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Oct 9, 2013 12:37:16   #
Wendy2 Loc: California
 
country wrote:
so a lower iso tends to over expose?


Not necessarily. It depends on how much light there is. Look at Jeep Daddy's explanation. I think it will help you understand it more. You would use higher ISO's in lower light situations, such as a museum, or a dark room. BUT the higher the ISO, the more noise you will get.

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Oct 9, 2013 12:56:19   #
country Loc: back woods
 
Wendy2 wrote:
Not necessarily. It depends on how much light there is. Look at Jeep Daddy's explanation. I think it will help you understand it more. You would use higher ISO's in lower light situations, such as a museum, or a dark room. BUT the higher the ISO, the more noise you will get.


ok, thanks, im starting to get, just need to practice more.. I think having iso on auto was one of my problems...

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Oct 9, 2013 12:57:21   #
rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA
 
One of the images was shot at ISO 100, which is good. But the other was shot at ISO 6400. For this kind of image, there is little reason for such a high ISO setting. Naturally 6400 will result in a bit of noise. Even if you were attempting to freeze some kind of movement within the image, opening the aperture a little more instead of turning up the ISO to a high value would have been more sensible I think.

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Oct 9, 2013 12:58:19   #
Pentony Loc: Earth Traveller
 
country wrote:
took these two photos, but changed settings... one is ok, the other not so.. im trying to learn to use manual more, although I did leave iso on auto.. the one that is not so sharp and has noise( I think), is that because the iso is much higher ?.. is it better to have iso as low as possible ?.. the only change I made was shutter speed, which changed iso.. any advice will be appreciated as I am still a work in progress... thanks...


You don't state your ISO settings nor your aperture and shutter speed settings which may make our responses somewhat of a guess. Also stating your camera name and model and lens used may have further helped in our critiquing your photos.

ISO was high? Why? This is a daylight shot. ISO of 100 or 200 should have been more than sufficient.

As for shutter speed controlling ISO? Maybe in shutter priority mode but not in manual mode.

As for ISO, in almost all photographic situations it is best to use the lowest possible ISO to minimize noise (grain). Sometimes this can not be done mainly because of the lack of lighting.

Go back to your camera's manual and consider purchasing Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure." It cost about $26.00 and is carried by most book sellers and can be ordered on line. It's well worth owning.

That book will further expand your knowledge of the photographic triangle; aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

I've been photographing well over forty years, sometimes getting paid handsomely and I still make some mistakes.

I've owned "Understanding Photography" for a little over two years and wish I had had it a long time ago. Although I've accumulated several photographic books throughout the decades, this one so far is my best go to book.

Several other UHH-ers also recommend this book.

One of the things which digital photography does is spoils us. We can take many, many pictures just to get that one good photo.

Where as in film days we learned how to get the best shot while taking one, two or three photos so as not wasting film. So we learned, we studied, we talked to others and we read. Now most of us film guys who are doing digital don't need to take many shots just to get that one best photo.

However you have an advantage. Get that book and keep taking pictures. By the way, nice shots.

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Oct 9, 2013 13:01:27   #
country Loc: back woods
 
rook2c4 wrote:
One of the images was shot at ISO 100, which is good. But the other was shot at ISO 6400. For this kind of image, there is little reason for such a high ISO setting. Naturally 6400 will result in a bit of noise. Even if you were attempting to freeze some kind of movement within the image, opening the aperture a little more instead of turning up the ISO to a high value would have been more sensible I think.


I think youre right, thanks...

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Oct 9, 2013 13:15:01   #
country Loc: back woods
 
Pentony wrote:
You don't state your ISO settings nor your aperture and shutter speed settings which may make our responses somewhat of a guess. Also stating your camera name and model and lens used may have further helped in our critiquing your photos.

ISO was high? Why? This is a daylight shot. ISO of 100 or 200 should have been more than sufficient.

As for shutter speed controlling ISO? Maybe in shutter priority mode but not in manual mode.

As for ISO, in almost all photographic situations it is best to use the lowest possible ISO to minimize noise (grain). Sometimes this can not be done mainly because of the lack of lighting.

Go back to your camera's manual and consider purchasing Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure." It cost about $26.00 and is carried by most book sellers and can be ordered on line. It's well worth owning.

That book will further expand your knowledge of the photographic triangle; aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

I've been photographing well over forty years, sometimes getting paid handsomely and I still make some mistakes.

I've owned "Understanding Photography" for a little over two years and wish I had had it a long time ago. Although I've accumulated several photographic books throughout the decades, this one so far is my best go to book.

Several other UHH-ers also recommend this book.

