 can produce some amazing results. Granted, I am not blowing up to billboard size, but 16x20 are just fine and not too noisy. I always keep low ISO in mind, but low ISO today relative to high ASA of film days is WAY different.

Remember, pixels are free. Experimenting with new settings can open up a whole new world of results (both good and bad!!)

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 07:21:46   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
drmike99 wrote:
Just out of curiosity, I wonder how many of us who learned photography back in the 50s to 70s and have/had a long history of film photography, do NOT allow the ISO to float but keep it fixed (for a given situation) and then either go full manual or use aperture or shutter priority?


Interesting question. I suffered with fixed ASA often having the wrong speed film. When digital came out, changing ISO(ASA) from shot to shot was a gift from heaven. I was a reformed drunk on the spot...so to speak...and never looked back.

As with others my goal is always ISO 100. In very specific less than perfect light I can set it to to higher fixed volue. OTOH, I shoot a fair amount of running races where light changes with the speed of runners. I shoot manual - set Ap and shutter so I get proper DOF and no blur. I then flip to AUTO ISO and simply fire away. Allows me foucus on action which is rapidly changing and not have play with any dials. Worse case I get some high ISO but better to get THE shot with a bit of noise than miss out. Besides with with newer cameras ISO one to two grand is nothing. Toss in LR/PS. etc and noise becomes passe.


I loved my film but digital is phenomenal. Like moving from the outhouse to an indoor heated loo. :) :)

Reply
 
 
Apr 16, 2018 07:28:21   #
swartfort Loc: Evansville, IN
 
pithydoug wrote:
Interesting question. I suffered with fixed ASA often having the wrong speed film. When digital came out, changing ISO(ASA) from shot to shot was a gift from heaven. I was a reformed drunk on the spot...so to speak...and never looked back.

As with others my goal is always ISO 100. In very specific less than perfect light I can set it to to higher fixed volue. OTOH, I shoot a fair amount of running races where light changes with the speed of runners. I shoot manual - set Ap and shutter so I get proper DOF and no blur. I then flip to AUTO ISO and simply fire away. Allows me foucus on action which is rapidly changing and not have play with any dials. Worse case I get some high ISO but better to get THE shot with a bit of noise than miss out. Besides with with newer cameras ISO one to two grand is nothing. Toss in LR/PS. etc and noise becomes passe.


I loved my film but digital is phenomenal. Like moving from the outhouse to an indoor heated loo. :) :)
Interesting question. I suffered with fixed ASA ... (show quote)


Well said. That is how I shoot most often

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 11:41:42   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
marciamyers wrote:
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased an entry level (1st DSLR) Nikon D3400 in December. Having a great time with it, have shot exclusively in manual mode to learn how to use the camera and maneuver the different settings and have learned more than I ever realized I did not know, but still lots to learn. Am wondering when and why you would use shutter priority or aperture priority over manual mode.....I can guess it would speed things up but if that is the case when would you know to use those settings? Thanks for any input you can give.
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased... (show quote)


Some folks think that manual mode is the only one you should use. Like any form of automation is a bad thing.

Fact is, all of the exposure modes are useful for certain situations.

Manual is great when you have the time to set it up and the shooting situation allows it to be used. When lighting is consistent, why not lock down your settings and be certain of your results?

But when lighting is variable... or when a subject is moving in and out of different lighting conditions... sun one moment, shade the next, something halfway in between a second later.... it's pretty much impossible to use manual mode. At least, if you want accurate exposures in all the different lighting, M won't work.

That's when the various auto exposure modes are useful or even necessary... and why you should learn how they work and practice with them.

Shutter priority is useful when your most important consideration is stopping subject movement... or deliberately blurring it in your images. You select the shutter speed and the ISO, the camera selects what it "thinks" is an appropriate aperture, based upon the meter reading of the scene in front of it. A fast shutter speed will freeze movement while a slower one will let it be blurred in an image. The speed and direction of a subject determine what speeds are needed, and that comes with practice and experience.

Aperture priority is important when you want to control depth of field in your images... shallow effects that make a subject stand out against a blurred down background or very deep DoF that renders everything crisply sharp from near to far.... it's your choice. You set the aperture and the ISO, the camera selects a shutter speed it "thinks" will render an accurate exposure based upon the meter reading of the scene. Lens focal length, distance from you to the subject and from the subject to the background, etc. are the determining factors how DoF will be rendered and how strong background blur, for example, will be.

