How do you achieve this shot? What settings, Environment, Flashlight...
My guess is that it is a composite of 2 images.
did you misspell 'elusive'???
His site has a link 'recommended software' that takes you to a product called 'Plotagraph Pro' which creates animations within still photos. Gimicky, but interesting, worth a look. Expensive - $300. Sony has a downloadable app that does a similar but limited effect in camera for a couple of bucks.
I did not look at his site but have seen many images similar to this, and most are not fake or "Photoshopped". It's called astro landscape. Basically what you do is take a series of images with the highest ISO you feel your camera is capable of without introducing too much noise, for as long as you can without introducing star trails, unless that is what you want, this is determined by your focal length. Then in the last few images get yourself in the image, trying to hold perfectly still. If there are foreground items like an old truck or even a tree try lightpainting techniques with your torch. Mostly trial and error. Usually techniques used to eliminate all camera noise are utilized, such as Dark, Bias and Flat frames. These remove the majority of the noise and eliminate the gradients inherent in most astro photos.
A few tips for better shots:
1) A truly dark sky site.
2) Calibration frames 20 of each is minimal.
3) use of programs like stellarium or skysafari to know which direction and time to shoot, for the core of the Milkyway.
4) Scouting and setting up before dark
5) Mostly have fun and don't expect anything great on your first few endeavours.
how many shot do i need to bracket 70?
It really all depends typically with an ultra wide lens like a 10-20mm on a FF camera I would shoot for 30-45sec exposures, stopped down two stops from fully wide open, @1600/3200ISO since the stars are moving the whole time you will only be able to stack 10-20 images before its too hard to register the sky to the foreground.
Some use free programs like DeepSkyStacker to calibrate and stack their images, then take the 32bit image to Photoshop/Gimp not sure how well it does to static objects like trees, but worth a shot.
Personally I use PixInsight to do all the precessing from calibration to color correction. But it's kind of expensive and designed solely for astro images.
What's the point of turning up he ISO for a long expo it seems to make the image to bright like a daytime shot @1600 ISO