BB4A

I don't know if this is of interest to other Hoggers, and it's just my perspective (there, that's got both disclaimers out of the way, early!), but I have found it hard to keep absolutely still when using long lenses during this Winter's frigid and windy conditions. Because of the rough (and slippery) ground I have to cover and the distances I actually travel (not unusual for me to walk 5-10 miles), it would be difficult to lug a tripod or monopod around. I have also found that carrying a monopod doesn't give me the speed and freedom to acquire and shoot "targets of opportunity" during these walks. I often have a second or two to acquire the critter in focus and get that shutter closed, before it disappears into the Winter wonderland.

So, I've found a solution that works for me, and may work for others. While I have no problem carrying and acquiring a target easily within a second or two using my standard camera strap with a British two-point sling stance (stolen by me from the way the SAS use their H&K MP5 submachine guns in action) during normal weather (wind gusts under 10-15 mph, and air temperatures above 35 degrees F), I have had to incorporate an extra point of stability for those long lens shots when I'm freezing and shivering! The bonus is that what I've done also works well when I have to creep into a shooting position with an easily-spooked target, or have to hold a long stance to squeeze off several shots at range.

The first picture shows what I came up with; a standard short Picatinny/Weaver/Composite (I use a Leupold Composite) handle mount, that screws into the base of one of my Long Lens Tripod/Monopod feet. To that, I mounted a short grip (I use the Mission First Tactical Short Grip), so I can have a super-stable grip on the lens ring, that can also then be rotated as needed for low-angled and obstructed, creep-in shots. I don't know, but Hoggers may not be aware that lots of shooting and camera gear use the same bolt specifications... which is nice.

One of my friends has inevitably asked me to "prove it works"... I think he's a bit jealous that I have a higher rate of keeper pics in this really frigid weather. So, picture 2 is a seated, no extra support (I wasn't slouching!) shot with my 5D Mkiv and 100-400mm Lens at full zoom (400mm). Settings are: Shutter - 1/20, Aperture - f/5.6, ISO - 12800.

3rd picture is the same focal length and ISO, shot at the lowest shutter speed and aperture setting I could consistently achieve somewhat sharp images; Shutter - 0.4, Aperture - f/16. The crop image in both pics is a little Dalarna Horse, about 15 feet away, and a shade under 3 inches high. And yes, I now know I have some dusting to do.

While this is "personal feel" rather than anything remotely scientific, I find I can't get close to the 3rd picture without using the sling stance AND the short grip. For me, I'm pleased to have found a method that allows me to focus quickly, or creep in and keep still for long periods, when I don't have the option to trek in with tripod, but still need those longer lenses. Now, all I have to do is to figure out a way to stop the camera and lens (and my ass!) from freezing...

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al13

Great idea

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

I use the same thing only your grip is much, much, MUCH fancier than mine!!
I'™ll post a pic when I get home.
It really helps with a way to comfortably hold not only a heavier lens but a bigger diameter lens as well.
Any lens with a tripod foot is a candidate for a grip.
I leave the tripod ring loose and I can swivel from landscape to portrait very quickly by just rotating the camera.
SS

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BB4A

Yours is way cooler, as it's hand-made! I could have made my own except:
1. I totally suck at all things wood-working... unless it also involves plenty of blood and stitches?
2. I had an idea that I could get what I needed from a gun shop; great to prove that there's a few gun accessories that work well for cameras, too.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

Power tool handles / grips could probably be adapted also.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Cool. I’m going to crank up my lathe and turn one out of something exotic like Cocobolo or Morado. Thanks for the idea!

BB4A

👍

I think it’s a 1/4” 20 bolt that you need, but check first with your lens mounting. Cocobolo sounds great; that’s a wonderful wood for custom pistol/revolver grips, so I’m sure it will make a classy short grip. Please post some pics!

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Yes, they are called hanger bolts. They have an SAE on one end and a lag screw type wood thread on the other.
They are used to assemble stair balustrades as well as other things! Good luck
SS

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Only issue I see is that fine tuning focus, switching on/off stabilization or zooming requires a third hand. . .

aflundi Loc: Albuquerque, NM

Yes, BB4A, how do you zoom? (and manual focus tweek?)

Logan1949

Looks like the second picture of the horse auto-focused on the scrolled woodwork behind the horse, instead of the horse itself.

So why don't we have our cameras with long lenses (like a large rifle scope) mounted on short rifle stocks with a cable-release or blue-tooth shutter release button where the trigger would be? Then the butt of the gun stock against the shoulder and the strap on the gun stock around the back of the arm would help stabilize it all while taking the picture.

Or maybe just a strap from the top/bottom of the front handgrip, going under that arm, up around the back & over the shoulder to the opposite top corner of the camera would provide extra tension to stabilize it even more.

Now, I'm seeing that the single strap attached to the two top corners of my camera, allows the body of the camera to push forward, raising the lens, whenever tension is applied to the strap. Maybe the strap should have one side attached to the bottom of the camera, and the other side attached to the top of the camera? That should balance the tension.

