MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

I need some help, please. This image is similiar to other images taken last night at a local stage play. I used a Canon 5D Mark III with a 4-105 F4 L Lens. I had the camera in "P" mode, ISO of 5000. The ISO was high in order that the shutter speed would not allow camera shake. I am thinking that the high ISO is the problem. Also I was only about 8 feet way from the "stage", which was on the same level as I was, it was a gym. When I magnify the image, the faces appear blurry or not at all sharp. Can anyone offer any help, thanks in advance.

(Download)

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Focusing. The camera locked on the dog house.

This is sharper than the face, by far.

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

Should I have used "spot" focusing?

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Usually folks in a play do not move much so pre focusing works better. Often there are marks on the ground where folks should stand. (In this case I spotted a few green marks but these seems to be for the accessories).

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

Thank you

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Yes, I personally use spot or trap focusing, I would also shoot in Manual mode, if I were to use other than manual, it would be Aperture priority or shutter Priority in that order. I've never used P mode. Although I shoot a Nikon D3s for stage work or other low light work, that camera should handle ISO 5000 easily I would think.

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

[quote=OnDSnap]Yes, I personally use spot or trap focusing, I would also shoot in Manual mode, if I were to use other than manual, it would be Aperture priority or shutter Priority in that order. I've never used P mode. Although I shoot a Nikon D3s for stage work or other low light work, that camera should handle ISO 5000 easily I would think.[/qu

Thank you.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

Can you go back and see where your camera actually focused? There should be some red boxes visible when the image is viewed in the camera or in the Canon software. It looks to me like the orange dog collar is in better focus than the people. Also, do you know what your F stop was? Program mode isn't known for giving good DOF.

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

I will, thanks. I guess its definitely a focus issue, next time I won't use "P"!

Erdos2 Loc: Vancouver, WA

Besides the comments about where the focus was at and the P vs A vs S modes, I don't see much noise, so I wonder if you could bump up the ISO a little bit more. Anything that allows a higher f-stop and still keeps the shutter speed faster than 1/50th sec will increase the depth of field.

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

Didn't think about that, thank you!

mtbear

ƒ4 is very slow for stage work which I have done since the 70s. I always use an ƒ1.4 or ƒ2.8.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Determine your exposure, doesn't mater at this point what's what at this juncture, its just a starting point to see what your dealing with. Keeping in mind changing one of the three corners of the exposure triangle will force a change in either one or two. Next I would decide on shutter speed... do I want to freeze the action, or do I want a tad of deliberate motion blur, (Not camera shake. Next decide what depth of field you need/want, more open (lower #) for subjects to pop from backgrounds, stopped down or larger #'s for greater DOF, once you have established those two parameters, raise or lower your ISO to get your exposure back on track. As mentioned, ISO...crank it up, get the shot and deal with noise later (if needed) in PP.
BTW, don't forget about White Balance, especially if your shooting JPEGs, if you can and know how use custom, I would use it. Maybe an Expo Disk or a grey card. I would do it even shooting raw for use as reference later in PP. Theater or stage lighting can/is tricky due to the constantly changing of light. Not just intensity but color. The lighting can be your best friend or worst enemy.

MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay

Great points, thank you.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

The focus issue likely has little or nothing to do with the use of full auto mode. Probably it has more to do with accidental camera movement. Happens to me some. That's why I suggested you check your actual focal point.