I enjoy making the tools!
Another possibility which I don't think has been mentioned - find a shadow to stand in. And on a more obvious note - don't shoot so directly towards the sun. If the sunlight isn't hitting the lens front glass directly you won't get lens flare. In the posted shot, you probably wouldn't have had to move to the right too far before you got a better angle.
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
This lens is infamous for its horrible flare. There is not much you can do except to try to use your hand to cast a shadow on the lens out of frame.
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
letmedance wrote:
I am thinking that the filter may be creating the flare. The circular color bands at the lower left indicate prismatic separation.
No. This is the characteristic flare of this lens.
Not only a wide angle but any lens if the sun hits it will flare. Flare was a nightmare in the past when lenses did not have the modern coatings they have today.
Only thing to remember to avoid flare, shade the lens with whatever is available avoiding light hitting the front glass.
Leicaflex wrote:
I use a circular polarising filter which can help provided you are at right angle to the sun, which I accept is not always possible.
It won't give an even sky density with extreme wide angles.
romanticf16 wrote:
It won't give an even sky density with extreme wide angles.
For the most part you are correct, but then that is why it is a circular polarizer, so we can adjust the effect of the polar filter.
I have my wife stand beside the camera creating a shade.
TucsonCoyote wrote:
This is also what happens when you are using a camera who's viewfinder doesn't show 100% of the picture which will be captured by the camera.
I haven't checked recently (45 years or so
) but back then only the Nikon F had a 100% viewfinder.
Notice how you can actually see the sun peaking in your shot.....bet you your D7200 wasn't showing that in the viewfinder when you took the picture!?
From Nikon D7200 Tech Specs:
Viewfinder Frame Coverage DX (24x16): 100% Horizontal and 100% Vertical (Approx.)
1.3x (18x12): 97% Horizontal and 97% Vertical (Approx.)
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
Armadillo wrote:
For the most part you are correct, but then that is why it is a circular polarizer, so we can adjust the effect of the polar filter.
The difference between a circular and linear pol filter has nothing to do with the effect. The circular pol has a quarter wave plate after the linear polarizer so as not to affect the metering and AF systems of modern cameras.
The sky-darkening effect of a pol filter depends on the angle from the sun, so banding becomes evident with any type of pol filter on a wide angle lens that includes a lot of sky.
No filter will cure lens flare, but sometimes a filter is dark enough to reduce the amount of internal reflection enough to reduce flare artifacts somewhat.
kymarto wrote:
The difference between a circular and linear pol filter has nothing to do with the effect. The circular pol has a quarter wave plate after the linear polarizer so as not to affect the metering and AF systems of modern cameras.
The sky-darkening effect of a pol filter depends on the angle from the sun, so banding becomes evident with any type of pol filter on a wide angle lens that includes a lot of sky.
No filter will cure lens flare, but sometimes a filter is dark enough to reduce the amount of internal reflection enough to reduce flare artifacts somewhat.
The difference between a circular and linear pol f... (
show quote)
kymarto,
When comparing a linear polar filter with a circular polar the difference is very great, depending on the angle for film plain to sun.
With the linear filter there is only one adjustment, vertical. With the circular filter you can turn the outer filter ring to vary the effectiveness of the filter upon the light coming through the lens.
At 90 degrees to the sun there is a lot of adjustment available with the circular filter. With the linear you have a very limited adjustment in the vertical plain.
If at less than 90 degrees to the sun the circular polar filter can help balance the effect across the field of view, its not perfect, but better than the linear filter. Now, if using a 10mm wide angle lens we might be much better off not using a polar filter at all, and rely on PP later at home.
Michael G
rfmaude41 wrote:
From Nikon D7200 Tech Specs:
Viewfinder Frame Coverage DX (24x16): 100% Horizontal and 100% Vertical (Approx.)
Tech Specs... (Approx.)??.....that's not very Tech like, but OK !
What is the second line about? ....1.3x...etc
Depending on the configuration of the lens hood, this sort of thing is quite common with wide angle lenses, especially those below 20mm. Even with the shade on my 20mm, I have to be exceptionally careful when shooting with the sun to my right or left. Anything less than 90 degrees to the axis of the lens and I get concerned about flare.
--Bob
Wingpilot wrote:
I took some shots with a Tokina 11-16 lens the other day, and discovered that some flaring from the sun, even though Imhad the lens hood on. The sun was at about the 2-3 o'clock position on my right. Can anyone give me some advice on using a lens this wide in this sort of lighting condition? It was mounted on my D7200.
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