Macro Bellows arrived today
Oct 16, 2015 17:44:22 #
Dang if this don't beat the heck out using tubes - still the reversed prime 50mm 1:1.8 - I think I'm going to have fun with this setup.
today no cropping or PP
yesterday with right & left cropped
Oct 16, 2015 17:52:41 #
Mind your focus. DoF is extremely shallow. What aperture, and what length bellows used?
You might consider mounting a short steel metric ruler to bellows side, for reference on bellows length.
You might consider mounting a short steel metric ruler to bellows side, for reference on bellows length.
Oct 16, 2015 18:20:52 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
Yes - I noticed the shallow DOF but need to check the info you mentioned - lots more to learn now that I have found some satisfaction in my efforts. I may mount my 4 way rail under the bellows for horizontal movement as I don't want to be moving my tripod at all in the final set ups.Mind your focus. DoF is extremely shallow. What aperture, and what length bellows used?
You might consider mounting a short steel metric ruler to bellows side, for reference on bellows length.
You might consider mounting a short steel metric ruler to bellows side, for reference on bellows length.
Oct 16, 2015 22:57:33 #
Harvey wrote:
I think the focusing rail along with a Hoodman to assist with critical focus will helpI may mount my 4 way rail under the bellows for horizontal movement as I don't want to be moving my tripod at all in the final set ups.
Oct 17, 2015 02:52:12 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Yes a hoodman and me remembering to wear my glasses LOLI think the focusing rail along with a Hoodman to assist with critical focus will help
Oct 17, 2015 10:58:44 #
If you are doing mostly studio work, then why not tether? Much easier to focus while tethered.
Also, there is no benefit in having effective aperture larger than the Diffraction Limited Aperture (DLA) of your camera, unless shallow DOF is part of your artistic goal. What aperture are you using? And what camera?
I use bellows almost exclusively in my studio work.
Also, there is no benefit in having effective aperture larger than the Diffraction Limited Aperture (DLA) of your camera, unless shallow DOF is part of your artistic goal. What aperture are you using? And what camera?
I use bellows almost exclusively in my studio work.
Oct 17, 2015 13:21:45 #
Calculating Diffraction Limit for any camera, based on selected aperture of attached lens:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm (halfway down article, click on "show advanced" ).
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm (halfway down article, click on "show advanced" ).
Oct 17, 2015 13:45:04 #
Note that the DLA is not based on the aperture of the lens, only on the size of the pixels. The Cambridge calculator defaults for some reason to a print-based criteria. If you go "advanced" with the calculator, you can check the "set circle of confusion based on pixels" and also enter the actual number of MP for your camera. This will give you a much more accurate estimate of the true DLA.
Also be careful about interpreting the aperture setting used. It is the effective aperture that matters, not the nominal (infinity focus) aperture. This is especially important for True Macro applications. The effective aperture is Feff = Finf*(M+1). If you are at 1:1 magnification, the Feff is Finf*2. So if the Cambridge calculator tells you to set your aperture to f/8, you actually need to set it to f/4 for 1:1.
Also be careful about interpreting the aperture setting used. It is the effective aperture that matters, not the nominal (infinity focus) aperture. This is especially important for True Macro applications. The effective aperture is Feff = Finf*(M+1). If you are at 1:1 magnification, the Feff is Finf*2. So if the Cambridge calculator tells you to set your aperture to f/8, you actually need to set it to f/4 for 1:1.
Oct 17, 2015 14:08:09 #
Nikonian72 wrote:
Thanks for this info- I seem to be setting my lens at too large an aperture: f/1.8. Calculating Diffraction Limit for any camera, based on selected aperture of attached lens:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm (halfway down article, click on "show advanced" ).
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm (halfway down article, click on "show advanced" ).
I will try f/8 and f/11.
Oct 17, 2015 14:22:28 #
rmpsrpms wrote:
Thanks for your post BUT way too tec. for me- I have not a clue of what you are trying to tell me. I am using a Canon xTi 400D with a reversed FD prime 50mm f/1.8 (set this lens wide open in these shots but will now close it up to f/4 and work down to f/11Note that the DLA is not based on the aperture of ... (show quote)
You mention "word tethered" are you referring to remote shutter? I am using 2 sec self right now.
I am not shooting art - I just want to be able to shoot some true macro of very small items and detail.
Thanks again for you effort to help me.
Oct 17, 2015 14:25:25 #
Harvey...OK, turns out your XTi is one generation too old to tether, ie connect to a computer so you can view what your camera is seeing on the computer screen, adjust settings, and snap the shot with your mouse. The XS and XSi were first Canons that have this feature.
Here is a link to a review page that shows a comparison between all Canon cameras, and includes the DLA.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-Rebel-T2i-550D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx
The DLA of your XTi is f/9.1. But you can usually push it a bit smaller and still get full sharpness. If you're around 1:1 magnification, then I'd recommend using f/5.6 with your camera. This will be effective f11.2, which is just a bit into diffraction territory.
So bottom line, try f/5.6 and your depth of field should improve without losing any sharpness. 2-sec delay should work well.
Here is a link to a review page that shows a comparison between all Canon cameras, and includes the DLA.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-Rebel-T2i-550D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx
The DLA of your XTi is f/9.1. But you can usually push it a bit smaller and still get full sharpness. If you're around 1:1 magnification, then I'd recommend using f/5.6 with your camera. This will be effective f11.2, which is just a bit into diffraction territory.
So bottom line, try f/5.6 and your depth of field should improve without losing any sharpness. 2-sec delay should work well.
Oct 17, 2015 14:37:38 #
rmpsrpms wrote:
Thanks Ray why not PM me so we can chat.So bottom line, try f/5.6 and your depth of field should improve without losing any sharpness. 2-sec delay should work well.
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