Also, why not an extension plate attached to the lens tripod foot, so the short grip can be mounted more forward, nearer the front of the lens? This would lighten the weight on the front grip assuming the rear weight would be taken up by the shoulder strap.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

I use my handle with prime lenses. I don’t own a zoom that’s heavy enough to need a grip.
And you’re focus tweaking handheld...., you’re kidding right???
As for turning off stabilization, I don’t, I shoot Canon!!! LoL
As for using two hands, I wear a strap!
SS

James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)

"Short Grips" --

Make on in Gold for Donald tRUMP.

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Sorry -- I just had to write that .

-0-

BB4A

Thanks for all the questions, and thanks to SS for his perspective and helpful advice. I’m going to try and answer all the questions above in sequence, but please bear in mind that this is what I find useful... not sure if any of this will work for you?

1. How do I manage fine tuning focus, switching on/off stabilization or zooming; do I possess a third hand?
I wish I did; would come in useful for many more activities than just photography. As I have just the standard pair, I fine tune in the British 2-Point Sling stance using my second or third finger of my right hand. I’m blessed with long fingers, and I rarely shoot fully manual except for when I’m stalking / staked out on a shoot. The canon lenses I shoot with have the focus ring in range of those fingers (I wouldn’t buy a lens that didn’t allow that, unless I was pretty sure I would never need manual focus for that application). I practice with both fingers because I find that in cold conditions I lose sensitivity in the finger tips quickly; I use a fold-over fingerless neoprene ice fishing glove on that hand and swap fingers & covers every few minutes to prevent frostbite. 😉
I don’t switch off stabilization at all, as I’m free shooting throughout Winter (explained in my OP). When moving and stalking targets of opportunity, I prezoom before I start each stalk. Same behavior as all Special Forces Operatives around the World, and Big Game Hunters, too. You “set your sights” for maximum range you expect the engagement... and prepare to take a “very full sight” when something happens right in front of you. 😎

2. How do I manual focus tweek?)
As mentioned above, I only use one of those two fingers for manual focus tweaking when I’m in a long stance or staked out. If I’m slung and gripped for quick action... well, that’s why I buy good glass and rely on autofocus. When speed acquiring the target in Winter is key, I personally don’t have time to manually control focus as well. I’m in awe of those guru’s who can pull that trick off; I’m happy to settle for an auto-focused image somewhere near the middle of my photograph.

3. Looks like the second picture of the horse auto-focused on the scrolled woodwork behind the horse, instead of the horse itself.
Well, that’s why I supplied the download version of that pic. At a shutter speed of 0.4, aperture of f/16, and ISO of 12800, I can’t stop the immutable laws of physics and optics from working in my house, when I’m shooting in Av Mode with a 400mm lens some 15 feet from a 3 inch high target in poor light. The Photography Triangle has had its wicked way with this pic; DOF at those settings extends well past the 4 inches between the nose of the horse and the picture frame.

4. So why don't we have our cameras with long lenses (like a large rifle scope) mounted on short rifle stocks with a cable-release or blue-tooth shutter release button where the trigger would be? Then the butt of the gun stock against the shoulder and the strap on the gun stock around the back of the arm would help stabilize it all while taking the picture.
I think you can buy cheap versions of that idea, but I’ve heard they don’t work well. I’d be tempted to have one built out of a rifle stock, with a place to hold my iPhone so I can wirelessly trigger my 5D Mkiv, but I’d want to check with my local Police first... wouldn’t want them called out on SWOT duty, every time I go out on a Winter shoot. 😱

5. Or maybe just a strap from the top/bottom of the front handgrip, going under that arm, up around the back & over the shoulder to the opposite top corner of the camera would provide extra tension to stabilize it even more.
Why not try that out? For me right now, I believe I’ve managed enough stability for my shivery self when the windchill gets below -10 F, but I’ll be delighted if others take this very basic idea further? Key is getting a good sling stance, then the push - pull effect of the sling and grip will be comfortable for you. Only you can decide what’s comfortable and helps with fast shots or long waits with long lenses, in cold or windy weather and away from your tripod.

6. Now, I'm seeing that the single strap attached to the two top corners of my camera, allows the body of the camera to push forward, raising the lens, whenever tension is applied to the strap. Maybe the strap should have one side attached to the bottom of the camera, and the other side attached to the top of the camera? That should balance the tension.
I think that idea may well work for some, and would be easy to adapt. I may try that in the future. My immediate next priority is getting some sort of heat-retaining covers for my camera bodies and longer lenses.

7. Also, why not an extension plate attached to the lens tripod foot, so the short grip can be mounted more forward, nearer the front of the lens? This would lighten the weight on the front grip assuming the rear weight would be taken up by the shoulder strap.
A good question, and why my first pic shows that short rail. I could just as easily have used a longer rail, and locked the grip as far forward as I could comfortably reach with my sling stance. I suggest it all comes down to personal preference and feel, together with the type of active / passive / stalking / stakeout Winter shooting you are Planning?

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

You might like using these - http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-269999-1.html

I have been known to sell them - ready to use ....