One of the things which digital photography does is spoils us. We can take many, many pictures just to get that one good photo.

Where as in film days we learned how to get the best shot while taking one, two or three photos so as not wasting film. So we learned, we studied, we talked to others and we read. Now most of us film guys who are doing digital don't need to take many shots just to get that one best photo.

However you have an advantage. Get that book and keep taking pictures. By the way, nice shots.
You don't state your ISO settings nor your apertur... (show quote)


sorry, I guess I thought everybody could read the exif.. Nikon d7000 with a tokina 11-16 lens.. yes, iso changed when shutter speed or aperture changed, because I had iso on auto, even though camera mode was in maual... that was obviously one of the problems... I actually got that book about 2 days ago... only half way thru 2nd chapter... need to finish reading it... thanks for your help...

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Oct 9, 2013 13:18:24   #
Searcher Loc: Kent, England
 
Your image with the ISO of 100 has more than two stops of exposure greater than the image with ISO 6400

1 1/4000 sec at f/16 at ISO 6400
2 1/5th sec at f/16 at ISO 100
If the ISO is halved, the aperture is kept at f/16 then the shutter speed is doubled:

1/4000 at 6400
1/2000 at 3200
1/1000 at 1600
1/500 at 800
1/250 at 400
1/125 at 200
1/60th at 100 (This should have been where it stopped to keep the same exposure)
1/30 at 100 (1 stop over)
1/15 at 100 (2 stops over)
1/5 at 100 (2 2/3rd stops over)

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Oct 9, 2013 13:29:58   #
country Loc: back woods
 
Searcher wrote:
Your image with the ISO of 100 has more than two stops of exposure greater than the image with ISO 6400

1 1/4000 sec at f/16 at ISO 6400
2 1/5th sec at f/16 at ISO 100
If the ISO is halved, the aperture is kept at f/16 then the shutter speed is doubled:

1/4000 at 6400
1/2000 at 3200
1/1000 at 1600
1/500 at 800
1/250 at 400
1/125 at 200
1/60th at 100 (This should have been where it stopped to keep the same exposure)
1/30 at 100 (1 stop over)
1/15 at 100 (2 stops over)
1/5 at 100 (2 2/3rd stops over)
Your image with the ISO of 100 has more than two ... (show quote)


thanks, that is very helpful... that's why even though its the sharper image, its blown out.. needed a faster shutter speed... and I remember when I was setting camera, there were several stops that it showed still on the center mark of exposure... its starting to make sense...

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Oct 9, 2013 18:30:05   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
country wrote:
...

What you really need to do is to control your ISO by either setting it on manual mode or give it a maximum value (Nikon allows this).

When shooting anything you need to learn the relation between the triangle of doom summits.
ISO (noise - grain in silver media)
Aperture value (field of sharpness)
Speed (Motion control)

You cannot set one w/o modifying the other so it is always a trade off.

The pictures presented, as many point out, are over-exposed in the light areas. Before long you will realize that you must expose for what is important, not what is around your subject. Once you do that, you can start worrying about using the surroundings to make your subject pop using exposure and composition, MAINLY composition.

Once you start playing with exposure you will quickly say: This is not what I saw. At that moment you will need to question your choice of file format and use the best of the ones offered by your Nikon. Once you do that you will need to relearn a bit about color depth and learn where most of the hidden the data really lies (hint: dark areas) so you will then change your way of exposing and go for the highlight (within reason).

But then again, when you are there you will not need any advice and giving it. This will happen soon enough.

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Oct 9, 2013 19:27:09   #
rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA
 
When in doubt (about exposure), bracket. Later you can examine closely each shot and choose the image that has the best exposure.

Although this is more of a slide film shooting technique, exposure bracketing can be useful for digital as well. Even when using my digital camera, I will often take multiple shots of the scene at slightly different exposures if the lighting situation is complex. Bracketing can also help you learn why what worked and what didn't work, and how to use your meter and select your exposure better next time.

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Oct 9, 2013 20:23:05   #
mdorn Loc: Portland, OR
 
country wrote:
took these two photos, but changed settings... one is ok, the other not so.. im trying to learn to use manual more, although I did leave iso on auto.. the one that is not so sharp and has noise( I think), is that because the iso is much higher ?.. is it better to have iso as low as possible ?.. the only change I made was shutter speed, which changed iso.. any advice will be appreciated as I am still a work in progress... thanks...


I think you've gotten some good help so far. Not sure I can offer anymore technical help, but I will say that to improve this photo, you might want to consider shooting at a different time of day. The sun and shade contrast is not your friend. Before sunrise or after sunset would really help this photo a lot. Keep that ISO at 100-200 and use a tripod if needed.

