Dannewi

How should I shoot football games facing the sun on a very hot humid day? The first picture is facing the sun. The second is shooting away from the sun. The haze from the humidity was terrible this day.

What can I do to improve pictures in this situation? Is there a filter I should be using? Or will it be a matter of removing the haze using software?

Photo #1
Nikon D80
Shutter 1/2
F-Stop f/5.6
ISO 800
Focal Length 210.0 mm

Photo #2
Nikon D80
Shutter 1/1600
F-Stop F/6.3
ISO 800
Focal Length 105.0 mm

Photo # 1


Photo #2

gdwsr Loc: Northern California

Aperture came out with an update version that has a pretty good auto enhance improvements. So I thought I would give it a go. It did better than I thought. You didn't mention what software you have. But here are the adjustments I used.

In my experience, haze is hard to remove in post processing. A UV filter will help some. I would try a circular polarizer. It works best when light is being reflected from a source at a 90 degree angle to your lens. Haze is a little funny so you might just fool around and see what helps.

Good luck

Aperture 3 adjusted

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Are you using a lens hood?

Short of that...there is not much you can do but find another vantage point to shoot from.

My question is: Why are you using 1/1600 and 1/2000 as a shutter speed with ISO 800 during the day?

Dannewi

No, I did not try a lense hood. Although I did try the polarizing filter.

Why was I using 1/1600 ro 1/2000? Lack of experience :) I was most likely shooting in Auto or Sports mode. I know.. I heard your sigh from here... my goal is to get away from both.

I currently have Photoshop Elements 9 and ViewNX2.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Take off the filter, put on the hood :) Shoot with the sun behind the plane of the camera if possible unless the backlit look is what you are going for.




You made me smile....very good. :)

While you are wating for that next game, practice shooting in manual mode.

It's easier than you think.

Basic daylight (sunny) settings for football game:

ISO 100
f/16
1/125 shutter speed

Those are just the starting point.

If you need a faster shutter speed to freeze the action; change the shutter speed to double (one click) to 1/250

Then change the f/stop to (one click) more open f/11

That will get you the same exposure; it's letting in the same amount of light.

If that makes sense practice that until you know it cold, in your sleep. You'll never look back :)

les_stockton Loc: Eastern Oklahoma

I shoot a lot of football. What I do is to move to the opposite side of the field so that I don't have this problem. In my opinion, there's no easy answer to your question other than that. I've never been pleased with results with backlighting at games. I always prefer having the light behind me, not the subjects.

les_stockton Loc: Eastern Oklahoma

I also agree with the use of a lens hood. But that alone will not solve the real problem. Your subject is backlit, and without fill light (artificial; and they wont allow that), it just isn't going to be good. That's why I choose to move to the opposite side of the field so that I don't have that problem.

docrob Loc: Durango, Colorado

all the above AND instead of looking for group shots try looking for more tightly composed shots of one or two players in action - the idea being to work around hazy back lit scenes so that the light and the situation works for you - not agin you. And the hood is crucial here as rap said.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

This is important I think...getting close to the "interaction" and emotion.

For me, (maybe not everyone) it's more compelling to see close ups...expressions....sweat...etc.

overthemoon Loc: Wisconsin

overthemoon Loc: Wisconsin

With action shots you need at least 500 shutter and your aperture can be between 7 and 11 you won't need that much dof.then put your iso on auto

overthemoon Loc: Wisconsin

With action shots you need at least 500 shutter and your aperture can be between 7 and 11 you won't need that much dof.then put your iso on auto

renomike Loc: Reno, Nevada

I think you answered your own question... Switch to the other side of the field... ;0)

Mike

Toby

Mike is correct, move to a new position.
As for correcting after the fact, I shoot a lot of football at night and in the early Fall it frequently gets hazy in the early evening. With multiple field lights there is no way I can relocate to get an acceptable angle is I have to PP correct. I have found that the "auto color" in PS will usually reduce the haze effect. That's the quick correction. I am sure LR will do a better job but it takes more time.

As for camera settings I disagree with most of the posts. It is very unlikely that a slower shutter speed will create the type of action blur you would want. A 1/250 will give you blurring on the hands and feet but won't show much "running" speed. The result is a photo that just looks amateurish. I have been most successful shooting with aperture priority, around 2.8 if possible. This gives you some bokeh and focuses the viewer’s eye on the subject. After selecting an aperture, select an ISO (100 if daylight much higher if night) and let the shutter speed float. Take a few practice shots and be sure the ISO is set high enough so that the minimum shutter speed is 1/500 or higher. To check for minimum shutter speed take a shot in the darkest area with the lens fully extended (assuming it is not a constant aperture lens). By extending the lens the aperture necks down and darkens the result. If the speed is too slow increase the ISO.

skyguy Loc: Overland Park, Kansas

You might also try changing to spot metering so you can meter on the subject rather than the whole scene.

Bruce