Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Shooting mode question
Page <<first <prev 4 of 6 next> last>>
Apr 15, 2018 12:50:45   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
kdogg wrote:
I use manual with floating ISO for BIF, set shutter speed to freeze motion and adjust fstop according to background...
the f/stops here wrote:
Try having fun using manual exposure mode. Pick and set your shutter speed and pick and set your aperture. Now for the fun. Set your ISO to auto and let the cameras computer be happy by giving it something to do. You can now concentrate on being creative and have some fun.
srt101fan wrote:
Right on!!!I would only add that you should keep an eye on the camera's meter to make sure you don't over expose because the ISO has reached its lower limit. Also should learn about Exposure Compensation for the more difficult light situations.


Exactly how I've been doing for two years. Along with setting shutter speed appropriate for the motion of the subject, I now need to keep fairly high because of my own "wobbliness." My interests are all over the place and my favorite shots are more about right time/right place, fleeting moments without time to adjust, or an instinctive, "Oh that will work!" rather than methodical set-ups and metering. Auto ISO with manual control of shutter speed and aperture was a revelation!

To the OP, enjoy your journey to your own favorite "mode"

P.S. to another question in this topic: Program mode on any camera I've used has an option for exposure compensation, where Automatic does not. If you set exposure compensation when in P mode, you may wish to try some controlled tests to determine if the camera is changing only one, or both, shutter speed and aperture.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 13:02:02   #
Ron Dial Loc: Cuenca, Ecuador
 
If you use aperture priority you can control the shutter speed so it does not go too low to get a non blurred image. This is what I use most of the time. If you use shutter priority, then you have a harder time controlling the depth of field. Use this when depth of field does not matter.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 13:11:56   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
That's correct. I post mostly landscapes. However, I also shoot sporting events. I apply the same approach to those, as well. I just don't post them. In the case of sporting events, such as Gaelic Football, I'll arrive prior to the game, scout out the locations I'd like to use for photographing, what lies behind the field in those locations, and what the weather is like. Broken clouds are no problem. I choose a shutter speed that is between the slowest and fastest I'll need to use. If a cloud creates a 'darker' moment, I can easily drop the shutter speed. Brighter, increase shutter speed. Those minor changes didn't affect the image negatively and were easily accommodated in processing.

The horse/rider competition I mentioned earlier, started at 9AM and didn't finish until a bit after 3PM. There was a change in lighting and lighting direction during the event, including a few clouds. That was easily managed by slight adjustments to shutter speed. One just needs to maintain a cognizance of what is going on around, as well as in, the camera.
--Bob

tdekany wrote:
There is a reason why you have options on these cameras. First of all, shooting fully in manual mode is not going to make you a better photographer, but it sure seems that many likes to brag about it, like it is going to make you something special. I guess it feeds their big egos.
Secondly, if you follow Bob, you will see that he mostly shoots landscape. Landscape doesn’t move. So you have all the time to fiddle with settings.

But if you are shooting anything that moves, shutter priority is your friend. Try making adjustments between shots while shooting birds in flight as the light changes.
There is a reason why you have options on these ca... (show quote)

Reply
 
 
Apr 15, 2018 13:19:05   #
BebuLamar
 
Wmetcalf wrote:
Not if you are shooting fast moving subjects in changing light. There is a place for manual mode but some situations are better handled by automatic settings. You paid for them, use them.


But if you don't want the automatic settings you have to pay more and a lot of time you can't afford it. So I bought a camera with a lot of automatic settings but don't use them because I really save money by having them on.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 13:21:16   #
Pro1
 
Amen apature @ F4 or F5.6 in any lens will give you the best quality output. As I pro I always use aperture.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:06:45   #
Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.
 
BebuLamar wrote:
But if you don't want the automatic settings you have to pay more and a lot of time you can't afford it. So I bought a camera with a lot of automatic settings but don't use them because I really save money by having them on.



Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:13:19   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
rmalarz wrote:
I'll tell you why. In manual mode, the photographer is in control of the settings, not the camera. In reality, once the photographer decides he needs to catch the action, shutter speed is considered first. If it's DOF, the aperture is selected first. Whichever is selected as a priority, the other adjustments are made accordingly. That's why.

I'll do the thinking, I'll leave it to the camera to capture the photograph.
--Bob


Agree. If you understand the relationship between aperture and shutter duration—and are in control of the exposure....

Reply
 
 
Apr 15, 2018 14:15:45   #
BebuLamar
 
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Agree. If you understand the relationship between aperture and shutter duration—and are in control of the exposure....


And the OP obviously understand that otherwise he would not be able to use the manual all these times.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:21:01   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
BebuLamar wrote:
And the OP obviously understand that otherwise he would not be able to use the manual all these times.


