shotgun

How do you setup if you are sitting or standind ina observation car of a moving train and you want go take pics of passin scenes outside speed, ap set up po
sition of camera mkving or still and any thing else

dirtpusher Loc: tulsa oklahoma

Fast shutter speed

srfmhg Loc: Marin County, CA

I’d suggest a shutter speed of 1/500 and a rubber lens hood against the window to block glare. Also try and get in the last car and shoot through the window. For some examples, see my posts on Swiss trains.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-499013-1.html

Rongnongno Loc: FL

That thing sounds like tourist train.

You need nothing special.

If you were in a 'normal train' that would be another story.

SteveR Loc: Michigan

Remember, it's like shooting from a car. Things at a distance are actually moving very slowly in reference to either the car or train. The foreground, however, may be another story.

Joe Blow

The difference between photography from a "normal train" and a train with an "observation car" is somewhere between nothing and there ain't any.

It is a mathematical relationship between the angle of the viewer (camera) at the start compared to the end of the shutter. That relationship will exist with any moving viewer; be it a car, train (of any kind), airplane, or skateboard, OR a moving subject including; a race car, a runner, a thrown ball, or the moon. The closer that angle is to zero, the less blur or movement is recorded. A race car traveling at 200 kph 100 M away will create a larger angle than will the moon traveling at 3,700 kph from 385,000 KM.

Rongnongno Loc: FL

A tourist train moves slowly, a passenger train moves rapidly if not REALLY fast.

Now take this into account in your formula. 10/20 miles per hour vs 60mph to 160mph. Speed is a damned factor and a very important one.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

The main key is a high shutter speed, you can also attempt to 'pan' with the subject.
by trying op keep an object in the frame in the same relative position and then squeeze the shutter button. If your shutter speed is high enough the panning will also help. The combination of the two working together should give you an acceptable image. As been mentioned, the further away from the train the better. Close subjects from a fast moving train are really tough.

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

Distant objects appear to move slower than closer objects so panning is an option. On a canon AV will track and hold focus on a moving subject as it comes towards you. (check your manual to see how to set this on your camera) However, through glass is going to be an issue; as is vibration. Faster the shutter and resting on a soft cushion may help reduce vibration. Putting your camera onto the vibrating glass will require a good rubber seal,,,, I think this only works on fixed still glass to reduce reflection - not a moving vehicle......someone will put me right!

have fun and enjoy your trip

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

Distant objects appear to move slower than closer objects so panning is an option. On a canon AV will track and hold focus on a moving subject as it comes towards you. (check your manual to see how to set this on your camera) However, through glass is going to be an issue; as is vibration. Faster the shutter and resting on a soft cushion may help reduce vibration. Putting your camera onto the vibrating glass will require a good rubber seal,,,, I think this only works on fixed still glass to reduce reflection - not a moving vehicle......someone will put me right!

have fun and enjoy your trip

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

Define train. Are you talking about a high speed train on manufactured constantly monitored track/bed systems or a moderate speed train (20-100mph) on hand/machine laid bedding. The former flies along with little or no rocking, while the latter, with undulating tracks not in harmony causes the rocking that lulls you to sleep. Each has its own set of challenges.

Joe Blow

Again, that is irrelevant. It is the angle that matters. The greater the angle / vertex the greater the distortion. A race car moves very quickly, creating a large vertex. That requires an extremely fast shutter speed or panning. A shot of the moon can be a long exposure because the relative angle is so very small.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

Yes, speed a factor especially on a bullet train or a mag lev train. I have never been on a mag-lev train but I suspect ride would be smooth.

LarryFitz Loc: Beacon NY

The observation train I took in Alaska had ruined windows that refused lights. The MTA to NYC has clear glass that is dirty most of the time. I could adjust for the tinted Windows, but not the dirty Windows.

bmp Loc: Atlanta

I'm not an expert, but I've probably dedicated 200-300 hours taking photos from moving trains. Some things that have helped me...

1. Use a rubber lens hood that you can actually touch the window. Watch for red/green/blue UV effects on the train's windows. Also examine the window itself for scratches/smears. Find a clear area of the window.
2. Watch for overhead and opposite window reflections. You can often counter them with strategic use of the hood.
3. Use a monopod with a ball head. Lean the monopod so the camera is near the window.
4. As others recommend, use a fast shutter speed, or the Sport Scene setting on your camera. Don't be afraid though, of a wide landscape shot, of blurring the foreground.
5. Resist the tendency of shooting forward or backward - keep an eye on what's coming, frame up and wait for it. Composition is king.
6. No cows.
7. Don't stop taking pictures of something you feel you've taken enough. It'll surprise you.
8. Be aware of power lines - try to avoid them if you can.
9. Always shoot with the sun behind you, unless it's setting or rising.
10. When you miss a great shot, anticipate something like it in the next minute.

Hope some of this helps. Feel free to take a peek at some of my shots - http://www.bill.photography/views-from-trains.html