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Do I need extension tubes for serious macro work?
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May 19, 2015 17:52:09   #
Greenguy33 Loc: Rhode Island
 
I hope to be doing some insect/butterfly macro, along with mostly flower macro work. Do I need extension tubes for serious macro work? I am fairly new to macro. I am enjoying focus stacking in Photoshop. It is addictive! :thumbup: :lol: :thumbup:

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May 19, 2015 17:56:21   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
It would be nice - but a bellows would be nicer IMO.

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May 19, 2015 18:32:01   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
To start, I strongly suggest that you first become comfortable with true 1:1 macro, using just your Nikkor 200-mm lens. You will find the narrow DoF at Minimum Focusing Distance quite a challenge to master. Adding extension tubes to any lens increases the magnification beyond 1:1, and also shortens the Minimum Working Distance as well as decreases the DoF.

Eventually, Auto-extension tubes are a good idea, as they can be easily used in the field as well as table-top macro studio set-up. Bellows do NOT usually allow electronic connections for either auto-aperture nor auto-focus, as do auto extension tubes.

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May 19, 2015 18:39:43   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
You list a Nikon D800, a Nikkor 200mm macro lens, and a Yongnuo 568EX speedlight. You have 90% of a dynamite field macro set-up! You are lacking just a few ancillary items (bracket, ball joint, hotshoe cord, softbox) found here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-5.html#2585532

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May 19, 2015 18:55:11   #
Greenguy33 Loc: Rhode Island
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
To start, I strongly suggest that you first become comfortable with true 1:1 macro, using just your Nikkor 200-mm lens. You will find the narrow DoF at Minimum Focusing Distance quite a challenge to master. Adding extension tubes to any lens increases the magnification beyond 1:1, and also shortens the Minimum Working Distance as well as decreases the DoF.
Eventually, Auto-extension tubes are a good idea, as they can be easily used in the field as well as table-top macro studio set-up. Bellows do NOT usually allow electronic connections for either auto-aperture nor auto-focus, as do auto extension tubes.
To start, I strongly suggest that you first become... (show quote)
Thanks Nikonian72!

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May 20, 2015 03:05:48   #
Macronaut Loc: Redondo Beach,Ca.
 
imagemeister wrote:
It would be nice - but a bellows would be nicer IMO.
Eventually perhaps. Starting where Douglass suggested is what I would recommend too. Just keeping a 200mm lens steady handheld, is challenge enough in the beginning :wink: Bellows may not be as practical as tubes, in the field.

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May 20, 2015 06:44:57   #
Greenguy33 Loc: Rhode Island
 
Flyextreme wrote:
Eventually perhaps. Starting where Douglass suggested is what I would recommend too. Just keeping a 200mm lens steady handheld, is challenge enough in the beginning :wink: Bellows may not be as practical as tubes, in the field.
thanks Flyextreme!

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May 20, 2015 10:57:43   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
Auto tubes are nice, but as long as the tubes hold the aperture open until you trip the shutter, that's all you need. Most "true" macro is shot using manual focus anyway. You should be using additional light sources anyway & tubes will reduce the amount of light falling on the sensor. The additional lighting makes up for that, allowing you to stop down for more DoF. As for using the 200mm lens, others are correct in that the longer focal lengths can be a bear to use in the field, especially on mobile subjects & adding a tube magnifies those problems.

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Jun 10, 2020 18:50:25   #
Silverrails
 
Screamin Scott wrote:
Auto tubes are nice, but as long as the tubes hold the aperture open until you trip the shutter, that's all you need. Most "true" macro is shot using manual focus anyway. You should be using additional light sources anyway & tubes will reduce the amount of light falling on the sensor. The additional lighting makes up for that, allowing you to stop down for more DoF. As for using the 200mm lens, others are correct in that the longer focal lengths can be a bear to use in the field, especially on mobile subjects & adding a tube magnifies those problems.
Auto tubes are nice, but as long as the tubes hold... (show quote)


I plan on Kenko Extension Tubes, set of 3, and possibly a Ring Light on the front of my lens. Please provide me with any other advice or suggestions on my future Nikon D3300 Macro Photography. I just purchased a set of 4 lens diopter glass magnification lens, they were used at B&H for $10.59, not sure yet if they will be useful for Macro Photography as they were advertised.

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Jun 10, 2020 19:11:23   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
Macronaut wrote:
Eventually perhaps. Starting where Douglass suggested is what I would recommend too. Just keeping a 200mm lens steady handheld, is challenge enough in the beginning :wink: Bellows may not be as practical as tubes, in the field.


They may be less practical - IN the field - but for SERIOUS macro work, bellows are far more versatile and have fewer internal reflection problems........and where does the OP talk about 200mm macro ???

Initially, I did not see this was in the "true macro" area, - had I known that I would not have bothered to comment
.

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Jun 11, 2020 22:53:54   #
Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI
 
A 200mm macro is pretty 'serious' already. But if the OP wants more power, then sure, there are things you can do to bring in a closer working distance. A bellows seems awkward for a 200mm lens. A short prime lens would be more suitable with a bellows, and that could work great. But its a big change in your rig and a fine macro lens sits unused.

Sticking with the rig you have, simple mods would be electronic extension tubes. But if I recall correctly extension tubes give limited increases in mag with a longer lens. A short lens on extension tubes really gets you close so a greater increase in mag.
The most convenient mod would be good diopters on the 200mm macro. A different poster (Silverrails) mentioned having inexpensive diopters. As a rule, cheap diopters in the price range mentioned don't give good IQ. But diopters like the Raynox 150 or 250 lenses are examples of good diopters, and their cost is not prohibitive. Easy on. Easy off. Do a search for those on Flickr, and I think you will be impressed.

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Jun 12, 2020 10:23:46   #
tinusbum Loc: east texas
 
you dont need tubes for flowers and butterflies,but if you start shooting insects in the field i would say yes.they served me well

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Jun 12, 2020 14:17:51   #
Silverrails
 
I have read that with the extension tubes I will lose light on my subject due to the long length between the sensor and the Lens. So, I have been looking at a variety of "Ring Lights" to brighten up my subject. Is this a recommended way for adding light in Macro Photography? Any recommendations with be appreciated. Thanks.

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Jun 12, 2020 14:23:01   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
Silverrails wrote:
I have read that with the extension tubes I will lose light on my subject due to the long length between the sensor and the Lens. So, I have been looking at a variety of "Ring Lights" to brighten up my subject. Is this a recommended way for adding light in Macro Photography? Any recommendations with be appreciated. Thanks.

I use either a ring/ point light or a speed light equipped with a diffuser for my macro (my niche). The one major drawback is reflections on shiny subjects. The pluses are that the brief duration of the flash stops all motion, be it my own or my subjects, and it allows me to stop down the aperture which increases the depth of field ( pitfifully shallow as it is) If you go the ring light route, I’d stay away from most LED units as they are a bit underpowered.

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Jun 12, 2020 17:58:08   #
Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI
 
Constant lights can indeed be limiting for stopping motion for handheld or for moving subjects. For still photography maybe the strength of light won't matter so much. Stacking often uses constant light sources rather than flash, as that uses wider apertures and one needs very consistent exposures from frame to frame.
Ring light illumination can be so uniform that it removes shadow details. Ring lights leave circular highlights for extra shiny subjects. Still, people like them and there must be reasons for it.

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