using of any flash guns: Is it possible to use other flash units (don't know the trigger voltage) without any damage to my Nikon d7000...

k. v. rajasingham

Is it possible to use other flash units (don't know the trigger voltage) without any damage to my Nikon d7000

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

k. v. rajasingham wrote:

Is it possible to use other flash units (don't know the trigger voltage) without any damage to my Nikon d7000

With non-Nikon speedlights you need to check and find out what the trigger voltage is. Many of the older units, produced before cameras had electronic circuits that are voltage sensitive, had trigger voltages equal to the high voltage on the flash tube. Even those with lower voltages weren't low enough. Some (non-Nikon) cameras cannot tolerate a trigger voltage higher than 6 volts! Nikon's digital cameras are rated at 250 VDC on the trigger contacts.

An example of a flash with a high trigger voltage would be the very popular older Vivitar 283 models. In fact almost any older "potato masher" style flash, or any flash that has only a single contact on the hot shoe mount.

You are probably safe with any current model flash from third party manufacturers like Nissin or Yongnuo.

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

k. v. rajasingham wrote:

Is it possible to use other flash units (don't know the trigger voltage) without any damage to my Nikon d7000

You can use most such flashes OFF-CAMERA with remote triggers, as long as such triggers do not have sophisticated electronics. Years ago, there were small slave triggers that fired as a result of the light from a shoe-mounted flash. If I wasn't getting so old, I'd know the proper terminology and maybe even brands. However, be aware that such flash/trigger combinations work only with manual flash mode and won't work with pre-flash (red-eye) enabled flashes.

If I have time, I'll try to dig up some info and update this post.

UPDATE: All I can dig up was the fact that they were simple optical slaves; I believe mine were made by Wein. Wein did make a dedicated optical slave for the Vivitar 283/285 models because of the extremely high trigger voltages on one of the models; although only the 283 had dangerous voltages (s high as 600V), consumers would often confuse the models.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Yes Wein makes them, but they cost 40-50$. Why when for $10 you can get a SYK in many flavors for the Nikon/Canon/etc or even the special mounts like Minlolta/Sony. There is one that has a delay so as to ignore preflash (focus flash) $16. Of course many UHH people insist that more expensive is better.... bull.

you tube.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZbjYL-TzNk
Ebay.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seagull-SYK-5-Wireless-Remote-Flash-Slave-Trigger-/270721456475?hash=item3f0841995b:g:wlUAAOxyepRRsdzP

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

dpullum wrote:

Yes Wein makes them, but they cost 40-50$. Why whe... (show quote)

It may not be bull in this case. See http://dpanswers.com/content/optical_flash.php

The Seagull optical triggers may not be able to handle high trigger voltages, while the Wein units are specified for that. At least in some cases the Wein units are more sensitive, triggering at longer ranges too. Most interesting is that neither of them may work at all with some flash units!

I can't vouch for any of that, as the only optical triggers I've used were the noname $7.95 each variety! :-)

BebuLamar

If you have to use a Wein unit that cost $40-50 then it's better not to use the flash. Rarely you find any of those flash that's worth $50.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

The answer is yes. What you need is a Paramount cord that will dampen the trigger voltage. Contact them and tell them the flash unit and your Norman D7200. I have used their cords on my Norman Flash Units that would ruin sensitive shutters on digital cameras. I have also used a Flash Wizard as a triggering device. Another option but expensive.

http://www.paramountcords.com/product-category/sync-cords/

k. v. rajasingham wrote:

Is it possible to use other flash units (don't know the trigger voltage) without any damage to my Nikon d7000

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

I have a Sunpak Softlite 1600A flash that allegedly has a trigger voltage of 190V. My Nikons supposedly are rated to 250V.

I'm reluctant to use it even though it is within the limits for fear of doing harm over time to the circuitry.

Question to the electronics wizards: Are my fears justified?

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

Yes, because a spike in voltage, could possibly damage the electronics. 60V is not a comfortable margin for me. If you are a risk taker and don't mind the expense of replacing the circuitry, go for it.

joer wrote:

I have a Sunpak Softlite 1600A flash that allegedly has a trigger voltage of 190V. My Nikons supposedly are rated to 250V.

I'm reluctant to use it even though it is within the limits for fear of doing harm over time to the circuitry.

Question to the electronics wizards: Are my fears justified?

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

PixelStan77 wrote:

Yes, because a spike in voltage, could possibly damage the electronics. 60V is not a comfortable margin for me. If you are a risk taker and don't mind the expense of replacing the circuitry, go for it.

I just measured the voltage on the flash and it is 140V but I'm still not that comfortable with the margin.
OTOH I have my doubts that a spike could go beyond the charge capacitor. When firing the voltage drops not increases. I have measured this also, but I'm not much on the theory end of it.

If I was still working I could consult my electronics engineers. What are the odds?

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

joer wrote:

I just measured the voltage on the flash and it is 140V but I'm still not that comfortable with the margin.
OTOH I have my doubts that a spike could go beyond the charge capacitor. When firing the voltage drops not increases. I have measured this also, but I'm not much on the theory end of it.

If I was still working I could consult my electronics engineers. What are the odds?

It is probably safe enough. Assuming you used a very high impedance voltmeter or scope to measure the voltage.

Another problem is any induced negative swing on a voltage spike. They do not tolerate any negative voltage. Voltage spikes, and the levels they attain, can have more to do with inductive reactance than the source voltage. That's a tough one to predict too, because a coiled up 3 foot cord will usually reduce the peak surge, but on some odd circumstance might cause it to be higher...

But consider that Nikon says it is rated for 250 VDC, and that probably means the design target is actually 375 VDC.

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

Apaflo wrote:

It is probably safe enough. Assuming you used a v... (show quote)

I used a Simpson 260 meter (analog) which was the electrician's standard before digital.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

joer wrote:

I used a Simpson 260 meter (analog) which was the electrician's standard before digital.

Fast enough for a constant voltage (I have a 260 also), but not nearly responsive enough to measure the peak. To measure accurately, you need a digital storage scope set to single shot mode, then you can see the entire waveform, both positive and negative peaks. Many modern DVMs have a max mode, but without knowing the response/settling time, you can't be sure of its accuracy for a pulse.

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

TriX wrote:

Fast enough for a constant voltage (I have a 260 also), but not nearly responsive enough to measure the peak. To measure accurately, you need a digital storage scope set to single shot mode, then you can see the entire waveform, both positive and negative peaks. Many modern DVMs have a max mode, but without knowing the response/settling time, you can't be sure of its accuracy for a pulse.

Thanks TriX. What would you do in my situation?

I apologize for hijacking the thread.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Personally, I would not risk it on my camera unless I could see the camera schematic. If there are really relay contacts, then I'd probably be OK, but if the camera uses a semiconductor device (like an SCR, Triac or some other PN junction device) to trigger the flash, I just wouldn't risk it. BTW, the 260 is a great meter - when I want to know if an AC circuit is really active before I work on it, I don't trust my DVM. I pull out the 260.