nikonwaddy

I have had my new AF-S 24-70 2.8E ED lens living on my Nikon D800 for a while and it provided amazing and very sharp results. Recently I decided to forgo the coming Nikon D850 and purchased a Nikon D810 because of price and other issues. Much to my surprise the 24-70 2.8E on my D810 is a much softer lens. Acuity of this lens on the D810 is noticeably less than on my D800. I have run test back and forth between bodies and the results are the same. Lens sharper on the D800. My question..is this a not so unusual situation? Can it be corrected? I am thinking of trudging down to my superb local camera shop here in Austin to have them adjust the lens focus to the D810 if this is possible. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas from my fellow "Hoggers."

Thanking all commenters in advance.

tradio Loc: Oxford, Ohio

You may have to calibrate your lens. There is methods that you can do at your own kitchen table, check youtube. I had to adjust my 24-70 on my D800 but not on my D810.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP8g8iZ0JZM

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

Yes, It's possible, and you can do it yourself for free.

Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier

If you purchased the camera from your local store, they will most likely calibrate the lens to your camera for no charge. It is pretty quick to do and if you feel comfortable doing it, you can do it yourself.

SS319

If your lens is sharp on camera A and not sharp on Camera B, what has changed? Did the lens change? NOoo! Then, why calibrate the lens?

Compare camera A with Camera B with a Different High Quality lens: Are the images equal between the cameras or is Camera B again softer?

Perhaps you should seek to find out why camera B is different rather than just arbitrarily calibrating the lens; what happens if the lens is calibrated and is then soft on both cameras? Now, you are worse off!

You did do your homework, so you know that the D800 has a lo pass filter while the D810 does not. The D810 also has a newer processor (probably to account for the lack of Low Pass Filter); it is far more likely that the differences you see are between the cameras and NOT in a single lens!.

The point is, you know the lens works fine in one setting but not in another, and you know there are differences in light accumulation and processing in one camera compared to the other. There is no justifiable reason to think the lens somehow goes out of calibration by attaching to a different camera - what if you want to use it again on your D800? Do you need to get it calibrated every time you change?

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

You don't understand AF fine tuning.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Uhmm, when you fine tune focus, the camera is tuned to the lens. Not the lens to the camera.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

It's very possible (even likely) that the microfocus calibration will be different between bodies due to mechanical and assembly tolerances, positions of the phase detect sensors, etc. You can have the shop or Nikon do this, or calibrate it yourself using the microfocus adjustment (MFA) on the 810. If you do it yourself, you can use one of the several available MFA aids (I use Reikan's FoCal), and there is a no-cost method as well which essentially matches the autofocus phase detect to the live view contrast detection (which I haven't tried). MFA calibration is a subject of constant discussion on the Hog, with some knowledgable members asserting that it's not necessary (or better done by the factory) and others (myself included) that can see a noticeable difference in sharpness and calibrate regularly to get the absolute best out of expensive lenses and bodies. Do a search on calibration or microfocus adjustment or MFA, etc. to reread the discussions and see examples of the various methods and results.

Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier

You show that you have no idea how calibration works. The camera body is calibrated to the lens and you can calibrate several lenses to a body. Nothing is changed on the lens. Micro adjustments are needed at times to get the lens as sharp as possible on a camera body.

SS319

If I want to eat an apple, so I say I am going to have an orange?

Every comment says calibrate the lens - the lens! In fact, each of you apparently meant calibrate the camera body to the lens or simply, calibrate the body!

And then you accuse ME of not understanding lens calibration; you guys need to get your English on!

A lens calibration ALWAYS makes adjustments to the lens - a Camera body calibration will make changes to the BODY.

What I said - and I stand behind it - the problem is not in the lens and if you "Calibrate" the lens to the D810, then it will not then work with the D800.
Corollary: If you calibrate the body to the lens, then the lens should work on both bodies!

Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier

I specifically stated "calibrate the lens to the body" - sorry not to have said calibrate the body to the lens. You are correct in my wording, but you obviously had no understanding of calibrating the body to the lens. So, your wrong does not make you right.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

Before taking drastic steps, I'd suggest taking a look at the Picture Control settings under your Shooting menu, My D810 was delivered set up for "Neutral," which includes settings for reduced sharpness. Try "Vivid," which has higher sharpness and saturation. I also created a couple of custom setups to further increase sharpness. If this fixes your problem, it will save you a trip.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Don't let the camera store do anything, unless it is Nikon Authorized Repair.

AF Tuning in the camera is not intended as a permanent solution. Look at your manual - it specifically warns that other aspects of focus will be unintentionally affected.

Nikon techs have software and tools and access to other parameters that you or the local camera store does not, and they can do a substantially better job at correcting focus errors, for all focal lengths and distances - something you can't do.

What you can do is use a test target to see what the extent of the problem is.

My experience with this is the following.

I purchased a Nikon refurbed D800 as a back up. I took it to an event, and nearly all of the images taken with it were soft - regardless of which lens I had on the body - Nikon, Sigma, Tamron. These lenses were fine on the other D800, and on all the other bodies I had used with them. The problem was clearly with the camera.

They suggested I leave the camera with a lens that showed the problem best - a 600mm F4. I reluctantly agreed, but told them I was not authorizing them to make any adjustments on the lens, as it was fine with at least 5 other bodies.

They called and recommended a reconditioning on the lens. I refused. They said the body was tested and it was fine. When I picked it up, took some shots in the parking lot it was clear that it still had a focus issue. They took it back ran some tests and made some software and possibly focus sensor and mirror adjustments on their optical bench, and voila! It was fine - with all of my lenses.

The key point here is if the lens is fine with the other body, it and the body are clearly within spec, and your D810 is not. Bringing the D810 up to spec is what you want.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You don't understand AF fine tuning (why it exists ...)

EricLeeMac Loc: Virginia, USA

Is it possible that if you are shooting jpegs that your D800 is currently set to a greater sharpness setting?