Yes. Since the OP “gets it” he/she has all the tools needed.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:27:04   #
swartfort Loc: Evansville, IN
 
marciamyers wrote:
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased an entry level (1st DSLR) Nikon D3400 in December. Having a great time with it, have shot exclusively in manual mode to learn how to use the camera and maneuver the different settings and have learned more than I ever realized I did not know, but still lots to learn. Am wondering when and why you would use shutter priority or aperture priority over manual mode.....I can guess it would speed things up but if that is the case when would you know to use those settings? Thanks for any input you can give.
New to group and photography...am 67 and purchased... (show quote)


I too got my d3400 in December and have been playing (LEARNING) so much, often with some general direction here and then to my camera to experiment. Here is what I have discovered in my limited time (for what is worth):

I use Manual most of the time. Once I figured it out, I found that my image IQ (color saturation and noise quantity) was better controlled by me than the camera.

I found the best use of A (aperture priority) was for really slow and/or still objects/images that I wanted to control the DOF (depth of field) and/or see if I could create the illusive "bokeh" that we see mentioned all the time.

I found the best use of S (shutter priority) for fast objects that might be moving thru varying degrees of light. (think kids soccer under lights, or birds in flight thru shadows etc.) This allows me to keep the shutter speed up and eliminates motion blur created by movement in the object, or me trying to catch it as it moves.

I have not really figured out where/how to use the P setting yet.

Here are a couple of results (as always, they are better downloaded):

This was aperture priority. I tried (failed) to control DOF
This was aperture priority.  I tried (failed) to c...
(Download)

Shutter priority. wanted to freeze motion with high shutter speed
Shutter priority.  wanted to freeze motion with hi...
(Download)

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:28:56   #
Tronjo Loc: Canada, BC
 
rmalarz wrote:
Tronjo, I'll use both, internal and handheld. It just depends on the circumstances. If a handheld, it will more than likely be my Sekonic L-758DR set to the profile for the digital camera I'm using. Either way, I'll adjust the meter reading to place the metered area in the Zone I wish it to be in the final image. I use spot metering almost exclusively. Much as I mentioned in my post. I'll determine whether DOF is important or capturing action or both. The final parameter is determined by that preference.

A while back I photographed a horse/rider competition. The surroundings were less than visually amenable. So, I picked an aperture that would sufficiently blur those backgrounds but keep horse and rider sharply focused. Also needed was selecting a shutter speed that would capture the motion of horses jumping, trotting, etc. After those choices were made, in this case, I needed to adjust the ISO to provide a suitable exposure.

I view taking a photograph as system engineering. The system is the shutter, the aperture, and the ISO. The idea is to adjust the components of the system to optimize their performance and produce a product one wants. I hope this answered your question.
--Bob
Tronjo, I'll use both, internal and handheld. It j... (show quote)

Thanks for clarifying it Bob. When using the internal meter, I somehow cannot get the difference between A or S modes + Exposure compensation from one side and the full Manual from the other, all other variables equal.

Reply
 
 
Apr 15, 2018 14:38:43   #
swartfort Loc: Evansville, IN
 
Pro1 wrote:
Amen apature @ F4 or F5.6 in any lens will give you the best quality output. As I pro I always use aperture.


Granted I am not a PRO... and I don't have the luxury of "pro glass", but....

I have found that my various lenses have various "sweet spots" for example, my nikor af-s 70-300 4.5-5.6g ED lens at the long end "250-300mm" is way sharper at f/7.1 or f/8 than it is at wider (lower numbered) aperture settings. I find my shorter lenses are better at wider aperture settings. Anecdotal I know, but it is what I have found.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:49:18   #
Tronjo Loc: Canada, BC
 
swartfort wrote:
Granted I am not a PRO... and I don't have the luxury of "pro glass", but....

I have found that my various lenses have various "sweet spots" for example, my nikor af-s 70-300 4.5-5.6g ED lens at the long end "250-300mm" is way sharper at f/7.1 or f/8 than it is at wider (lower numbered) aperture settings. I find my shorter lenses are better at wider aperture settings. Anecdotal I know, but it is what I have found.


Exactly! This is the case with all lenses. Sharpness varies with FL and working distance. That is why I take all reviews that are not comparative between two or more lenses measured at same conditions and same body, or not being infinity MTF measurements, with a grain of salt.

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 14:56:12   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
swartfort wrote:

I have not really figured out where/how to use the P setting yet.



You think your child is about to take its first step and only have time to get the camera and touch one button.

In good light, things turn to mush using P in dim light. As an experiment set you camera on P and then hold the shutter half way and see what AP and shutter the camera will choose. They may be what you would select

Reply
Apr 15, 2018 15:05:09   #
Bill_de Loc: US
 
In reality A, S, and P all do the same thing.

If in A mode and decide you want a higher shutter speed select a wider aperture until the shutter speed is what you want.

If in S mode and decide you want a wider or smaller aperture, adjust the shutter speed until the camera selects the aperture you want.

If in P mode (called flexible program on Nikon) use one dial, decide on either the aperture or shutter speed you want, then turn the dial until you get what you want. The camera will select the other setting.

In any of these modes, you can use the exposure compensation button and use you thumb to turn a dial.

In manual you don't need to press a button for exposure compensation, just change the shutter speed or aperture.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It may sound complicated, but once you set the ISO, all that is left is aperture and shutter speed. The only thing that might vary from camera to camera if you use auto ISO is how the camera reacts when it reaches the limits you preset for high/low ISO.

--

Reply
Page <<first <prev 4 of 6 next> last>>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.