Focus Help
May 31, 2012 00:45:49 #
I'm not really sure anyone can help-I think it is probably just a matter of me practicing, but I am having trouble focusing with my new 50mm 1.8 prime lens. The thing that really bothers me is not that I occasionally lose focus, but that I don't SEE it in the lens or on the review screen! One of these days it is going to be a shot I really needed to reshoot (like a wedding shot or something---God forbid!)
Here is a sample of what I am talking about....I was supposed to be focused on the child's face obviously (it may or may not be over-exposed ---apparently I like over-exposed images and never knew it before now! LOL!) instead I ended up focused on the water stream in front of her...in other shots that I stupidly deleted I focused on the trim on the edge of her bathing suit. In the "action" shot I focused somewhere on the child's feet maybe instead of the child's face.
Like I said, my real beef is that I am not seeing in when I review the image. (I'm definitely scheduling an eye exam >)
Some shots are perfectly focused---so I know it isn't the lens...it is definitely the user behind the lens!
Any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.
By the way--I am shooting with a Canon Rebel T3i (if that matters).
Here is a sample of what I am talking about....I was supposed to be focused on the child's face obviously (it may or may not be over-exposed ---apparently I like over-exposed images and never knew it before now! LOL!) instead I ended up focused on the water stream in front of her...in other shots that I stupidly deleted I focused on the trim on the edge of her bathing suit. In the "action" shot I focused somewhere on the child's feet maybe instead of the child's face.
Like I said, my real beef is that I am not seeing in when I review the image. (I'm definitely scheduling an eye exam >)
Some shots are perfectly focused---so I know it isn't the lens...it is definitely the user behind the lens!
Any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.
By the way--I am shooting with a Canon Rebel T3i (if that matters).
May 31, 2012 00:54:20 #
May 31, 2012 01:07:10 #
Hi Melllyn! Take a look at a program called "Focus Magic", it's pretty cool. it will allow you to adjust the focus on any photo, and will also allow you to make corrections in some minor movement, such as subject shake or camera shake.. Good pictures by the way, I couldn't do any better than that, so I can't give any advice here... :o(
May 31, 2012 01:13:09 #
Viper64 wrote:
Hi Melllyn! Take a look at a program called "Focus Magic", it's pretty cool. it will allow you to adjust the focus on any photo, and will also allow you to make corrections in some minor movement, such as subject shake or camera shake.. Good pictures by the way, I couldn't do any better than that, so I can't give any advice here... :o(
Oh I'm going to run and check out that program now! Thanks!
May 31, 2012 01:40:11 #
The issue may lie with what the camera is focusing on. Open your manual starting at page 50. Page 53 explains how to Spot Focus. Page 59 explains how to take Portraits. Page 84 may also be important. Page 85 may be the most informative as it explains how to control the cameras focus modes rather than let the camera decide for you.
May 31, 2012 01:52:05 #
Bless your soul! Now if I could find the manual! The camera is a school camera (I sponsor the yearbook) and Lord only knows where that bugger has gotten to! However, I will go hunt down an online version and check it out.
The thing that makes me wonder though is that I didn't have this problem as much with the other lenses (70-200 mm and the smaller one -can't remember the numbers just now), so why the problem with the new lens?
The thing that makes me wonder though is that I didn't have this problem as much with the other lenses (70-200 mm and the smaller one -can't remember the numbers just now), so why the problem with the new lens?
May 31, 2012 01:55:20 #
Canon USA T3i Manual
http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3i_18_55mm_is_ii_kit#BrochuresAndManuals
Maybe the 50 is more sensitive? Changing the way you focus should help with both lenses. Either way, keep posting!
http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3i_18_55mm_is_ii_kit#BrochuresAndManuals
Maybe the 50 is more sensitive? Changing the way you focus should help with both lenses. Either way, keep posting!
May 31, 2012 01:58:56 #
May 31, 2012 04:13:04 #
So you are focusing on the wrong thing but you are using manual focus?
If that's what you are saying then are you really saying that when you look through the viewfinder you can't tell when the part of the image you want to be in focus is sharp?
If that's what you are saying then are you really saying that when you look through the viewfinder you can't tell when the part of the image you want to be in focus is sharp?
