manofhg Loc: Knoxville, TN

Thanks. The Friz might have had two lights for keeping it balanced.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Alan, the hanging camera bag, which I have used in the past and decided didn't work for me because of swaying and lack of consistent results, was put away in lieu of Moose Peterson's half-a**ed recommendation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8HVPrPzpR4

Besides, since the vibration that causes problems in long exposures, and even in the range of 1/20 to 1/160, is mostly caused by the shutter movement (an issue not seen on cameras with electronic shutter or electronic first curtain, btw), hanging a camera bag from the hook on the tripod does precious little to dampen those vibrations.

A sandbag placed on the camera will help tremendously, BTW.

What is half-a**ed is trying to use an inadequate tripod and trying to make up for it with sandbags and hanging camera bags.

While I do not claim to have invented this, I did use the technique back in the film days when I used Leitz TiltAll and various Bogen tripods. The sandbag I used was a rubber, sand-filled and sealed pouch, which I also used to weigh down light stands when using them outdoors.

On the exposures under discussion, you don't need to hold onto your lens for the entire exposure - you just have to keep your arm there momentarily until the shutter vibration dies down.

We've all done crazy things to get the shot - and in my opinion, if it works, that's all that matters, even if it does seem ridiculously half-a**ed.

Regis Loc: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho

You need a better contrast setting of f/8 or f/10. Using a remote shutter switch will damper any movement that
you will get when you use your finger to press down on the shutter button.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Even though the circumstance is different the source of vibration is the same - it's the camera's shutter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8HVPrPzpR4

Here are a couple of links to shutter shock vibration in other cameras:

http://cameraergonomics.blogspot.com/2013/08/how-to-test-for-shutter-shock.html

http://www.josephholmes.com/news-sonya7rshuttershake-part3.html

https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr153_0=nikon_d810&attr153_1=nikon_d750&attr153_2=nikon_d810&attr153_3=nikon_d750&attr153_4=nikon_d810&attr153_5=nikon_d750&attr153_6=nikon_d810&attr153_7=nikon_d750&attr151_0=1&attr151_1=1&attr151_2=1&attr151_3=1&attr151_4=1&attr151_5=1&attr151_6=1&attr151_7=1&attr157_0=2&attr157_1=2&attr157_2=2&attr157_3=2&attr157_4=2&attr157_5=2&attr157_6=2&attr157_7=2&attr155_0=off&attr155_1=off&attr155_2=off&attr155_3=off&attr155_4=off&attr155_5=off&attr155_6=off&attr155_7=off&attr156_0=1%2F200&attr156_1=1%2F200&attr156_2=1%2F160&attr156_3=1%2F160&attr156_4=1%2F125&attr156_5=1%2F125&attr156_6=1%2F100&attr156_7=1%2F100&normalization=compare&widget=218&x=-0.000158469861999938&y=0.32033269648513774

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Thanks for the kind words and appreciation!

You've got his number it seems. I really can't be bothered with such nonsense - he is a bitter person, and his post is very revealing about his own character faults and feelings of inadequacy. Only a guy with this kind of baggage would put another person on his ignore list and continue to snipe at him. It kinda defeats the purpose, doesn't it?

bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada

I would also suggest a REALLY solid tripod to control any shutter shake and problems with wind...

bwa

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

In the first place, although I am not familiar with Canon gear I would take IS off if the camera is on a tripod.
Assuming focus was correct you are shooting at a long shutter speed of 30 sec. and unless the camera is rock steady it could move during the exposure and the wind is a common offender. The better the tripod the better the results assuming you are using good tripod techniques.
Some people prefer a shutter cable release and others like me go with the self timer. NEVER forget to cover the viewfinder under these conditions because if a light shines on the viewfinder the exposure will not be correct.

Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier

This was my thought also. You have a tower that is up on drum type things on top of a tall building. My guess is that sway comes into play.

bkellyusa Loc: Nashville, TN

I love this site but I still don't know all of the characters involved but I do understand that there are some people who are notorious for this sort of stuff. I really don't know why they bother.

Thank for ll of your help and constructive comments around here. I've long since taken our advice on tripods and ball heads and have recommended you comments to others.

I just looked up your Flickr site today and if I have the right Gene51 you have some beautiful pictures there. With the bird shots you have it is no wonder that you have trained yourself so well at getting the sharpest images possible.

Thanks again for your help around here.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Thanks B for everything! And thanks for stopping by my flickr pages.

twowindsbear

Really?? How is using f/8 or f/10 a 'better contrast setting?' I'm really curious to hear how this works.

TIA

Sharon Bear

Hyperfocal focus and use infinity on your lens. Works wonderfully!

manofhg Loc: Knoxville, TN

The building may have some movement, but the motion evident in the two lights on top of the tower can also be seen in the foreground on most any point of light on the cars for instance. Also, the bird above and to the right of the tower lights has the same direction trail. So I believe there was camera movement of some sort.

jdmarks64

How do I get it sharp? I find Viagra helps.....

Drdale55 Loc: Prescott, AZ

I agree! I read the comment and knew right away who sent it. I really don't understand the degree of negative comments seen on this site. No point in it for sure.