Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

As I started shooting weddings about 3 years ago I'm relatively new though I was shooting wedding videos for 18 years so I know correct exposures and how to get the most out of my camera.

I originally started shooting in manual which was good for the education of camera use and to be familiar with how a camera responds under certain settings. I find most wedding articles / blogs don't give to much detail, just generalizations. So I thought it would be good to share the details with one another.

I always shoot in RAW all through a wedding, but have given some thought to shoot jpeg as my exposures are getting better thus less fixing required.

I always went with a bit more DOF in manual. It was safe and I liked keeping the background in focus, the destination was important, I mean couple spend $10K - $25K for the location so it's got to be important. What I gave up many times was a lower ISO, thus less noise in the pictures. So I've started shooting aperture priority during the ceremony to shoot shallower, thus keeping my ISO lower. I'm shooting in the f/4.5 - f/5.6 range, programming my 5D III to maintain 1/250 on the shutter and a ceiling of 1600 on the ISO. This would be so long as I have good ambient light. In a dark mission I'd lower my shutter speed and increase the max ISO to 3200 and might use my prime lenses so I could shoot shallower.

During the posed shoots as my shutter can be much lower I have the ability to keep some detail in the background if I so choose using f/8 - f/13, probably around 1/40 at 35mm, and the ISO in the 32 - 640 range.

At night during the reception I'll go manual with my shutter in the 1/60 - 1/160 range, F/5.6 - f/6.3, ISO in the 1250 - 2500 range. I'm not feeling good about dragging the shutter lower than 1/60 unless the ambient light is under 3 stops below neutral. Ideally I like to keep the ambient light level 1 to 1.5 stops under neutral and then illuminate the subject(s) with flash, both on-camera and off-camera.

Lets hear how some of you shoot ... I'm all ears and open to learning more :)

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

RAW...always
Usually wide open for portraits, f4-8 for couples...F8-11 otherwise. If low light will shoot family groups as low as F4 if all are in the focal plane. Family shots on tripod with trigger so I can focus on managng the groups and keep their attention (away from the 12 people behind me with their smartphones pulling eyeballs away from my camera.). Hand held for all other shots on the day (other than macros of rings, shoes and other jewelry and flowers which I use tripod).

Always have speedlights on stands for bride getting ready (corners of room with ceiling bounce) and reception. (Ceremony only of really bad lighting, bride approves it and venue allows). I will sometimes turn off trigger to get some low light shots

90% shots on 70-200 and 24-70. Some Bride ready shots and bride portraits with 50mm 1.4 wide open.(want an 85mm 1.4 but as long as I dont get too close, the shots are ok on the 50)

Shutter never below 250 at 200mm
Never below 100 at 24-70mm ... even with IS.
Never above 2400 iso on FF (never use my 70D for wedding photos....just sports ).
Manual settings always (no AWB so even if wrong, bulk fix in post).

Spot focus, spot metering, high speed shutter, BBF with dual buttons 1 for AIServo, 1 for One Shot. (Action vs posed).

Hmmm. Think thats about it.

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

You own a 16-35, you don't use much?

During the reception, dancing in particular, settings?

BTW, we both use our 24-70 and 70-200 primarily. I seldom use my 50 or 85 and I wonder why as they are such good lenses, maybe I'm getting lazy. Use a 100 macro on jewelry plus an off-camera flash on the rings.

I use a 5D III amd a 6D ... as you I own a 70D but only use for video.

dnathan

As a 45 year veteran of event photography I offer this...shooting with 2 1/4 film most of my career I shot portraits with a 150, groups and slow dancing with and portraits with a 50 (28mm ") and non group portraits with an 85mm. When I switched to digital (Nikon D200) I used their 18-200 zoom. Never had a problem up to 16x20 and never concerned about changing or having the wrong lens selected. This way I could concentrate on the action and not losing a shot because I had the wrong lens on the camera. I realized early on that it was more important to get the picture than that picture being technically perfect. My mantra that saved me well: "these are your pictures, not mine". I was blessed to photograph so many events, internationly, (about 1000) I know this approach served me well. Hope this insight is helpful.