Program mode is sort of a "point n shoot" auto exposure method. I use it when I need to make a very fast change and simply don't have time to stop and thing about it.... such as I've been shooting an event indoors and need to step outside and make one or two shots, then return to what I was doing. No time to meter the scene and decide what the outdoor lighting requires.... so I switch to P, leaving the ISO where I already had it set and let the camera choose both aperture and shutter speed. I know that in reasonably good light it will default to a shutter speed fast enough to freeze moderate movements and that it will usually use a middle aperture where there will be plenty of DoF... but I'm not too worried about either of them. One nice thing about using P this way, is that when I'm done and return to the mode I'd been using and the shooting I'd been doing, the settings I was using are still there... I don't need to reset things other than shifting the mode dial from P to whatever I was using.

On many cameras today there is now another auto exposure mode... Manual + Auto ISO. Some folks go on about how they "only shoot manual" (like that's a good thing), then I find out they are using Auto ISO with it. They're fooling themselves. Using Auto ISO with M is no longer manual. It's just another auto exposure mode. The photographer gets to select the shutter speed and the aperture, but the camera will choose what it "thinks" is an ISO that will make a correct exposure based upon metering the scene in front of it. That can have it's uses, too... though I think Auto ISO is massively over-used by folks who really don't understand it. There can be times when you want control over both shutter speed to stop movement and aperture to control DoF.... but are less concerned about the ISO that's used.... say if generally adequate lighting will not cause ISO to be too high, where images would become unacceptably "noisy" (high ISOs also reduce dynamic range and resolution.... but most folks just fret about noise).

Auto ISO can be enabled when using the other AE modes... aperture priority, shutter priority and program. I really can't think of any instance where that would be helpful and useful, though. In fact, seems to me it would be sort of a gamble what an "auto auto" mode would do. So I only ever use Auto ISO with M... and probably a lot less frequently than some people.

Your camera's mode dial probably also has a series of "scene modes".... a little icon of a "running man" for sports, a "mountain" for scenics, etc. Those are sort of super-auto modes. They not only automate exposure, using what the camera designer thought was appropriate from the above AE choices for different types of photography, but also forcing you to use particular autofocus setups, controlling image factors such as contrast & color saturation, selecting the frame rate that will be used, even only allowing you to save a certain type of file or forcing the flash to operate, and more. Frankly, these are all things I want to choose for myself. So when I use a camera with "scene modes", I never used them. Some more advanced cameras don't even have these modes or they hide them in a menu instead of cluttering up the mode dial with them.

There may be some other things on that mode dial.... such as "Auto" (on Nikon... "A+" on Canon... others?). Most cameras have it and it's like a "camera phone" or "point n shoot" mode... let the camera make ALL decisions. Just point n click. (And pray it works.)

Some cameras have user definable custom settings, video mode, or other functions on the mode dial.

I don't know about Nikon, but many Canon also have a "CA" mode, which is "creative auto" and is sort of built in learning tool. It provides a "wizard" on the camera's LCD screen that guides you through making settings. Of course, doing that is slower, but it's a great way to learn how things work and the effects different adjustments will have on your images.

But the "real" exposure modes on that dial on a Nikon are A, S, P, and M... plus Auto ISO, which probably in a menu instead. (Canon calls them Av, Tv, P & M... others may label differently)

This is really just scratching the surface of a complex subject. I highly recommend you get a copy of Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure"... read it, study it, learn it. Might be the best $15 or $20 you ever spend on your photography!

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 11:44:44   #
photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA
 
I normally shoot Manual, but I will shoot in Shutter Priority when I shoot moving water and want it to "flow". I don't like turning it milky white, but that's a preference.

I will shoot in Aperture Priority mode when shallow depth of field is important.

When I'm out and about I will often shoot in P-mode because I lost the shot of a beautiful deer as I walked in the woods. The deer was close by and by time I got my settings straight the deer was gone. I missed a great shot.

Reply
Apr 16, 2018 13:25:43   #
Photocraig
 
drmike99 wrote:
Just out of curiosity, I wonder how many of us who learned photography back in the 50s to 70s and have/had a long history of film photography, do NOT allow the ISO to float but keep it fixed (for a given situation) and then either go full manual or use aperture or shutter priority?


That's my tendency, too. I'm using shutter priority more often now to eliminate (ha!) camera shake. I still can't decode a reason for using the equivalent exposure Program mode. If ya can figure out that you need to change an exposure setting, the setting to change should be obvious (A or S) too--huh?

Love the Avatar. I shot a lot of K25, but switched to E-6 later because of easier processing and more ASA choices.

Reply
Page <<first <prev 5 of 6 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.