May 31, 2012 13:04:12 #
rpavich wrote:
So you are focusing on the wrong thing but you are using manual focus?
If that's what you are saying then are you really saying that when you look through the viewfinder you can't tell when the part of the image you want to be in focus is sharp?
If that's what you are saying then are you really saying that when you look through the viewfinder you can't tell when the part of the image you want to be in focus is sharp?
Yes, I am focusing on the wrong thing, but I can't tell that I am until I get the images into my laptop to edit. I thought maybe there was a trick to manual focus that I am missing...the more I look at it, the more I think I really need my eyes checked! LOL!
May 31, 2012 13:49:23 #
Here is one I did today...and I was almost sure I had it right, and then got it in the computer and saw the focus was on the very edge of the trunk in the very front of the frame!
May 31, 2012 14:31:09 #
melllyn wrote:
Here is one I did today...and I was almost sure I had it right, and then got it in the computer and saw the focus was on the very edge of the trunk in the very front of the frame!
Ok..there is a problem with our terms...we aren't understanding each other.
When I say manual focus I mean that you turn the switch on the lens from AF to Man and the camera doesn't focus for you when you hit the shutter button; you turn the wheel on the lens until you see the subject get's clear and in focus...right?
That's what you mean by manual focus?
Jun 1, 2012 01:58:30 #
Is f1.8 going to give you enough depth of field at that distance? I would think that closing the aperture down would make a big difference. Use spot metering so you know where the focus is and see if that helps, and try various settings from there.
Jun 1, 2012 06:39:02 #
Why would you prefer to focus manually when the camera has autofocus which will focus much better than you can see. Set the focus point on the subjects eyes and let the camera do the work for you. Another thought is the diopter on the camera may not be set for your eyes. Put the camera on a tripod and let the camera focus on something stationary. then turn the little diopter wheel on the viewfinder until the subject is tack sharp to your eye. Hope this helps.
Jun 1, 2012 06:45:51 #
There is quite a bit of bad (or at least unclear) terminology being used here in this thread.
Spot metering has nothing to do with focus. That will only control exposure, and while the OP mentions over exposure, it's not the point of this thread.
Since you are manually focusing the lens, you aren't "focusing on the wrong thing." This can happen in auto focus mode when the camera selects a different focus point than where you intended the focus to be. But in manual mode, this doesn't /can't occur.
Since these photos are outside and in bright sun, your shutter speed is likely plenty fast to cause any blur... So that's out.
I think what's likely happening here is that you simply aren't focusing accurately on your intended subject. And if you are using a wide aperture on that lens, you don't have any margin of error. (even an inch at wide open will shift the point of perfect focus forward or backward in the frame.)
Your other lenses don't have maximum apertures as wide, and therefore you have a wider margin of error on those shots.
I you really want to test to see if your new lens has a focus problem (and eliminate faulty equipment from this equation) do a focus test. Place the camera on a tripod with plenty of light at a 45deg downward angle and shoot a ruler (or plenty of test targets for download, do a Google search). Focus on the target number and shoot at different apertures. You can then closely examine the results on your computer to see the depth of field of your lens and the point of perfect focus.
Hope you find this helpful.
Spot metering has nothing to do with focus. That will only control exposure, and while the OP mentions over exposure, it's not the point of this thread.
Since you are manually focusing the lens, you aren't "focusing on the wrong thing." This can happen in auto focus mode when the camera selects a different focus point than where you intended the focus to be. But in manual mode, this doesn't /can't occur.
Since these photos are outside and in bright sun, your shutter speed is likely plenty fast to cause any blur... So that's out.
I think what's likely happening here is that you simply aren't focusing accurately on your intended subject. And if you are using a wide aperture on that lens, you don't have any margin of error. (even an inch at wide open will shift the point of perfect focus forward or backward in the frame.)
Your other lenses don't have maximum apertures as wide, and therefore you have a wider margin of error on those shots.
I you really want to test to see if your new lens has a focus problem (and eliminate faulty equipment from this equation) do a focus test. Place the camera on a tripod with plenty of light at a 45deg downward angle and shoot a ruler (or plenty of test targets for download, do a Google search). Focus on the target number and shoot at different apertures. You can then closely examine the results on your computer to see the depth of field of your lens and the point of perfect focus.
Hope you find this helpful.
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