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Oct 9, 2013 20:58:48   #
birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania
 
You have been given a lot of good advice regarding camera settings but I think you all have missed the point in this case. What we should be asking is: "Why is the photo overexposed?"

In the case of the photo shot at 1/5, f/16 the ISO needed to be lower than 100. But that is as low as the D7100 can go. So you were overexposed and there may have been some kind of warning in the viewfinder to tell you that.

In the case of the photo shot at 1/4000, f/16, ISO 6400 the camera should have selected a lower ISO. So I am asking you how did you meter for that picture? What metering mode was the camera in? Spot? Matrix? Center Weighted Average? Each of these modes can result in slightly different meter readings. The use of Auto ISO is not the problem here as the proper use of the meter would still have resulted in correct exposure. Yes, your choice of aperture and shutter speed forced the camera to use a high ISO, but, because of incorrect metering the ISO was set too high.

Camera light meters are easily fooled when we use an inappropriate metering mode for the situation or take our reading from the wrong part of the picture. Brian Peterson's book, as has been mentioned, is a very good reference to help you sort these things out.

And, as Brian always says: "YOU keep shooting!"

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Oct 9, 2013 21:10:20   #
mdorn Loc: Portland, OR
 
birdpix wrote:
You have been given a lot of good advice regarding camera settings but I think you all have missed the point in this case. What we should be asking is: "Why is the photo overexposed?"

In the case of the photo shot at 1/5, f/16 the ISO needed to be lower than 100. But that is as low as the D7100 can go. So you were overexposed and there may have been some kind of warning in the viewfinder to tell you that.

In the case of the photo shot at 1/4000, f/16, ISO 6400 the camera should have selected a lower ISO. So I am asking you how did you meter for that picture? What metering mode was the camera in? Spot? Matrix? Center Weighted Average? Each of these modes can result in slightly different meter readings. The use of Auto ISO is not the problem here as the proper use of the meter would still have resulted in correct exposure. Yes, your choice of aperture and shutter speed forced the camera to use a high ISO, but, because of incorrect metering the ISO was set too high.

Camera light meters are easily fooled when we use an inappropriate metering mode for the situation or take our reading from the wrong part of the picture. Brian Peterson's book, as has been mentioned, is a very good reference to help you sort these things out.

And, as Brian always says: "YOU keep shooting!"
You have been given a lot of good advice regarding... (show quote)


:thumbup: One small correction... Bryan spells his name with a "Y". :-)

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Oct 9, 2013 23:45:57   #
country Loc: back woods
 
birdpix wrote:
You have been given a lot of good advice regarding camera settings but I think you all have missed the point in this case. What we should be asking is: "Why is the photo overexposed?"

In the case of the photo shot at 1/5, f/16 the ISO needed to be lower than 100. But that is as low as the D7100 can go. So you were overexposed and there may have been some kind of warning in the viewfinder to tell you that.

In the case of the photo shot at 1/4000, f/16, ISO 6400 the camera should have selected a lower ISO. So I am asking you how did you meter for that picture? What metering mode was the camera in? Spot? Matrix? Center Weighted Average? Each of these modes can result in slightly different meter readings. The use of Auto ISO is not the problem here as the proper use of the meter would still have resulted in correct exposure. Yes, your choice of aperture and shutter speed forced the camera to use a high ISO, but, because of incorrect metering the ISO was set too high.

Camera light meters are easily fooled when we use an inappropriate metering mode for the situation or take our reading from the wrong part of the picture. Brian Peterson's book, as has been mentioned, is a very good reference to help you sort these things out.

And, as Brian always says: "YOU keep shooting!"
You have been given a lot of good advice regarding... (show quote)


I cannot tell you what metering mode I was in because im not sure what you mean by that... I look at the bars in the view finder and keep it in the center, if that's what you mean... guess I need to get to that part in bryans book... thanks for your help...

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Oct 9, 2013 23:51:43   #
country Loc: back woods
 
mdorn wrote:
I think you've gotten some good help so far. Not sure I can offer anymore technical help, but I will say that to improve this photo, you might want to consider shooting at a different time of day. The sun and shade contrast is not your friend. Before sunrise or after sunset would really help this photo a lot. Keep that ISO at 100-200 and use a tripod if needed.


yea, I know it was a bad time of day, around 1:00pm, but these days I have to go shooting when I get the chance... time is very limited between work and family... and I did use a tripod... thanks for your input, all help is appreciated and taken into consideration...

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