jaysnave Loc: Central Ohio

Nice thread Jerry. I have much in common with the three of you so far. I have tried primes, but probably 90% of what I do is with the 70/200 and 24/70. Struggling with quickly changing lenses when I need to, however, next time out I am going to try carrying two bodies with those lenses. I try to shoot "almost" wide open for individuals. I guess I am a little afraid of getting the wrong part of the face out of focus. I go 4.5 to 5.6 for 2 to 3 people depending if they are on the same plane and how far away I am. ISO ... I used to cap it at 1600, but I recently purchased a new ISO beast and will be experimenting with manual plus auto ISO capped at 6400. We will see. I typically add some on or off camera lighting whenever I can even outside. My primary thing is raccoon eyes. I like to see bright eyes with catch lights. Sometimes I wonder if I get too carried away with that obsession.

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

...I forgot to mention that I carry 2 bodies with me on a Double Black Rapid Strap (5Dmkiv and 6D). Usually the 24-70 has a flash with a Fong also.

For family pics, fill flash for racoon eyes as you mentioned.

Usually look for shade so I don't have to worry about squinters and racoons.....color can be flat though in the shade so its a bit of a balancing act.

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

16-35 is a little tricky due to distortion. Even my 24 with the frame full can show some distortion near the edges. Which is fine to fix for architecture but hard to fix peoples heads at the edges.

I use it for emergency tight shots (better a little distortion than no pic at all). Also use it for "odd" shots ...ie B&G fists in the camera up close and them kissing blurred in the background with backlit sun breaking between them...shooting at 45deg angle from the ground....if you can visualize that.
I use the 50mm 1.4 when i have time during the bride getting ready. Once I get to the ceremony its game on and keep the 2 bodies with the 24-70 and 70-200 on me until the ceremony is over. The 50mm and 16-35 may come out later on..

jaysnave Loc: Central Ohio

I use a BR strap and am quite comfortable with it. I have the double strap in my cart just thinking on it. My concern is all that heavy equipment swinging around. I am not concerned about the weight on me all day, just banging it into things.

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

If you are leaning over ...it can be a problem. Getting the gear on and off can be a little annoying also....just havent found anything else that is as quick to adjust from 1 camera to the other....

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

I also want to carry two bodies but just don’t like the idea of them bouncing around

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

Try it.you will always have your hands on them when moving and when shooting you are stationary so its not an issue EXCEPT when you need to go to ground for the shot or leaning in which case they swing. Found during the ceremony, I always have both on me. If one fails, the other is right there.
Before and after the ceremony...I only use 1 at a time....often dont use the straps at all.

crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada

Get the shot..in focus....always first priority....

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

I sometimes use the dual sling strap from OpTech. It isn't a problem when walking around, because you automatically tend to hold on to each one with your hands at your sides. I never even thought about it, it's just automatic.

The one issue I do have is getting up and down off the floor. Since my back surgery, I can't do it quite as gracefully, and I need my hands to help the process. That does tend to make the bodies bounce around a bit. At this point, I rarely use the dual set up, but like using the strap with one camera on it, because the across the back support is just a LOT more comfortable than any neck strap, or even one shoulder sling straps. After a full day of shooting, I'm still fairly comfortable, because it feels like everything is just more balanced (yes, it does tend to pull to one side, but not as bad as just an individual sling (in MY opinion.... your results may vary)

bk

jaysnave Loc: Central Ohio

I have an identical situation Bob. My back surgery has left me much less graceful. I get down for low angles easily, but I have perfected this roll and plant foot technique to get back up which may not play well with two cameras swinging around. In situations like this where I slid out of my assigned pew, dropped to the ground for the flower girl and rolled back up I could possibly unhook the camera I am not using ...

(Download)

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

I as well have a bum knew that I'm going to need surgery on someday .... Were a bunch of old duffers